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Trouble Maker!
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I moved over labor day and my plans for the tank move went kablooey. I had to move my tank in about 2 1/2 hours. Needless to say, I lost almost everything. I seriously thought about putting the rock and the couple of corals I had left up for sale and get out of the reef obsession. But I decided to give it another go as I had a lot of new stuff for the tank waiting for an upgrage from my 30 to a 40 breeder. Some of you might remember my posts on the Sump/Fuge I built and the SCWD mod among others posted here. Anyway I have the sump up and running and other than one little issue with noise it's working great. I already have plans to fix this problem. I'm happy to say my tank is on the mend, now I just have to replace the boatload of Zoa's and Rics I lost!

Well back to the subject at hand. I have run this tank with just a carboard canopy since day one so I started building a temporary one to work out the bugs before building one for the 40. While looking for some stuff still in boxes I found my old strip of Moonlights and decided to add some to the new canopy. Now half the fun of reefing to me is building stuff rather than buying it. (Just ask KathyC)

So here is my new Moonlight build.

The stuff needed to make them.
LED's, a 3VDC Transformer, Solder and Gun, 5 minute Epoxy (somehow did'nt make it into the pic), Some thin wire, scrap 1/2" MDF and some scrap Masonite.
P1010007Medium.jpg


The Masonite is 1"x12" with 5 holes drilled for the LED's. After placing the LED's in the holes, bend the leads across the Masonite. Above the masonite you can see the strips of wire I cut to connect them. This wire was Galvanized, so I had to run it through a piece of folded sandpaper to remove the Galvanizing in order for the solder to stick.
P1010008Medium.jpg

Now I took the wire strips and wrapped them around one end of the Masonite and then pulled it tightly to the other end and wrapped it again.
P1010009Medium.jpg

In this picture you see the front of the Masonite where I wrapped the wire.
P1010010Medium.jpg

I also wrapped the extra wire from the LED's to hold them tight for soldering, again a front view.
P1010012Medium.jpg

Now just solder the leads from the LED's to the connecting wire. Remember to keep the Short leads of the LED's all to the same side as they can't be switched from Positive to negative.

After it was soldered together I bent it in this arch shape to hold the LED's tight to the Masonite for epoxying when you rewrap the connecting wires.
P1010011Medium.jpg

A very bad pic, but the Masonite is sealed with a Signpainters clear and
the front faces are painted flat white and the LED's are epoxied in place.
P1010013Medium.jpg

In this pic I am epoxying the mounting tabs to one end. These were just scrap pieces of 1/2" MDF cut to 1"x1/2". I epoxied this side over the connecting wires to use as tabs to solder the Transformer leads to. You need to be pretty liberal with the epoxy here so you fill the gap made by the wire.
P1010014Medium.jpg

Now just epoxy the mounting tab to the other side and drill holes through the the Masonite and MDF tabs for your mounting screw, solder the transformer leads and you are done.

The mounted and lit Moonlights.
P1010015Medium.jpg

Total cost $15 and I have 80 Led's left.

They look fantastic when on. The only problem is positioning them so they are not blocked by my PC Actinic, but with such a small tank it's the best I can do, this is not a problem with the design of the lights but with the limited space of the 30 gallon tank. I thought there would be a dark area in the center from where my MH is, but this did not happen. The halide is mounted under the center brace and is just visible in the pic. They will work much better once I have the additional 6" the 40 Br. will give me.
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
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NY
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Dave, as usual, great DIY and great instructions.

Let me ask you though, in such a high humidity environment, do you think the masonite and MDF will hold up long term? The masonite in particular I think will act like a sponge and swell (the MDF too, but will take longer).

The lights look great. Bet it makes for a nice nighttime visual.

Russ

BTW, nice to see you back again.
 

KathyC

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Barnum Island
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The DIY master returns! Good one Dave. I'm at a fish conference this weekend and saw a presentation on moonlights and the benefits of having them on a tank. Your fish will be very happy with those! :)

Might be in NJ next weekend..lmk if you want some zoas & rics to help get you back on your feet. Glad you stayed with the hobby.


Let me ask you though, in such a high humidity environment, do you think the masonite and MDF will hold up long term?

Russ, remember you're asking a guy who had a cardboard canopy! You should have seen the duct tape fish tank he made on a dare! lol
 

Psycho graphic

Trouble Maker!
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I agree that the high humidty would destroy these materials in their bare state, this is why I clear them. I have a MDF canopy for my old 10g fuge that I cleared with the same paint as I used on this and it has been in use for over a year with no swelling. Go figure, the fuge had a somewhat real canopy but the DT had a carboard one!

When I do these the next time I think I'll make the strips out of Acrylic. I had none on hand and started this project at about 10pm last night and the stores were all closed, so I used what i had on hand.

Where in NJ are you going to be Kathy and when?

The reason for 3V Transformer is that is what these LED's are rated for, I don't know if you can "overdrive" LED's.
 
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I agree that the high humidty would destroy these materials in their bare state, this is why I clear them. I have a MDF canopy for my old 10g fuge that I cleared with the same paint as I used on this and it has been in use for over a year with no swelling. Go figure, the fuge had a somewhat real canopy but the DT had a carboard one!

When I do these the next time I think I'll make the strips out of Acrylic. I had none on hand and started this project at about 10pm last night and the stores were all closed, so I used what i had on hand.

Where in NJ are you going to be Kathy and when?

The reason for 3V Transformer is that is what these LED's are rated for, I don't know if you can "overdrive" LED's.

99.9999 percent of the times the blue LED are rated for 3.XXV. I bet 3V is just a convenience number the supplier tells you. Your light could be doubled if you can get the actual optimized voltage(or better yet optimized current thru the diodes)

I am upset you have forgotten me about acrylics, give a call I have plenty. If it's for DIY, you can call me anytime. It's fun to DIY things together. BTW, if you are really rush in making another one and once again you don't have acrylics, consider using scrap eggcrate strip. I did most of my prototype using it.
 
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Psycho graphic

Trouble Maker!
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I will keep you in mind when I do the next set. Can you shoot me a price on say 12"x1"x1/8" clear or black and some pieces 1"x1"x1/2"?

It sounds like you know about electronics. I think the max Forward Voltage for these LED's is 3.6v. Could I just get a transistor to drop a 12v Power supply to 3.6v? Would you happen to know what the ratings would be on said resistor?


Galvanized wire is not bare wire. They are insulated.
Actually it is a coated bare wire, it's not insulated.
 

yeahcheetah

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Location
Long Island
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Good job, but I have a simpler way. Just buy a water-proof LED strip that's used on cars (go with the ones that have a sticky back side) from ebay and hook it up to a 12V DC converter, then viola, there goes your LED array! I have two stripes installed on my lamp. They are really small so won't block anything.

This is exactly what I have: http://cgi.ebay.com/120cm-Under-Car...yZ102560QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem, picture the underexposed because mine is a lot brighter. It is amazing how expensive these can go in the US, I got 2 strips like this from China for about 12USD.
 

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