Maxi-Jet "stream" mod
- Thread starter bleedingthought
- Start date
I did break my impeller to make the mod, I just stripped it down to use the magnet. I had taken all of my powerheads out of my tank when I installed my closed loops (which is why I had a few extra laying around) so I figure I could risk breaking one if I screwed up.
I used the Dumas 3004 prop, and the mod was on a MJ 1200. Only because I have several of them already. If I was going to buy a new MJ to mod I'd probably go with a 900.
My name is Marcus
I used the Dumas 3004 prop, and the mod was on a MJ 1200. Only because I have several of them already. If I was going to buy a new MJ to mod I'd probably go with a 900.
My name is Marcus
Do you have a DSB? I have 3 1200s already also. I was just wondering if two of them 4 feet from each other in my 75G would be two much for my sand to handle...PitPat":3cp0bl5n said:I did break my impeller to make the mod, I just stripped it down to use the magnet. I had taken all of my powerheads out of my tank when I installed my closed loops (which is why I had a few extra laying around) so I figure I could risk breaking one if I screwed up.
I used the Dumas 3004 prop, and the mod was on a MJ 1200. Only because I have several of them already. If I was going to buy a new MJ to mod I'd probably go with a 900.
My name is Marcus
And thanks for all the help, Marcus!
I have a bare bottom my 120, and my maxijet mod is pointed straight down in a back corner (which has the bonus that I don't have to make a mount for it, I can just use the regular maxijet bracket).
Two of these facing each other in a 75 might be tough on a DSB. I'd start out with just one and see how your tank handles it (or you could remove your DSB ).
I'd think a mature sandbed would be fine with one. My 65 has a sandbed (though not a particularly deep one), I'll let you know tomorrow how it handles one modded MJ1200 (the 65 is only 3 ft long).
Two of these facing each other in a 75 might be tough on a DSB. I'd start out with just one and see how your tank handles it (or you could remove your DSB
). I'd think a mature sandbed would be fine with one. My 65 has a sandbed (though not a particularly deep one), I'll let you know tomorrow how it handles one modded MJ1200 (the 65 is only 3 ft long).
I am thinking about adding a few of these in my 300G to supplement my Tunze 6200's.
I'd actually like a couple more 6200's, but don't want to spend the bread to get them.
I'd put these in the back and out of sight, so it wouldn't really matter how they look.
Louey
I'd actually like a couple more 6200's, but don't want to spend the bread to get them.
I'd put these in the back and out of sight, so it wouldn't really matter how they look.
Louey
Laura and I made 2 of the carbon-fiber maxijet mods last night, but we let them sit overnight so the glue could fully dry. So I won't know how it performs in the 65 until tonight when I get home from work.
The carbon fiber is easier to work with than the steel, its easier to cut at least. We will see how it performs.
The carbon fiber is easier to work with than the steel, its easier to cut at least. We will see how it performs.
I was actually wondering what the difference in the two materials would be. I've heard that carbon fiber is less noisy. If that's the case, I'm just going to go with carbon fiber instead of both. I didn't understand why they would include both in the package.
Let us know how it performs and post pics if you can!
Let us know how it performs and post pics if you can!
I went ahead an order a 4-pack kit with the large shroud. I really only need two for my tank, but I could always soup up a MJ for my saltwater mixing vat (130G) and my kalk/make-up water container (32G's). I might as well soup those up. The extra mixing is free since I doubt that the modified MJ's eat up any more power.
Louey
Louey
Well, the carbon fiber maxijet mod doesn't seem to be any quieter. It sounds different, but I think it makes about the same amount of noise. Since it is easier to work with I think its probably preferable for that reason, but I really can't see any performance difference.
I put another one of these modded maxis on the back of my 120 pointing straight down. Two of those pointed down in the back, in addition to the return and the closed loop really churn up that tank. If the 2000 gph estimates are close to accurate, I figure my tank now has over 50x turnover.
In the 65 we placed the modded maxijet at the top in the back corner so that it blew across the back glass. It really didn't disturb the sand much at all. So I think you might be able to get away with 2 in a 75 without too much trouble. This morning when I looked at the 65 our foxface rabbit fish was stuck up against the intake of the pump. I don't think he was there for very long, but I think we might take the pump out of that tank. He is a really docile fish and likes to wedge himself places, and apparently when he wedges next to the pump he can't get away.
I can't post pictures until next week. (I don't have internet at my new house yet, and I can't upload anything to my work computer). When I get my computer at home connected (should be next Tuesday), I'll post a bunch of pics.
I put another one of these modded maxis on the back of my 120 pointing straight down. Two of those pointed down in the back, in addition to the return and the closed loop really churn up that tank. If the 2000 gph estimates are close to accurate, I figure my tank now has over 50x turnover.
In the 65 we placed the modded maxijet at the top in the back corner so that it blew across the back glass. It really didn't disturb the sand much at all. So I think you might be able to get away with 2 in a 75 without too much trouble. This morning when I looked at the 65 our foxface rabbit fish was stuck up against the intake of the pump. I don't think he was there for very long, but I think we might take the pump out of that tank. He is a really docile fish and likes to wedge himself places, and apparently when he wedges next to the pump he can't get away.
I can't post pictures until next week. (I don't have internet at my new house yet, and I can't upload anything to my work computer). When I get my computer at home connected (should be next Tuesday), I'll post a bunch of pics.
Hey, Pitpat,
Can you tell me how long the rigid airline and SS shaft for the new shaft is supposed to be?
The instuction at http://www.reefchili.com/advanced.html don't specify the lenght. I want to do version two. Actually, I have to do version two now as I have already taken my MJ impeller apart and seprated the magnet from the other parts.
Louey
Can you tell me how long the rigid airline and SS shaft for the new shaft is supposed to be?
The instuction at http://www.reefchili.com/advanced.html don't specify the lenght. I want to do version two. Actually, I have to do version two now as I have already taken my MJ impeller apart and seprated the magnet from the other parts.
Louey
Okay, I understand the shaft lenght now. Thanks.
My shroud didn't come pre-drilled for the acrylic rod stopper. The MJ Mods website says:
And the site says this regarding the prop:
So if I drill a hole 1/8" below the top of the shroud, then glue the prop on the rigid airline just below, it will work?
I guess I really don't understand how the acrylic stopper works. I assume I must mount the prop on the airline so that it doesnt' bump into the stopper.
Anyone got any suggestions as to how this thing should go together?
Thanks!
Louey
My shroud didn't come pre-drilled for the acrylic rod stopper. The MJ Mods website says:
And the site says this regarding the prop:
So if I drill a hole 1/8" below the top of the shroud, then glue the prop on the rigid airline just below, it will work?
I guess I really don't understand how the acrylic stopper works. I assume I must mount the prop on the airline so that it doesnt' bump into the stopper.
Anyone got any suggestions as to how this thing should go together?
Thanks!
Louey
Well, like I said, haven't done it myself yet. But I do know that the stopper works because when the maxijet's direction changes, it pushes the prop to the end where it'll hit the stopper and change direction again, going back to it's normal position.
Where's Marcus been though? I'm sure he'll walk you through this thing!
Where's Marcus been though? I'm sure he'll walk you through this thing!
Sorry!
Until yesterday I didn't have internet access at my house and haven't been here much.
I cut my shaft so that the prop was just past the slits in the shroud (if that makes sense). So it sits a decent ways back from the end cap.
The acrylic rod sits near the end of the cap and basically it is something the prop slams into if it starts spinning the wrong way (if you have ever cut the nozzle off the end of a mj you know how when they fire up they either spin clockwise or counter-clockwise). So with a prop, if it spins one way the water will shoot out the end (like you want), and the pressure will be pushing the prop back toward the pump... but... if it starts spinning the wrong way, water gets shot toward the pump, and the prop will want to climb back toward the cap. The idea then is that it will slam into the acrylic rod and change directions (and it works).
That being said, the rod is not essential. In my first attempt I made the prop shaft too long, and the acrylic rod too short and they hit each other. So I cut the rod out. So when I start it up if the prop starts spinning the wrong way I stick my finger in the end and manually make it spin the other way (that does kinda hurt though). As long as the power stays on to the pump it will keep spinning in the right direction as long as nothing gets in it (I had a piece of nori get sucked into my pump and that made it change direction).
I apologize again for not seeing this earlier.
I have internet access at home again, so when I get home from work I can post pics of my mods and the various associated parts.
I'd be happy to help out with any other questions anyone might have.
-Marcus
Until yesterday I didn't have internet access at my house and haven't been here much.
I cut my shaft so that the prop was just past the slits in the shroud (if that makes sense). So it sits a decent ways back from the end cap.
The acrylic rod sits near the end of the cap and basically it is something the prop slams into if it starts spinning the wrong way (if you have ever cut the nozzle off the end of a mj you know how when they fire up they either spin clockwise or counter-clockwise). So with a prop, if it spins one way the water will shoot out the end (like you want), and the pressure will be pushing the prop back toward the pump... but... if it starts spinning the wrong way, water gets shot toward the pump, and the prop will want to climb back toward the cap. The idea then is that it will slam into the acrylic rod and change directions (and it works).
That being said, the rod is not essential. In my first attempt I made the prop shaft too long, and the acrylic rod too short and they hit each other. So I cut the rod out. So when I start it up if the prop starts spinning the wrong way I stick my finger in the end and manually make it spin the other way (that does kinda hurt though). As long as the power stays on to the pump it will keep spinning in the right direction as long as nothing gets in it (I had a piece of nori get sucked into my pump and that made it change direction).
I apologize again for not seeing this earlier.
I have internet access at home again, so when I get home from work I can post pics of my mods and the various associated parts.
I'd be happy to help out with any other questions anyone might have.
-Marcus
Okay Marcus. Thanks I think I understand now.
Sounds like I need to make sure that I put the prop back far enough that it doesn't bump into the stopper when it is spinning in the correct direction.
No need to apoligize for not reponding when your internet was down. This board is voluntary, right?
Louey
Sounds like I need to make sure that I put the prop back far enough that it doesn't bump into the stopper when it is spinning in the correct direction.
No need to apoligize for not reponding when your internet was down.
This board is voluntary, right? Louey
I dunno... sometimes it feels compulsory, but I think I might just be addicted.
Correct.
There are lots of placements that would be acceptable, I just would make sure that it sits in front of the slits in the shroud so that all of the water flows in the slits and out the endcap.
Louey":1zra66rh said:
Correct.
There are lots of placements that would be acceptable, I just would make sure that it sits in front of the slits in the shroud so that all of the water flows in the slits and out the endcap.
Hey man, good to see you again! Glad to know that you have internet again and will post pictures soon! Will be waiting for those!
Anyways, post pictures when you can! You make this sound pretty easy, which is sometimes necessary for me. :wink:
And Louey, post some pics of yours if you can, also! And in tank shot would be great, since we all love your tank!
But I've read that when this happens, the prop spinning backwards, it's a large deal of suction happening which can drag fish and others into it, right? So if this were to happen when you're out of the house, it could turn into a nightmare! I actually have had my MJs (with the tips cut off) change directions on me when I'm at work for no apparent reason (maybe a small power glitch). That would be a bad thing to come home to with the tunze mod!PitPat":1qlmi3k3 said:
Anyways, post pictures when you can! You make this sound pretty easy, which is sometimes necessary for me. :wink:
And Louey, post some pics of yours if you can, also! And in tank shot would be great, since we all love your tank!
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