Dipping Corals
- Thread starter Dace
- Start date
Solace Aquatics LLC
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- Charleston, SC
I use ReVive Coral Cleaner and in a seperate container Ludol's Solution.
For zoa imports, I do a freshwater dip the second they come out of the case.
For zoa imports, I do a freshwater dip the second they come out of the case.
- Location
- poughquag, ny
Ive Used The Revive Myself, Not A Bad Product, Was One Of The Thing's I Tried With Monti Eating Nudi's
- Location
- Ossining, NY
not sure I have EVER dipped a coral. SOAKED, maybe, but dipped, never.
Each animal could/should have unique quarantine methodologies -
For clams, I do a PH and temperature balanced RO/DI SOAK for 30 minutes with ALL clams. Whether this is acceptable or not, I am not sure, seems to be working thus far.
Scoly's and hammers are prone to planaria and many other pests. For those LPS, I do a series of SOAKS - never fresh water and always flat worm exit in the bag when they arrive (during temperature acclimation). Then revive and a short dip in melafix or pimafix (whichever I have in house at the time).
Acro's get Tropic Marin Pro for 30 mins, tank water for 30 minutes and revive for 15 minutes. I don't treat at point of entry for red bugs because I prophylactically treat for red bugs every 3 months like clockwork.
Zoos get the same flat worm exit treatment, a fresh water dip and then a concentrated dip in lugols - after that, they get a Furhan II dip and into the tank they go.
Hope that helps,
House
Each animal could/should have unique quarantine methodologies -
For clams, I do a PH and temperature balanced RO/DI SOAK for 30 minutes with ALL clams. Whether this is acceptable or not, I am not sure, seems to be working thus far.
Scoly's and hammers are prone to planaria and many other pests. For those LPS, I do a series of SOAKS - never fresh water and always flat worm exit in the bag when they arrive (during temperature acclimation). Then revive and a short dip in melafix or pimafix (whichever I have in house at the time).
Acro's get Tropic Marin Pro for 30 mins, tank water for 30 minutes and revive for 15 minutes. I don't treat at point of entry for red bugs because I prophylactically treat for red bugs every 3 months like clockwork.
Zoos get the same flat worm exit treatment, a fresh water dip and then a concentrated dip in lugols - after that, they get a Furhan II dip and into the tank they go.
Hope that helps,
House
- Location
- Wallingford, CT
30 minutes in Pro-Cure - how long do the SPS brown out for?
I do about a 30 minute dip as well, and have not had any "brown out" issues.
So iodine dip is only for softies, zoos and shrooms? not for scelertans as well? Also, I like to quarantine my corals for a few days to watch for hitchhikers but dont have an extra light for the quarantine tank ( same one I use for fish and haven't medicated it ). How long can the corals go for without direct light ( the tank is close enough to the DT to get some incidental light )?
I believe that the primary ingredient in Tropic Marin Pro Cure, as well as a number of similar dips is iodine.
Not sure how long most photosynthetic corals can go without light, but I run my SPS tank lights out for 4 days every three or four months.
i do 10-15 minute Pro cure dips like the bottle recommends. Most acros show no signs of stress, but I have had a couple "Fade out" and have lost 2 frags to the dip. The ones that fade eventually color back up..It's worth the piece of mind.
Keep in mind the Pro-Cure does not kill red bugs. Somehow they manage to survive the dip and get in my system and I have had to treat a few times. No biggie, I stopped buying shrimp.
I only dip SPS
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- Location
- Ossining, NY
Wes, me too :-( - since I treat every 3 months prophalactically, I don't use crabs or shrimp any longer in my display as it's plumbed into the sps trough for grow out.
Ming, maybe long, but I am worm free :-0 and yes, occasionally I get a few dead frags.
Warren - some corals respond differently - I do the same dip and a nana would completely brown out and a granulosa would not - go figure - I would have thought the opposite. I am sure it has allot to do with the animals initial health and system origin as well.
jejton -
Zoos - flat worm exit in the bag - water volume varies, but I use 10 drops no matter what the water volume is. Then, 8oz RO/DI water - 2 full squirts/pumps Procure or 4 capfuls of revive (very scientific) - Furan II - 16oz of salt water and a full tablet - I usually use about 1/2 this solution.
LPS - flat worm exit in the bag - water volume varies, but I use 10 drops no matter what the water volume is. then about 5 minutes in RO/DI water at tank temperature.
SPS -
acros - 30 minutes in Procure - 16ozs salt water and 3 full squirts/pumps
monti's - FW dip - 5 minutes of RO/DI water heated to tank temp
House
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
I just picked up a couple of acros while I was away
one was a cultured yellow milli that did fine I did a interceptor dip for one hour, 10 mins lugol dip than a ro/di rinse no problems
the second coral didnt fair too well it was a wild colony from tonga yellow with green polyps same regiment and it bleached entirely within hours
win some lose some
one was a cultured yellow milli that did fine I did a interceptor dip for one hour, 10 mins lugol dip than a ro/di rinse no problems
the second coral didnt fair too well it was a wild colony from tonga yellow with green polyps same regiment and it bleached entirely within hours
win some lose some
Interceptor is a prescription heart worm medication for dogs. Following 30 minutes in Tropic Marin Pro-Cure, I do a 30 minute dip in an interceptor solution for red bugs and then into my tank it goes.
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