I recently acquired a 3/4'' thick acrylic tank. What tools do I need to drill it? Any tutorial links out there? Many of the search hits on MR seem to be on only glass aquariums and wether or not if its tempered. Thank you in advance,
how to drill acrylic
- Thread starter kigs
- Start date
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
depending on size of the hole
you could use a unibit by irwin (usually up to 1")
or a good quality hole saw
you could use a unibit by irwin (usually up to 1")
or a good quality hole saw
when i dyi my sump i used a jig saw, but i was doing straight lines, im assuming u can drill a circular hole as well, because its depend on the a blade you use
the key is to put yellow masking tape over the area your are cutting, it will give you a smooth edge
the key is to put yellow masking tape over the area your are cutting, it will give you a smooth edge
- Location
- Greenpoint Brooklyn, NY
Use a newer unibit or a newer hole saw (newer = sharper = less melting and chipping). when your using a hole saw pre drill the guide drill hole first when you don't have a backing under where your drilling because when it hits through the opposite side its going to pull the bit in. When you have a hole saw attached when it pulls in its going to slam against the acrylic and chip and in some cases shatter the acrylic on thinner walled tanks.
When your using a unibit type hole saw make sure you release alot of the pressure right before you bit the opposite side as it can take out a chunk out of the back side of the acrylic as the blade gets stuck. Let the blade do the work not your muscles.
Stay away from hand tools to cut straight lines for assembly as your never gonna get a perfect straight edge and it won;'t be 90 degrees. For small projects for baffles or something thats fine if you don't have access to better machinery but for assembling water holding tanks its not a good idea. The masking tape prevents chip ups from the blade your using for that was designed to cut wood and not acrylic. When your getting new plexy with the paper protection on it the masking tape isn't needed. Also, if your going to be running the plexi through a table saw try to stay with a sharper newer blade, both ATB and TC grinds work but TC or the solid surface blades are the best, and keep the blade shallow so its hitting the plexi at 45 degrees or less and run it through moderately slow. The sharper the blade the less work its doing and the cooler the blade stays giivng you a cleaner cut that your not going to have spend time sanding later. You should be seeing plexi dust or snow flakes when your sawing and not melted plastic strands flying all over the place.
Anyways thats the proper way of cutting the acrylic.
When your using a unibit type hole saw make sure you release alot of the pressure right before you bit the opposite side as it can take out a chunk out of the back side of the acrylic as the blade gets stuck. Let the blade do the work not your muscles.
Stay away from hand tools to cut straight lines for assembly as your never gonna get a perfect straight edge and it won;'t be 90 degrees. For small projects for baffles or something thats fine if you don't have access to better machinery but for assembling water holding tanks its not a good idea. The masking tape prevents chip ups from the blade your using for that was designed to cut wood and not acrylic. When your getting new plexy with the paper protection on it the masking tape isn't needed. Also, if your going to be running the plexi through a table saw try to stay with a sharper newer blade, both ATB and TC grinds work but TC or the solid surface blades are the best, and keep the blade shallow so its hitting the plexi at 45 degrees or less and run it through moderately slow. The sharper the blade the less work its doing and the cooler the blade stays giivng you a cleaner cut that your not going to have spend time sanding later. You should be seeing plexi dust or snow flakes when your sawing and not melted plastic strands flying all over the place.
Anyways thats the proper way of cutting the acrylic.
Thank you for the tips everyone. On my way to work, I stopped by the local Ace hardware store and this is what they told me will work with acrylic.
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/great-neck-7-in1-hole-saw-fits-all-14-or-larger-p-13223.html
"
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/great-neck-7-in1-hole-saw-fits-all-14-or-larger-p-13223.html
"
- GREAT NECK 7 IN-1 HOLE SAW
- Fits all 1/4 or larger
- electric drills and drill
- presses
- Cuts holes: 1, 1-1/4,
- 1-1/2, 1-3/4, 2, 2-1/4
- and 2-1/2
- Use on wood, prestwood or
- plastics up to 3/4 thick
- Automatic slug-ejector
- prevents clogging
- Built-in blade selector
- Carded
- Discovery CON, NBR, SUP, HWU
- 3/4 Depth"
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
I would NOT use that hole saw! it's not one of your better made tools
I use only LENOX hole saws little pricey but u get what you pay for
http://www.nextag.com/lenox-hole-saw/search-html
I use only LENOX hole saws little pricey but u get what you pay for
http://www.nextag.com/lenox-hole-saw/search-html
Yikes...figures. On my way to return it now...
And for the unibits, I should just order these? http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100040
And for the unibits, I should just order these? http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100040
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
Yikes...figures. On my way to return it now...
I've never used those unibits I've always used the step variety
maybe someone else can chime in
- Location
- Greenpoint Brooklyn, NY
I thought by the unibits he meant the spade bits. The outside brads guide the hole and cut a nice edge and the middle blades shave out the hole itself. Probably your best bet for anything up to 1 1/2" otherwise you gotto go with the hole saws. Larger 2+" spade blades will get stuck and grab on you.
These are the links to both type that will work. don't waste your time with anything else. The step bits and unibits will not work the right way.
Spade = cheaper
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=170987-281-88824BX&lpage=none
Hole Saw
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=296749-28303-12244.0&lpage=none
Remember to pre drill the guide drillbit hole for the hole saw or your gonna mess your tank up.
Enjoy.
These are the links to both type that will work. don't waste your time with anything else. The step bits and unibits will not work the right way.
Spade = cheaper
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=170987-281-88824BX&lpage=none
Hole Saw
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=296749-28303-12244.0&lpage=none
Remember to pre drill the guide drillbit hole for the hole saw or your gonna mess your tank up.
Enjoy.
Thank you for the links tosiek! I'm going to stop by Lowes to see if they have those in stock.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
spade bits are not ideal for cutting acrylic
especially using a hand drill!
they are easily cocked will bind and shatter the acrylic
stay with the step unibits for small holes under 1"
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=60140-281-10239SM
and the lenox hole saws for the larger holes
Last edited by a moderator:
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
forstner bits work great in a drill press
I'd be very weary of using it in a hand drill fearing it might bind if you cock the drill.
the irwin unibit is stepped it guides it's self down sort of self centering because of the shape
I am by no means an expert in acrylic but I've done my fair share of acrylic work and by the same token ruined my fair share of acrylic projects
I've learned the hard way to drill before assembly nothing s**ks more than completing a project and cracking it while drilling
I'm sure people have had sucess drilling holes in acrylic with ordinary drill bits and spade bits but that doesnt mean everyone can do it.
I would hate to give someone advice only to find that they damaged their tank especially when there are safer, easier, more efficient ways of doing it
If using any hole saws or drill bits, it is best when you water cool them as you're doing them. Plexi melts pretty quick when applied with high speed drilling. A little bit of water as your score the plexi every now and again and it should cut fairly well. And stay steady! Don't push it to cut fast and easy.
Placing a wood block backing will prevent chipout and cracking. For a completed tank or sump, turn the side where you want to hole to a piece of plywood, drill the hold from inside of the tank outward with the plywood as a backing.
Works the same on glass tanks and tile bits.
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