What about the table saw blade type?

[Anonymous]

What kind of blade do we need for our table saw?

Should all of the bits, blades, etc., be used exclusivley for acrylic? Or can we use them with various woodworking projects that we may have going on?

Louey

 

[fergy]

As a general rule, you want to keep all of your plastic tools and wood tools separate. Usually, they are different types of cutters, so you really wouldn't want to use one for the other. Also, in wood, you tend to dull the blades really fast, especially when cutting anything with a glue or resin in it.

Table saw blade:
I've used Forrest blades in the past, and I was unhappy with the quality of the cut. In addition, they had very poor tolerance on the arbor, and had to be pounded onto the saw arbor with a rubber mallet. Other people love them, I don't. In addition, within the first 10 minutes on the saw, the blade I had threw three carbide tips, and I'm quite glad they weren't stuck in my face.

The blade I use is from Wisconsin Knife Works. I called around in the local yellow pages, and found someone with a blade that matched my specs. It's a 10" blade, triple-chip grind, 60-tooth, 5-degree positive rake angle. This should allow you to order from any of your local places. Up to 80 teeth for a 10" blade will also be fine. This blade cost me about $60.

If you really want to order a high-price blade, or you can't find a local supplier, I can set you up with another supplier in California that you can mail-order from. The proper blade will set you back ~$140 from this supplier.

BRIAN
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Honda MT50

 

[Modo]

So, if we can't find those exact specs on a blade we can use a 10" blade that has 60-80 teeth?

 

[fergy]

So, if we can't find those exact specs on a blade we can use a 10" blade that has 60-80 teeth?

The simple answer is "not safely". Many people will disagree and say they've cut plastic fine, but it's not safe nor is the quality any good.

You want a 60-80 tooth, triple-chip tooth, also called "square and advance" carbide-tipped blade. Each tooth should have a positive hook angle of 5-10 degrees. Those specs should allow you to find the exact blade you want. This is for a normal table saw that takes 10" blades.


When you cut, you want the blade to be set about 1/2" above the top of the material. You'll find an optimal point.

BRIAN
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Honda CT110

 

[cplisky1]

1. If we are ordering all the acrylic parts from you will we need to get the special saw blade you recommend?

2. What is the procedure for placing our order with you?

 

[fergy]

1. If we are ordering all the acrylic parts from you will we need to get the special saw blade you recommend?

No, as I will send them all cut and ready to go.

2. What is the procedure for placing our order with you?

I believe Bill is setting it up with PayPal payment. He and I talked yesterday about how to determine shipping. I think we're going to have a set shipping cost, and then I'll refund the difference, via check. Does this seem feasible?

BRIAN
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BMW 3 Series

 

[Modo]

Sounds good to me. I know that up to a certain weight level UPS Ground is basically the same charge across the entire continental US. Maybe get an idea of where everyone is and just do an average. I wouldn't be looking for much of a refund if it ends up a couple of bucks. Count it towards the wear on your equipment.

 

[fergy]

I'll be shipping via FedEx Ground, as they are cheaper to me than UPS. I won't know if the package needs to go dimensional or not until I actually pack one. I'm assuming they will, because of the tube.

BRIAN
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Business Credit Forum

 

[agiacosa]

Fergy,

Can you provide me a link for the saw blade? Can't find one locally.

Thanks.

Art

 

[fergy]

http://www.thefabricatorssource.com/pro ... blades.htm

You'll want a PLG series blade. I would suggest the PLG10803. Remember, this isn't mandatory for this course.

BRIAN
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[Anonymous]

Fergy, I found a table saw blade at Lowes that closely matches your description. The brand name was Freud. It was marked as an 80 tooth, triple chip grind with thin kerf. The hook angle was not labeled. Are you fimiliar with this brand of blade. This blade was listed as $59.99.

Do you think it would work?

Louey

 

[fergy]

Chances are, it would work well. Perhaps if you took the model number, and looked it up on Freud's website, you'd be able to find the hook angle.

BRIAN
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Osteoporosis Forum

 

[DontYouJustWish]

wholly batcrap those blades are expensive!!!!! :wink:

 

[fergy]

That's nothing. "Real" plastic blades are around $200, usually.
FTM is where most places that I know of get their blades from.

BRIAN
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Mercedes O405

 

[reefdiver2]

Hi Brian! I did email you separately but maybe my question would be informative to others as well.

I was wondering if we had to have or use a table saw? I personally do not own one and would rather not have to run out and buy one. Anyway, can we use one of those portable saws that carpenters use on the job to mitter & cut angles? If so, do we just purchase the same 10" blade that you recommend?

If I don't have a way of cutting with a saw, what do I have to do to get the extra materials from you that I would need, I mean acrylic wise?

Finally, I couldn't find IPS Weldon at either HD or Lowes? Also, what does MNPT & FNPT stand for?? I know it's probably Male & Female something or other?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[fergy]

Several things:

If you don't have a saw, it doesn't matter. This course was designed to be done without one. You only need a router with a router table, and a drill. You will need the router bit I provided a link for in an earlier post.

There are packages that I'm providing. You choose the package based on the rough final height of reactor you want. Basically, I subtract 6" from that height, and provide you with the cast tube at that length. Those packages are listed on the MACO page, on the left side, next to the class enrollment stuff.

You won't need to use your miter saw. You can use it with a special blade, but I talk more about that in the course ;-) This is to learn about how to work with this stuff, and I tried to prevent people from having to buy alot of tools. Maybe we're even coming in cheaper than Eric's book requirements ;-)

Steve: it's good you asked this, as I saw you hadn't picked a package. I was wondering if you planned to. Also, please email me privately with your nick here and real name with address, so I can cross-check them on my lists.

MNPT is Male National Pipe Thread. FNPT is Femal National Pipe Thread. Standard threads for PVC parts here in the US.

See if you can find a local acrylic supplier in your phone book for Weldon products. It's a specialty item. Look under Plastic-Sheet, Rod, Tube

BRIAN
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Mercedes 500E

 

[Anonymous]

Well I finally received a catalog from Fruend so that I could look up the specs on theie blades. There website did not contain that info.

Anyway, their "10 inch Plexiglass" blade has hook angle of -3 degrees, kerf is .110, plate is .087MM, the triple chip height is 4mm. This is an 80 tooth, triple chip grind blade. Their catalog says "Acrylic, polycarbonate, vinyl and most other plastics can now be cut cleanly without melting using the LU94M series from Freud. By combining micrograin carbide tips with a specially modified triple chip grind and negative hook angle, these blades will give the clean, smooth cut expected from the high tooth count but produce less heat, keeping the cut edges crisper."

What do you think Fergy? Your specs call for 5 - 10 degree positive hook angle but this one is negative 3, but it is specifically design to cut acrylic!

You can see and buy this blade at woodworker.com for $89. This was the first price I found, so it might can be bought cheaper.

Louey

 

[fergy]

That blade sounds like a copper or aluminum blade, with the negative hook angle, but I'm sure it would work fine. The exact specs on this info will be in lesson three.

BRIAN
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Ultram Rehab Forum

 

[hfmann]

I know this is old stuff, but I decided to buy a table saw blade for future projects and now am serious about paying attention .

All the folks at the saw shop claimed that I didn't want a positive rake blade. They said I wanted the Freud Plexiglass blade with the negative 3 rake. They were unanimous in their opinion that the positive rake would heat up the acrylic. They were adamant, but I stood my ground and got the positive hook one. Now I'm having 2nd thoughts.

The 60 tooth Plexiglass blade with negative rake angle was about $20 more and the 80 tooth added another $20.

Nonetheless, I got a 60 toother, feeling that that would take bigger slices than the 80 and thereby remove more heat. Is that right?

So before I use it and can't return the blade....please confirm that I got the right one. (ie., Triple Chip, Carbide, 10", 60 tooth, 5 degree positive).

Thanks.

 

[fergy]

No acrylic shop that I know of uses a negative hook angle, if that helps.

That plex blade from Freud sounds more like it's for ferrous metals, honestly.

My blade has a 5 degree positive hook angle. It also has 60 teeth. It works fine for my purposes. Usually, more teeth are used on thinner material, such as 1/8", or on larger-diameter blades. A standard blade from FTM for cutting up to 1/2" thick material has 72 teeth.

What was the price on it?

BRIAN
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