Boomer

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Something wrong with those RC numbers

Should be more like--->

Reef Crystals
490 ppm Calcium
13 dKH, Alk
1440 ppm Magnesium


I would think the usage .15 / day is not terrible... calcium did not seem to drop any though.. is that normal?

Yes, it can be normal. When corals are growing, for every 20 ppm drop in Ca++, there will be a drop of 2.8 dKH. However, the dKH will drop more than that 2.8, as many other reactions use dKH. How much the Ca++ drops /day and its std dKH drop/ day will be dependent on what corals you have and how many. Soft corals will have much less of an impact on Ca++ and dKH than SPS corals. dKH can drop allot in dirty tanks or those loaded with organics and or fish.
 

lnevo

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I feel like I'm missing a post that someone made...i only tested calcium once during the alk testing when i started the auto dosing. I was lucky to find the time to do an alk test daily :) My tank is a mixed reef. A bit of everything, and probably more fish than I should... Here's a recent FTS

9u7a3edu.jpg


My RC numbers definitely weren't what you posted...I'll test again now that I've mixed up my bucket...see if any difference.
 

SteveZ15

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Something wrong with those RC numbers

Should be more like--->

Reef Crystals
490 ppm Calcium
13 dKH, Alk
1440 ppm Magnesium


Thats wierd my rc from the bucket 2 different batches tested

460 cal. 10dkh 1440 mag. If what you posted is what they intended the salt to be why is the alk so high?I am in a similar situation as Inevo

You also said something that helped me figure out something also, I was having a small phos issue being I am reluctant to add a lot of rowa because I messed up once and had a few frags rtn on my .Why does a lot of fish and nutrients deplete the dkh,just wondering.
 
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Boomer

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Steve, that is pretty close to what I posted . Don't forget test kits are not that accurate. A Ca++ test kit is more or less like +/- 25 ppm, same for Mg++. Alk is the hardest to get right.

I have no clue as of now if they mod. the blend again. When they do they do not tell us and I find out usually confidently. You guys will see it when there is a for sure shift in test results. My numbers are from the mod 3 years ago or so. Lastly, do you guys shake the bag and or roll the bucket before mixing and do you think maybe you are mixing it to fast ? These can change numbers, as can the Salinity you mixed it at. We use 1.026 @ 77 F for testing salt mixes.
 

lnevo

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I haven't tested yet since rolling my bucket around but the salt is from the 25g bags that come in the 200g box.

I'll try and test my new water again tomorrow. I usually prep new water shortly after doing my WC so its sitting around close to a week circulating. I mix up to 35ppt and my heater is set to 78, I'll lower it a bit, but during the summer the temp was actually a bit higher than my tank. It doesn't make too much difference the temp because i do a continuous WC so my tank temp only changes about 1/2 a degree.

I would never test without at least 24 hours of mixing...but maybe longer...
 

Boomer

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Ok, you need to remember, be it bag or bucket of dry salt, needs to be mixed thoroughly before using them. Particles settle out as a function of particle density, size, vibration and/or movement.
 
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Boomer

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Steve

Why does a lot of fish and nutrients deplete the dkh,just wondering.


The Alk is what, a Buffer. Many reactions use up the Alk to try and Buffer the water and help maintain pH. Fish and nutrients produce acids which the Alk Buffers out. A common term in a Limnology for Alk is ANC = Acid Neutralizing Capacity. And we are trying to neutralize acids so the pH does not fall or fall as much.


Here is one example.

You know what Kalk is. You must of heard of adding Kalk at night to help keep the pH up ? Well, it is acting as a Buffer

Ca(OH)2 dissolves in water and reacts with CO2 which as far as you are concerned is an acid,


Ca(OH)2 ------> Ca + 2 OH

CO2 + OH ------> HCO3 (<--baking soda)

So, the Kalk can really raise the pH, but when it reacts with CO2, removing the CO2, the pH goes up some. So, the Kalk is buffering the water so the pH falls less.

But don't run with this, as Kalk is kinda special vs the Alk Buffers you are using. Many reefers just can't use just Kalk to maintain Alk, pH and Calcium.

The last issue with most Alk sups, is they have little or no impact on CO2 like Kalk / say. You can fix your pH briefly with these common Alk sup's but you would end up adding more to raise the pH and the Alk will just keep getting higher if your tank has CO2. Most Buufers do squat for CO2 but many acids are not CO2 based and will get neutralized by most Buffers.
 

lnevo

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So alk has been pretty stable at 7.8. I need to test the calcium more. It was 460 after the water change and 425 today, but I think overall it's a good number.

As far as my nitrate issue, I did slow down on the feeding this week and I did start the prodibio. 2 vials of BioDigest and 2 of BioOptim. I was at 12 after my WC last week and now I'm at 4ppm. I'll see how it is next week before I go ahead with another batch.

Overall, everything is looking sharp and growing. I see new growth every day. Crazy.
 

Boomer

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Your Alk and Ca++ are fine. There is no need to run high Ca++. It DOES NOT make corals grow faster. Many like to run high Alk and Ca++ out of laziness and the not wanting to add sups. This makes for a very unstable environment with a constant Yo-Yo effect.
 

lnevo

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So, I slowed down on testing as things have been extremely stable. The alk is dialed in perfectly at 7.8dkh and the calcium has maintained between 420-450. The higher side right after WCs. The prodibio also seems to be doing well and I'm at 4ppm nitrates. That's with feeding on the heavy side.

Here's my current params:
 
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lnevo

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The graphic I posted has all params. Mag is 1560 right now. It was as high as 1640 a few weeks ago.

Not sure how it got so high, but I think I definitely had some issues with my last salt batch not being mixed thoroughly. I'm now adding less bags to the bucket and mixing it up.
 

viplok

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interesting post. i always have hard time keeping my alk up like you. i find that if you keep messing with the amount of dosage it will get more mess up at the long run. what i do is set a dosage amount and keep increasing it through out a period of time(small increment every week). i find "bumping" up alk in a day or two only stress out coral and often not going to hold no matter how much its being dosed, small increment of doser is best way to go. i started off from 25ml a day to 47ml a day in my 34g but what ever it takes to keep it constant =D.

glad your back on track now. i have great result with Reef Crystal, better than red sea pro i used in the past.
 

lnevo

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So my dosing routine has been going since So did the full battery of tests last night. Alk at 8.1 and Calcium at 440. My pumps have been dosing very evenly, I had to adjust my calibration on them slightly. I've been doing 20ml of each and so far happy with the results.

I'm finally seeing Mag starting to drop. Last night was at 1480. I think that's still a good number... At what point do I want to start dosing the BRS mag portion? I know from BRS their recommendation is when I'm done with the first gallon of 2 part to dose 20 oz of the mag supplement.

What's your thoughts on dosing the 20 oz of mag in one or two shots per BRS recommnedation? I did pick up a 3rd dosing pump and may in the future dilute the 20 oz to a gallon to dose daily along side the other additives, but not sure if that's really needed.
 
M

Moneymaks24

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U can't just bump up alk dosing viplock u need to bump BOTH alk and calcium or Lower BOTH alk and calcium depending on your results.
 

TommyP

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Glad I caught this. Just started dosing myself and have read through all the pages.

my alk is at 7.1 as of last night I want to bring it to 8.
Calcium is at 520 for some reason
need to get a new mag test kit lost the glass vial for my red sea kit.

What dosers do you have? I got 2 of the BRS 1.1ml/min
 

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