Lighting a 58 for potential SPS

[TomH]

Hi all,

I just ordered my 58 gal Oceanic (36x18x2?) to replace my 30 gal Jaubert "experiment," and I was looking for lighting ideas. Right now I have a 175 W MH 10k and two 28 W PC actinics that I can use (leftover from the 30), but I was considering upgrading the PCs to a pair of 96 W actinics, with an eye to keeping SPS and Tridacnas in the future. Is this overkill? Should (could) I keep things cool and simple with the PCs (two 96s and two 28s) only? Curious to hear from the experts.


Thanks, in advance, for your help.
Tom

 

[Anonymous]

No, this is not overkill.

For keeping small polyp stony corals, to the best of my knowledge you will need metal halide. You might find that the one may not be enough, but I don't see why you can't keep the SPS's closest to that and keeping other stuff (be careful with leathers and LPS's, though) in another area. Also, recommend Eric Bornemann's book on corals.

Hope this helps!

 

[Anonymous]

Oh yeah, don't forget that actinics are for aesthetics only, not necessary for growth and all.

 

[Unarce]

Actinics really add to that crisp look, but they do benefit some of the deeper inverts like soft corals in terms of photosynthesis. Blue is the main color spectrum that can reach those depths.

If you plan to go SPS/Clams, you really can't overkill. Although watts per gallon is a horrible rule of thumb, I've heard of people going 18 wpg with no ill effects. It would really depend on the depth of your tank. My tank's not very deep, so I've been able to raise clams and SPS corals under 2 96watt PC's with excellent results. I have a 14 hour photoperiod now, so my pieces all have the same coloration as they did under HQI's at the LFS. I've considered switching to MH/HQI but heat would be a problem for small tanks, and my mortgage won't allow me to spend double for a chiller.

Keep in mind that SPS/Clams are naturally found at the upper part of the reef. They will do much better under lower kelvin lighting like 6500 to 7100 which simulates high noon. It's less attractive than 10k, but your SPS/Clams will require the full spectrum that's a bit more red/yellow/green. Just supplement with actinics to improve the appearance.

 

[Anonymous]

However, remember that high noon is only such for a relatively short period of time when seeking to duplicate lighting conditions. Also, the tropics are rarely a cloud-free area. Yes, 420nm specifically is the strongest wavelength, and as such penetrates the deepest into the water column, however, good peaks in this wavelength are normally met via typical reef-specific lighting. Be very careful not to allow high red peaks.

 

[Unarce]

Correct, high red peaks would create unwanted algae growth. This is why you won't find many bulbs below 5000k. If you want optimal growth and in the future, delve into raising frags, you'll definitely want to go with a lower kelvin.

It's also a good idea to measure by lumens as opposed to watts. Here's a small but informative article on lighting.

http://www.thereefweb.com/lighting.htm

 

[TomH]

Thanks for the assistance.
The replies have got me thinking, though.

I could likely add another 175 W MH (ok -- I guess about 14000 lumens as per the above-reference article) for about the same price as the two 96 W PCs. Would I be better off using two 175 MH (at 6500 K) plus the two 28 W actinic PCs? Would such a setup provide sufficient blue-spectrum lighting?

 

[Unarce]

I think that would be ideal for an SPS/Clam set-up. Good luck.

 

[Anonymous]

I agree. Again, as mentioned before, most reef-appropriate lighting tends to have good peaks in the blue end of the spectrum (IIRC, once we get into the 400nm range we're talking UV, beyond visible light). I think you'd do just fine for SPS.

 

[wombat1]

I use a 250W 6500K Iwasaki bulb on my tank. There's no other type of light. SPS and clams grow great. If you can get an SPS coral like Montipora or a clam like T. derasa they will grow just fine under 96W PCs, although you probably want to put them at the top of the tank. I'd save my money and stick with what I have.

 

[LA-Lawman]

i have two 14k 175w hamtilons... 2-6500k and 2-7100k blue PC's

on a 90g 48x18x24

I also had a 175w 10k and 2 -55w 7100k's on a 40g 36x18x15 (i think) those are the measurments

I never really liked the WPG rule of thumb....

but if you have a tall tank u need the punching power of the halides to get to the bottom....

 

[Anonymous]

I have a 58 that will eventually be an SPS tank.

I am using a 250W hqi 10K DE PFO pendant in a canopy with 2x95W VHO's Actinic.

I absolutey love the color and brightness.
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[Pineapple House]

I personally wouldn't keep any Small Polyp Scleractinians under anything but metal halides. They simply do not do as well when placed under Power Compacts or VHO's, as they would under metal halides. Why should we put any coral under anything but the best?

I personally think you would be much better off using 2x 250wt halides, instead of 2x 175wt halides. The 175wt halides will work fine, but, using 2x 250wt halides would be better. 2x 250wt 10,000k Ushio's and 2x 36" "03" PC's/VHO's would be awesome for that setup. Another option may include using 2x 250wt 6,500k Iwasaki's with 2-4x "03" PC's/VHO's. I also doubt that the colour of the bulb plays an important role in the growth of Small Polyp Scleractinians. Most of the growth comes from the P.A.R. ratings of the bulb as well as the intensity.

If you're looking into ordering your lighting online, I would strongly suggest using www.hellolights.com. They have great prices, very wide choices on various lighting, and exelent service. I've ordered from them many times and have never been disapointed. www.reeffanatic.com is another great place to go, as is www.marinedepot.com

Take Care,
Graham

 

[TomH]

Ok -- That settles it!

Well I finally made my decision and ordered an additional 175 W MH. That will give me the two 175 W 10k MH and two 28 W 6700K PCs over a 36 1/2 x 18 1/2 x21 1/2 tank. The tank and stand should be here in early May, the lighting much sooner.

I'm so psyched about getting this thing going that I already purchased 100 lb of Southdown for the DSB, and picked up a 5.5 gal glass tank for the refugium. Does anyone have any experiences with DIY sumps? I'm thinking large rubermaid container -- If not, I've found some polytanks online, but I'd like to keep it simple.

Thanks for the help.

Tom

 

[Anonymous]

I used a 20G high tank. I am not running a fuge as of now. I just have a skimmer and baffles in the sump. I had to use filter floss to stop the bubbles since I am using a mag 9 for my return.

I will be adding a closed loop next month for more flow for the eventual SPS corals.

I am using approximately 80lbs of southdown and 80lbs of LR.

Let me know if you need any more info.
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