Ideas for reducing spray from overflow downpipe (durso)

[Anonymous]

I had a similar problem because the water from my overflow drops about 10 feet before it gets to my sump. I built something resembling a counter-current skimmer using a 4" PVC pipe. The width of the pipe slows the water sufficiently to allow the bubbles to rise.

I'm thinking with 10" you'd have to use something a lot wider. Something like a covered bucket for the water to dump into instead of directly into the sump. The splashing would take place inside the bucket. Setting the bucket inside the sump just below water level if possible with several 1" holes in the bottom could disperse the water in a calmer, more orderly fashion and reduce bubbles & splashes.

 

[Len]

Unfortunately, I don't have the space (footprint wise) to get something like that in there. My skimmer occupies that space in the sump. My cabinet is very cramped since I have all my gear in there.

 

[ChrisRD]

This is one of the reasons I don't like using Dursos anymore...

On the upside (as I'm sure you remember), the bubble thing improves significantly once things get good-n-slimy...

OK, I'm done being unhelpful in your thread... :wink:

 

[Len]

Hey Chris, may I ask how your overflow piping is designed now?

 

[Anonymous]

Try a plastic bag with several holes cut in the bottom. Accomplishes sort of what a filter bag does without the detritus trap issues.

 

[Anonymous]

I will post a pic of what I have later

Its sort of like a bucket but way way smaller.

Mine is more like a bubble trap though...

 

[ChrisRD]

Hey Chris, may I ask how your overflow piping is designed now?

IMO the in-sump bubble/turbulence/noise thing is a bit of a pain with any setup that sucks in air. People have come-up with various plumbing configurations to get around it but personally, if I was after the quietest sump setup possible I'd go a different way.

After setting-up a test tank and experimenting with a bunch of different configurations I'm of the opinion that, by far, the quietest setup is the old gate-valve-on-the-drain method. Since there is no air entrainment into the drain line, it seems to be the easiest way to run as much flow as you want while keeping things totally quiet with virtually no bubble problem.

Of course the one caveat is that you have to design the system around the possibility of a clogged drain due to the restriction point, but with some planning that's not all that hard to do (ex. plumb a bypass drain, setup the sump so there's not enough water available to the return pump to flood the tank, etc.).

Of course at this point you're setup for Dursos so this probably isn't helpful... :wink:

JMO of course...

 

[Len]

Well, I could always cut off the top T, or plug up the elbow and let the water flow in from the top (with the cap removed)

I used the valve method on my previous 120. It was pretty quite, but there was a couple of times it got stuck. Once, my tang somehow jumped into the overflow and died Its body was sucked onto the downpipe's opening, which of course blocked most of the water throughput. Not surprisingly, the tank overflowed. Cleaning up 10 gallons off hardwood (which warped a bit) is no fun. But this can happen with the durso too (though I plan on adding a long strainer). ANother time, a snail went down the chute and was crammed into the valve area. This caused another overflow but I caught the problem quickly (I was in the neighboring room when I heard weird noises).

 

[Anonymous]

Good call Chris. I showed you this before:

Baically if you want to restrict the drain line, do it just above the sump, then create your emergency drainline right above it. This is how my tank used to be setup. The lower valve restricts the flow. The top valve is unnecessary. In case of a blockage, the flow will be diverted out the tee to the refugium on the left.

HTH,
Matt

 

[Anonymous]

And I would suggest not doing an open standpipe if at all possible.

Just drill a bunch (like 20) of 1/4" holes near the top of your standpipe, and then cap it. That way nothing larger than 1/4" can get in their to get stuck.

 

[Len]

Hmmm. I might cut off the durso then.

Hey Matt, does some water splash out from the T'ed area if the top valve is open?

 

[Len]

Oh, one more question for the restricted gate valve method: You guys think there's any benefit or problems if I kept the 1 1/4" standpipe as is, or replace it with 1"? My old tank (with the gate valve method) had 1" all the way through.

 

[Anonymous]

Keep the bigger pipe.

 

[Anonymous]

Hmmm. I might cut off the durso then.

Hey Matt, does some water splash out from the T'ed area if the top valve is open?

Nope.

If both valves are fully open, the top tee actually sucks water or air in (the whole Bernoulli thing). When I first started it up it was siphoning my refugium into the sump. :lol:

As you close the bottom valve to quiet the noise some might trickle out, but it doesn't on mine. YMMV.

 

[Len]

Okay, next question: what's the chances of it sucking air in? That kinda defeats the purpose of what I want to do

 

[Anonymous]

Well as you close the bottom valve it stops sucking air in. It works, you just have to trust me...

Hoohoohaha

 

[ChrisRD]

If you submerge the outlet of the bypass drain it won't be able to suck in air.

 

[Len]

Well, okay then! I have things to do this weekend 8)

 

[Len]

I actually tuned the durso so that it no longer draws in air. I've essentially much used the valve approch with my durso (mine is a ball valve though, harder to adjust precisely). Now the siphon rate with the air intake valve closed is exactly the same as the overflow/pump rate.