First Time Plumber

[eoffrey]

ha!! true enough I guess....but taking action to do it yourself rather than hire someone else, is still something to commend you for if you ask me!!! Looking back, hiring someone would have been a sheer joy for me! :splitspin

 

[herman]

What they will be sending you is just a simple silicone tube. All of Europe uses metric fittings while the US uses imperial fittings making it impossible (or a real pita) to plumb anything without one of these silicone tubes.

 

[alrha]

i got the silicone, but not the clamps.
can i just glue the silicone to the RD and to a Union?

 

[bad coffee]

Nope. you have to clamp it. Clams are cheap. about $1 for two or three.

And the 'why not use threaded pieces everywhere? You don't need to use them. Plus, they can leak easier than regular pvc joints. There are places where you need to use threaded joints (on threaded bulkheads for example.) Then you use teflon tape and do a couple of wraps around the male fitting before you make the connection.

B

 

[alrha]

thanks B.

The metal clamps are SW safe? or should i stick with plastic?

 

[masterswimmer]

Use stainless steel marine grade clamps.
And, when using teflon tape, wrap it about 7 or 8 revolutions. (sorry B :hug: )

swimmer

 

[alrha]

how long do i need to wait for everything to dry before i can run my return again?

and would a gate valve on the return be better than a ball valve?

 

[DEEPWATER]

if using PVC glue ,it will dry within mins

 

[masterswimmer]

how long do i need to wait for everything to dry before i can run my return again?

and would a gate valve on the return be better than a ball valve?

I agree with deep, the pvc will dry within minutes. I've used it after letting it sit for 15 minutes. I just normally rinse the fitting in some fresh water to remove any stray primer.

A gate valve is great on a return line. However, it works even better running in tandem with a ball valve. The gate valve will allow you to fine tune the flow to precisely what you need. When you need to service your pump though, you don't want to close the gate valve completely because you'll 'lose' that fine tuned setting. Therefore, with a ball valve on the same line, all you have to do is shut the ball valve and leave the gate set at exactly the setting that works for you. No leaks/siphon while the pump is off and all settings remain constant.

Hope that wasn't too confusing.

swimmer

 

[alrha]

well home depot didnt have any PVC gate valves, so i'll plumb everything up with just a union by the pump and a ball valve, if i find that i need to fine tune the flow, i can always add a gate valve. the RD are not pressure pumps, so i may just need to keep it on full flow anyway to overcome the head.

going to the beach now, will work on it tonight...

 

[alrha]

got all the parts yesterday (most of them). getting there...

is it possible to re-use fittings that were already glued to PVC?
in other words, the parts from my current plumbing, is there a way to break them off and clean them up? or just throw them out and use new?

Also, Home Depot gave me the Purple Primer and PVC Cement, i noticed that there is Flexible PVC cement, would that be better to use (i assume) since i am using Flexible PVC? or does it not really make a difference?

Lastly, is there a way to change the 'bend' of the flex PVC? some parts i just want straight, other parts i need in somewhat of an "S" shape (from pump to return). Does it help if i heat it up in hot water then cool it in the shape i want? or something like that?

 

[scumonkey]

"Also, Home Depot gave me the Purple Primer and PVC Cement, i noticed that there is Flexible PVC cement, would that be better to use (i assume) since i am using Flexible PVC? or does it not really make a difference?"
I would like to know this as well since I just went to the hardware store and asked for primer and cement for flex pvc and they gave me the reg stuff...said it would work. Don't need to screw such a small thing up turning into a mountainious mistake!

 

[masterswimmer]

is it possible to re-use fittings that were already glued to PVC?

If you have enough room between your fittings and the end of the pvc, you can cut it square and use a pvc coupling.

Personally, I'd use all new fittings. In the scheme of things, it's cheap dollars well spent.

Also, Home Depot gave me the Purple Primer and PVC Cement, i noticed that there is Flexible PVC cement, would that be better to use (i assume) since i am using Flexible PVC? or does it not really make a difference?

Scroll down to below the snake :wink1: . You'll find your answer there.

Lastly, is there a way to change the 'bend' of the flex PVC? some parts i just want straight, other parts i need in somewhat of an "S" shape (from pump to return). Does it help if i heat it up in hot water then cool it in the shape i want? or something like that?

Hot water is always a good 'motivator' for flex pipe. You just might find it a little difficult to stick the middle of the pipe into a bucket of water. A blow dryer on high might help a bit.

 

[alrha]

You just might find it a little difficult to stick the middle of the pipe into a bucket of water. A blow dryer on high might help a bit.

wise guy!
:thanks:

 

[alrha]

"All flexible pvc pipe is glued using stardard PVC pipe cement & primer and uses standard pvc fittings."
Means

is not needed.

 

[masterswimmer]

wise guy!
:thanks:

:hug:

 

[masterswimmer]

"All flexible pvc pipe is glued using stardard PVC pipe cement & primer and uses standard pvc fittings."
Means

is not needed.

Correctamundo!! But if you already own it, you can use it, no worries.

R

 

[alrha]

i didnt own it, but i couldnt find it, and now i know i didnt need it.

 

[alrha]

I DID IT!!!
My tank is now running on the Red Dragon Pump and the BlueLine is sitting on my kitchen counter.
i didnt have much difficulty with priming and glueing the PVC - is there any way to clean off the purple primer that shows on the outside?
My close call was that i had purchased female threaded-slip fittings to connect the PVC to the return bulkhead, ends up the bulkhead was female, but luckily i had on hand a male-male threaded which was able to make the connection for me, and i left room on the pipe to cut it out and glue it to the male-slip adapter when i get one.
The hardest part was unscrewing the union of my old pump (it seems that the guy who installed it was cement happy and cemented the union shut). i ended up just cutting the pvc to get it out.

My main issue now is how to cap off my 1" bulkhead. It is slip inside and threaded outside, but when i try to screw a 1-1/4" cap on it (1" too small and 1-1/2" too big) it doesnt screw onto it. do i need a 1-3/8" threaded cap? and lastly, the rubber seal around the bulkhead always leaks if i move the pipe a drop and i have to play with the pipe position till i can get it to not leak, any way to solve this?
anyway, thanks for all your help guys, it is much appreciated, i wouldnt have been able to do this without you.

 

[eoffrey]

I'm very new to plumbing tanks myself, though I think where the bulkhead and gasket are concerned, that more often than not, if they have a slight drip or the likes, they over OVER tightened. Not 100% sure, but, maybe try loosening it a bit? :::::shrug:::::

Congrats on having it done. Can I see some pics of your plumbing?