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sabellafella

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staten island
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Heres that wwc 500? acro again. Kinda looks like those tierra del fuego acros.
 

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sabellafella

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staten island
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This is the second time in 3 years my tank got infested with aiptasia. As a few of you guys know, ive been breeding berghia nudibranchs for 2 years now. I really dont give them enuff credit for the work they do, one of the best investments so far for me in this hobby. I will be exclusively selling these at RAP - If anyone wants to buy them pm me 10$ each for any size you want 1/2 to 1 1/2 inch. Anyway, Heres a photo i took at night with a flashlight of these creatures in their natural habitat lol
 

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Location
GARDEN CITY
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This is the second time in 3 years my tank got infested with aiptasia. As a few of you guys know, ive been breeding berghia nudibranchs for 2 years now. I really dont give them enuff credit for the work they do, one of the best investments so far for me in this hobby. I will be exclusively selling these at RAP - If anyone wants to buy them pm me 10$ each for any size you want 1/2 to 1 1/2 inch. Anyway, Heres a photo i took at night with a flashlight of these creatures in their natural habitat lol

How are they with majano. I am having a majano problem.
 

sabellafella

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staten island
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I'd love to hear some of the particulars of your reefkeeping, water parameters, flow, lighting, feeding etc.

Thanks,

Howard

Well where to start lol. Been in the hobby since i was 15, im 26 now. Had 7 different saltwater displays since i started. Lost 4 during sandy unfortunately. Hopped back on the train about 4 years ago, absolutely could not shake the hobby. So im sure itll be with me for a while.

For parameters, using a pair of apex dos. For kalk and bionic 2 part. Keep my alk around 9.3 to 9.8. Calcium is always 450 since my tank been up, i use reef crystals but buy boxes in bulk with matching batch numbers so i stopped testing the bags. Keeps my mag around 1260-1300 as well
Nitrate is always around 12-20 p04 always .01 to .06

Dont run anything other then a skimmer, mesh socks, and some rox in a mesh bag. I have 3 vertex media reactors, dont use them because theyre WAY to big. I turned one into a macro reactor a few weeks ago, maybe ill use it for some cheato.
also 20% water changes every sunday like clockwork

Flow is by a jacod dct 15,000 at70% from the return. Macspect gyre 150 100% alternate every 2 mins. Jebao rw15 in pulse mode so my eauphyllias and stuff can sway on the left side of my tank

Feedings, exclusively lrs reef frenzy. Cut into cubes for the week, so i dont have to keep opening the package to get freezer burn. Get about 5 weeks worth of food at 3 tiny cut cubes daily. Naso tank and clown get some ON prime flakes every so often.
Like 2 3 times a week ill squirt some oyste4 feast into the food and dump it in to feed the "tank and fish" before lights out

Lighting -6 bulb 54 watt ati dimmable with reefbrite actinic strip. 4 blue+ 1 coral+ 1 purple+. 5 hours full on, 9 hours total ramping up/down the bulbs. Almost all my pictures are takin under coral+ purple+ and the led strip.
Never got into leds yet, but will still resort back to MH it i had the chance.

Anything else bud, give it a go. Would love to share
 

hbrochs

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Westchester, NY
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Thanks for that great write up!
I've seen many tanks with higher nutrients, but every time I let Nitrate creep up the corals start browning. Seems to be 10 is the limit for my tank and it seems happiest when nitrate is in the 3-5 range. Your tank is really beautiful with great colors so it's obviously working for you, congrats. Be interested if you have thoughts on why higher nutrients work for some tanks but not others.
 

sabellafella

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staten island
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Thanks for that great write up!
I've seen many tanks with higher nutrients, but every time I let Nitrate creep up the corals start browning. Seems to be 10 is the limit for my tank and it seems happiest when nitrate is in the 3-5 range. Your tank is really beautiful with great colors so it's obviously working for you, congrats. Be interested if you have thoughts on why higher nutrients work for some tanks but not others.
Hey bud, let me try to explain my way of thinking the best i could. Theres plenty of reasons why nutrients deal a big role both high and low. From what ive put together from my personal experience with this subject, excuse my french but nitrates basically dont mean **** unless theyre super high - 40 50+ ppm. Even past that point your harming one of animals you own, usually snails get lathargic at high n03 levels.
I feel nutrients should be based on what food compounds linger in the water column. My water can test for 20ppm, but lets say i just put a whole bottle of pellet food in. Withen a day or two, my filtration will pull it out before it can be converted to ammonia. Those organic compounds are abundantly available in the water column.But my tank can also have no fish never fed just rock with filtration, be crystal clear for weeks and have 20ppm n03
IF your overfeeding, and have really good filtration, youll never know if your overfeeding or not. Even if your nutrient test come back low. Usually results to browned out stuff Also, alk plays a big role as well. At a higher alk, a coral skeleton grows faster IF theres available nutrients to accommodate skin growth. I keep it high for that reason. also keep alk that high, because.between my buddys and almost everyone i know out here, alk is always around mine so im really not stressing anything during acclimation when i buy new corals.

Phosphate on the otherhand is critical. I really cant tell you why, other then if its not .02 to .1 in my tank, stuff either starts to pale close up or brown out.

Could be the coral, any acropora microlados you buy, you can almost smell the browning out waiting to appear once you put it in. Wild pieces are the majority thats notorious for brown outs. You can move a coral to windup getting it to brown out. I have a few, dont take photos of them otherwise i would. Its like almost all the aquacultured pieces i have colors are absolutely stunning.

Anyway, this all comes down to hitting your tanks medium, derived from testing, patients, and an understanding of your tank. Ive kept all my tanks nitrates around there, i did bother a few times to lower them but it didnt really show much of a difference. If you think about it, vendors like all our lfs, wwc top shelf, there all like 15+ for nitrates without issues. Ive only seen problems(at the time) with my tanks when getting nitrate to very low levels. So ill most likely never try to lower it again, and stick with my routine.
 
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sabellafella

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staten island
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Got the zoas from living reef orlando, at reef a palooza. Also re bought kennya flamethrower as a mini colony and another frag
 

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sabellafella

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Location
staten island
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Very nice! Are you using any gel filters?

I tryed it a couple times in the past, all the photos ive ever took under just blue leds i have. but i dont like them AT ALL. especially people trying to sell stuff using gel filters with blurry photos is just getting rediculous now. I cant take photos under leds without a gel filter because i dont own a program like lightroom or anything. Otherwise the corals get that blue chop to them. So i gave up shooting under leds all together, now i shoot under a coralplus purple plus and a reef brite with a galaxy s5. The s5 for some reason, pictures dont come out grey or washed out compared to the new galaxy, iphone, and my nikon. Angle of the photo plays a big role as well
 

sabellafella

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Location
staten island
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First is coral-purple plus and a reef brite. Second is everything (plus 4 blue plus bulbs) witch looks better? Some like the more blue pictures but i dont lol
 

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sabellafella

Advanced Reefer
Location
staten island
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Its like people disregard taking photos in whiter lighting, but going back to the basics imo is a better option because you can actually capture the true feel and color. And 9 times out of 10 usually looks heck of alot better then leds with a gel filter. That acro would prob look so insane with a gel filter, but it looks pretty how it is now.
 
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