Boomer

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Flex

One final note, after learning about the redfield ratio and the relationship of C, N & P to bacterial growth... I noticed in the other thread that some people were having problems bringing N down past a certain level.

One needs to be careful with the phase Redfield Ratio, as those often posted or given are for pelagic Phytoplankton and not bacteria.

I do not think /say that P is the issue. There are differnt bacteria, i.e, PAB and Non-PAB . PAB = Phosphate Accumulating Bacteria. This maybe part of the issue.


If P has reached near 0 levels, there will be no way for the bacteria to continue consuming N and C. Again, there is a ratio of consumption that is held constant. Even though there is plenty of C available in the form of pellets, the bacteria colonization will halt at that point because there is no longer enough P present for it to continue growing, hence the inability to further reduce N.


But what are you calling near zero ? Reefs have on the order of 0.005 ppm PO4. As far as C goes seawater is never limited by C. Your Alk is C based, CO3--, HCO3-. It is more on the order that the N is accmulating at a much higher rate than can be consumed, more P or not. If one raise P there may be a bacterial explosion which has been known to happen in reef tanks

The same can be inferred if its the other way around. If N has reached 0 or untraceable, the P level in the system will be held constant at that point because equilibrium has been reached just like above.

But you are not going to find this. One has to remember that most are only testing for Orthophosphate and not other forms of phosphate your kit can not detect, i.e., organic phosphates, polyphosphates,etc., which many bacteria can convert and use.



Is it safe to assume that while running Pellets, if your PO4 readings are minimal (e.g. .01) and your Nitrates are held constant at 5-10ppm and cannot go down any further (I think Dr. Harry is experiencing this), and introduction of PO4 into the system will further jolt the bacteria into growth again and help to bring NO3 down even further? :scratch: hmmmmm..

Yes maybe but do you really want to do this ? And maybe create a massive bacteria explosion ? When N is increasing or even in steady state it is THAT population density that reached a peak for THAT processes taking place. The Bio-Pellets may have reached their peek and other means are needed.

Joe Yullio at the Atlantis Aquarium on Long Island has been dealing with the same, High NO3 and low PO4-. Over the course of months he has been very careful to slowly adding Ethanol and slowly increasing it. It *appears now the NO3 - is going down or at least we hope. He sure as hell now does not want to increase the dosage more now it it is taking place, for a fear of an off-set and a water column bacterial explosion.

The real issue here is one overloading the system with NO3- and one needs to cure this source of NO3-. Part of this may be due to little or lack of proper sufrace area for Facultative Denitrifying Anaerobic Bacteria or the need of a Denitro-reactor. The idea of adding more P to the water column will bring one to the next stage i.e., a water column bacterial explosion to reduce the NO3-. That is NOT where you want it taking place. Some Denitrifying Bacteria can actually encapsulate themselves ( making themselves a very low O2 environment) and grow on the rock, glass, underside of plants or even in the water column.
 

HHaase

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I know I'm jumping into this thing a bit late, but a couple ideas popped into my head.- As mentioned in a couple of other posts, the bare bottom tank does concern me a bit in this case. A deep enough substrate also helps to contiribute to the denitrification. You may want to look into installing a fresh sand bed, or at least adding a sand bed to a refugium if you prefer the look of the bare bottom tank. It's possible that a lot of detrius regularly accumulated in the sand when you had a heavy fish level and smaller skimmers, and the decomposition of this was just more than your rock/sand at the time was able to denitrify. - I saw you were using an RO/DI, which is good. But if you haven't done so already, I'd suggest testing the water that's going into the tank to see if it may be getting introduced during your water changes. Are you running a TDS meter on there? - Just for the sake of getting a good baseline, have you also tested nitrites and ammonia recently? That's a lot of work to do in a tank in a short time period, and there's the chance that it's cycling to some degree.-Hans
 

Boomer

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waynotcars

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Hans,
Yes I have a dual TDS meter. 0 going in, 0 going out. Tested RO/DI water. 0 nitrates 0 phosphates, 0 everything. In sump is live rock and chaeto. I don't see how adding sand will help. I think it will make things worse. The new skimmer is pulling gunk out like crazy! Green, stinky water and if you look at the display tank it looks crystal clear. I am hoping that the skimmer in timne will begin to lower the nitrates. I tested phosphates tonight and they are down to 0.25 ppm. I thought maybe tank was cycling again so I tested ammonia and nitrite and they are both dead zero. Tested nitrate again today and 80 ppm, deep red on the api test kit. I added a Devils Hand and a star polyp day before Thanksgiving and they adjusted in a couple hours and are looking (right now) beautiful. The ONLY place these nitrates can possibly be coming from is the live rock. There is no other place for them to be. No sand, no bio balls, no filter sock, no nothing. Just rock, chaeto and a skimmer. Soembody has suggested I run sulfer media with argonite on top of it in a reactor. At this point I can't do anything else to the system. I gotta give it time to rest and do nothing to it I guess.
 

HHaase

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I gotta give it time to rest and do nothing to it I guess.

Well, if the phosphates are going down and everything is healthy, sounds like you're on the right path by taking it slow at this point. Regular water changes, clean the skimmer daily, and keep an eye on the water conditions to see what's happening.

How big and how often are you doing water changes?

-Hans
 

waynotcars

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Well yesterday I dosed 118 ml of Special Blend. This dose is only recommended for a 110 to 130 gal tank but LFS had only 1 four oz bottle left. WHEW!!! This stuff does stink!! But I was able to dose in the basement and about 5 minutes after it hits the water the smell is gone. Do I have my hopes up?! Yes I do. My skimmer bagan to pull all kinds of DEEP brown slimy crud. 8 hours later I tested nitrates and they were down about 10 to 15 ppm to about 40 to 45 ppm! This morning when I got up and looked at tank the rocks were much cleaner then they've been in a long time. Still some cyano but not half as much as usual. I promptly ordered a 16 oz bottle online and cannot wait for it to come so I can give a second dose. Is this the miracle product that everyone says? Time will tell. I'll keep you posted.
 

waynotcars

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It's made by Microbe Lift. It's not a chemical. It's bacteria in a bottle. Do a search for it in threads on here, RC, etc. Lots have tried it and I haven't found anyone to say anything but good things about so far. Nothing negative I can find.
 

waynotcars

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Well today my 16oz bottle of Special Blend came in the mail so I dosed the tank with the additional 120 ml. With 300 gallons in my system I should have dosed 240 ml initially but because I was only able to initially get a 4 oz bottle I had to dose 118 ml Saturday and 120 ml today. The second dose would be this coming Saturday. You're supposed to dose every 7 days and the dosage goes down each week. I won;t check the nitrates again for a couple of days. It takes time for the bacteria to establish themselves. What I CAN report is today there was NO sign of the red cyano in my tank for the first time in weeks. That alone is WORTH it! I have a good feeling about this stuff and will report each time I test nitrates. What I especially like is it is not a chemical additive but simply nitrifying bacteria colonies in a bottle. It stinks completely of sulfer (rotten eggs) and how many times have we heard of sulfar denitrators, etc. I don't want to get too excited on the nitrate reduction until i wait a couple weeks and see what happens but so far, as I said, no cyano!
 

waynotcars

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12/02/10 Nitrates holding steady at 40 to 50 ppm. No sign of Cyano at all in tank. At least the disgusting red slime is gone. Nitrite 0 Phosphate .03 Ammonia 0 Nitrate 40 to 50. The darned colors on the API kits are so close once you go above the orange there's no exact way to be accurate. Just shooting for orange, then hopefully yellow.
 

InfernoST

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Well today my 16oz bottle of Special Blend came in the mail so I dosed the tank with the additional 120 ml. With 300 gallons in my system I should have dosed 240 ml initially but because I was only able to initially get a 4 oz bottle I had to dose 118 ml Saturday and 120 ml today. The second dose would be this coming Saturday. You're supposed to dose every 7 days and the dosage goes down each week. I won;t check the nitrates again for a couple of days. It takes time for the bacteria to establish themselves. What I CAN report is today there was NO sign of the red cyano in my tank for the first time in weeks. That alone is WORTH it! I have a good feeling about this stuff and will report each time I test nitrates. What I especially like is it is not a chemical additive but simply nitrifying bacteria colonies in a bottle. It stinks completely of sulfer (rotten eggs) and how many times have we heard of sulfar denitrators, etc. I don't want to get too excited on the nitrate reduction until i wait a couple weeks and see what happens but so far, as I said, no cyano!

I've been using a Midwest Aquatics sulfur denitrifier for over a year now and really haven't had any issues or lingering sulfur odors (Almost set it and forget it). With the denitrifier if you are getting that sulfur odor it means some of the bacteria is dying off due to the lack of nutrients which is rectified by increasing the flow through the device just a little. I test my Nitrates with a Salifert test kit and the results come back undetectable.
 

waynotcars

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I've been using a Midwest Aquatics sulfur denitrifier for over a year now and really haven't had any issues or lingering sulfur odors (Almost set it and forget it). With the denitrifier if you are getting that sulfur odor it means some of the bacteria is dying off due to the lack of nutrients which is rectified by increasing the flow through the device just a little. I test my Nitrates with a Salifert test kit and the results come back undetectable.


I had an Aquaripure Denitrator running for 4 months. After 4 months I tested effluent (water leaving unit) and nitrates were slightly HIGHER then the display tank. Waste of electricity.
 

InfernoST

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I had an Aquaripure Denitrator running for 4 months. After 4 months I tested effluent (water leaving unit) and nitrates were slightly HIGHER then the display tank. Waste of electricity.

I didn't go with the Aquaripure Denitrator because of all the reported problems with clogging, odor and having to constantly feed it.
 

waynotcars

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I didn't go with the Aquaripure Denitrator because of all the reported problems with clogging, odor and having to constantly feed it.


I had constant problems with clogging and constantly having to adjust it. Also since you have to feed it with vodka I felt it was the same thing as vodka dosing. I never had a problem with odor but I almost wish I had as at least that would have told me there were bacteria in it. I drove 150 miles to buy the thing and was so excited to try it.
 

InfernoST

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I had constant problems with clogging and constantly having to adjust it. Also since you have to feed it with vodka I felt it was the same thing as vodka dosing. I never had a problem with odor but I almost wish I had as at least that would have told me there were bacteria in it. I drove 150 miles to buy the thing and was so excited to try it.

That sucks. How is the tank doing now?
 

waynotcars

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Well, since dosing this Special Blend by Microbe lift al the Cyano has disappeared and the water is CRYSTAL. Last nitrate reading was holding steady at 40 to 50 ppm but everything I've read says it must be dosed for at least 4 to 5 weeks for it to have an effect on nitrates. So I'm just skimming away, dosing, and waiting.
 

InfernoST

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Cool, glad to hear the slime is gone. I fought that crap for 1 1/2 years and finally beat it, I'm happy to finally be able to put some SPS back in the tank. Good luck down there.
 

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