New closed loop.

[spaulr]

Since my stand is on hold I have a few questions about plumbing parts for closed loops so I can start spending all the money I don't have :lol: . I've pretty much decided on my pump-

Panworld 50px-x - 1100 gph. 1" intake/output

Looking at marinedepot's plumbing page there appears to be a bunch of different bulkheads to choose from. Since I've never done a closed loop before which type should I get - standard threaded, double threaded, double slip. Also, to add to the confusion, all those are also available in Normal or Heavy duty.

Question 2 - When websites say Size = 1" and Hole size = 1 3/4". Does this mean Size is the 1" inner diameter? And the drilled hole for the bulkhead to fit is 1 3/4"?

I think I'd like to use a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" intake to get the least amount of restriction.

What do you think?

 

[Anonymous]

Hey

Here ya go.


Slip bulkheads allow you to glue pvc pipe or fittings into them Threaded ones take threaded parts. I will never buy slip bulkheads for my display tank again. I have replaced them 2 times already because I keep changing the plumbing around. If I had used threaded I could unscrew stuff and not have to replace the bulkhead.

Heavy duty ones have more plastic so they are a bit stronger.

I used the light duty ones.

They also come in different colors. I recently ordered some from a company and thought they were black but they ended up being white.

The website will say a 1" bulkhead meaning it fits 1" fittings. The 1 3/4" is the size of hole you have to have drilled in the tank.


If your pump has a 1" inlet and its a really short run then you would be fine with a 1" bulkhead. If however you are running down to the basement and around corners and stuff then go up a size.

1 1/2 inch fittings are easier to get than 1 1/4 though.

Any more questions just ask.


Have fun!

 

[spaulr]

Thanks Knucklehead.

I'll definitely go with the 1" threaded bulkheads.

I've read people posting that you can improve the amount of flow by increasing the diameter of the plumbing in between the pump and the intake/oulets. for example, 1" bulkhead -> 2" pcv => 1" pump intake...etc...etc.

Is this true? It seems like it might, but the 1" bulkhead and the 1" inlet/outlet at the pump will be bottlenecks at some point. Is it worth going with the bigger size pvc?

 

[Anonymous]

Unless you are making the whole run bigger from the hole in the tank all the way to the pump then its really just a waste of fittings.

If you are using 1" bulkheads, then go with 1" pvc to the pump.


That does not apply to drains though...

 

[spaulr]

I'm sooooooo glad you brought that up. I was planning on drilling my 40 gallon tank and putting in a 1" bulkhead for the closed loop. I have an old aqua system tank in that it actually has a sump built into it along the back (no space for a skimmer though), so I was planning on drilling another 1" bulkhead in the built in sump area for the "real" 10-20 gallon sump w/skimmer below. The whole sump in the tank is an entirely different issue in that I kinda want to dremmel the entire thing out for space....but that will be another post. :lol:

With your last few words "That does not apply to drains though..." does that mean I should upgrade to the 2" pvc, or make my bulkhead there bigger, or stick with 1"?

 

[Anonymous]

A drain is different because the only thing that is pushing water through it is gravity. There are guidelines out there for how many gallons per hour you can realistically expect for a drain to handle. Check a site that sells overflow kits, they normally have the GPH listed.


Figure how much water you want running through the sump, and then size your drain line and return pump accordingly.

Its better to do it that way than the way I did. I just used 1" bulkheads and then had to use both of them for the sump drains so that I could keep up with the flow from the huge return pump I bought.

I should of planned better

 

[spaulr]

What would be the optimum sump flow rate for a 40 gallon? I already have a 10 gallon tank, but might move to a 20 gallon for more water volume. Then use the 10 gallon as a top off.

I'm going to have a fair amount of flow from the CL... I may even have to dial back the pump using a ball valve.

 

[Anonymous]

I must be doing a fair job of this cause noone else is chiming in....


If you have a skimmer then make the flow through your sump a bit more than the GPH on your skimmer.

that sounds good.

You just need enough flow to the sump to carry all the junk down there.

Too much flow and you are going to have noise problems

 

[spaulr]

Just ordered the pan world pump, 1" bulkhead, and a strainer for 1" pipe. Hopefully I'll get that stuff in this week to start the plumbing.

I know I need to use 2 unions around my closed loop pump for maintenance. What kind did you use?

True Union ball valve threaded, true union ball valve slip? Those puppies are $$$$!!!

 

[Anonymous]

I used a true union ball valve slip.

yeah, they are expensive.


You can save a bunch by using a couple of unions, and a separate ball valve.

 

[spaulr]

Just bought 2 union ball joints - threaded both sides - not the true union type. These cost enough. I figured I only needed to get to the pump side anyhow.

Others behind me at home depot were not happy about the other 30 fittings I bought in the self checkout line.

I'm going to try to get everything together in the next few days. I need to buy a holesaw for the 1" bulkhead as well (1/4" plexi tank).

 

[Anonymous]

Ohh, I hate those self checkout things....

Although I did get some stuff free once because it didn't scan it right, and the girl was standing there helping me....

 

[spaulr]

Just finished drilling for the closed loop intake. Man, I am sooooo glad I drilled a pilot hole first (even though the 1 3/4" hole saw had a drill bit)!!!! I pilot hole ended up chipping the acrylic on the inside. DOH. So, when I was almost through from the backside I became a yoga master and drilled the rest from the inside. Nice clean hole. You just have to remember not to press hard. See pic.

 

[spaulr]

One thing I did screw up is that I really did not like the fact that the bulkhead stuck out about 3 inches past the tank. So, I modified it.....with a hacksaw. I know you are all smiling about now , but I really did check where the inner thread stopped. I think I cut it a bit too small (go figure) and ~3/4" off. It really didn't solve my original problem. I think I'm going to look for a 1.5" T that can screw onto the bulkhead. That way I can keep the plumbing "stickout" to a minimum.

Sound like a bad idea.

Bulkheads are ~$6 at marinedepot so I could always get another one....

 

[spaulr]

Finished my closed loop intake. Nothing has been glued, just fitted the pieces. Look OK?

 

[spaulr]

One last pic.

 

[Anonymous]

Looks good to me

What is the Tee in the line for?


I do have a suggestion for you though, have you turned that pump on?

I found that mine hummed a lot fastened to the plywood directly.

I ended up putting a layer of rubber underneath it to sort of isolate it.

 

[spaulr]

The blueline or Panworld pumps need to be primed. I added the T with the other 90 so I could fill the line prior to starting the pump.

I actually have an old mouse pad that I was planning on using under the foothold of the pump. Hopefully that will keep the humming to a minimum.

 

[Anonymous]

Sounds good.

 

[spaulr]

I was wondering if anyone had used ocean motions omni flex nozzles. They look pretty cool, although the $$$$ stood out as well. Being that my tank is a 40 gallon the openings are pretty small and PVC fittings do't look so nice to me. Any ideas or alternatives? The 1" omni flex nozzles are $23-. And I'd need 2.

2nd part. Anyone ever made a spray bar? Do they work and are they worth it? Or would another inlet be the way to go?