TROUBLE with Phosphates need help.

[johnfluevogs]

Phosphates seem to be the death of my hard corals (turbinaria and Cap).

I once had a phosphate problem that was killing my cap and I added a PhosBan Phosphate filter thingy (cant think of the name right now) and my tank instantly survived.

I am again facing the same problem, I test positive for phosphates (0.1) and after much discussion and thought, think that it is causing me the trouble. Have others run into this same problem? If so I need help and lots of suggestions. Thanks.

 

[Drew Nietert]

For high phosphate I am told to do three things:
1. Water change - biggest key
2. Replace filter media immediately, then weekly thereafter
3. Use a product like phosban media in your filtration
Phosban media can take up to two weeks to filter out all the phosphate. If the problem is really bad there is another product that fixes it immediately - Phos-Buster Pro, but I can't say from personal experience that it works - though many say that is does.

 

[Drew Nietert]

One more thing,
The water change seems to be the preferred method by experienced aquarist.

If it is high, and .1 is pretty high, I have been told up to a 50% water change immediately.

Hope your tank isn't to big!

 

[Drew Nietert]

I just noticed your tank specs, a 10G sump & refugium! How do you have any problems?

I have a 30G I just turned into a Reef two weeks ago and plan on adding a refugium and sump - as well. How has this setup worked for you and for how long? Can you give me more info on the Sump and Refugium set ups?

Thanks,

Drew

 

[johnfluevogs]

I honestly dont know how I have a phosphate problem, thats why it is a problem.

About the 30g cube, its sorta complicated and would be better off if I posted Pictures but for sake of argument...

I drilled 2 1.5 drains in the center back a few inches down from the top, built a custom overflow box from black acrylic and siliconed it around the drains. The two drains are then routed down into one of the 10 gallons. They feed into a fliter sock. In that 10 gallon I have a CPR sump skimmer, then a baffle and then a bulk head to which feeds my return pump (Little Giant mdx3).

The 10 gallon refuigum sits next to it a few inches higher. It is fe by a maxi-jet power head (900 or 1200). There are two 3/4 bulkhead that drain the water fromthe refugium back into the sump. Therefore the refugium gets a nice gently cycle completly separate from my filtration system.

As for returns I have 3 3/4 returns drilled inthe back of the tank one on either side of my overflow box at the top of the tank and one more in the center bottom. I found that with so many exits the velocity of the flow is drastically reduced...even though I am pushing 5-600gph. So since each return is controlled by a ball valve i usually have one turned all the way off. Some times i change them to change up the flow in the tank.

I will try to post pictures soon.

 

[melas]

check your RO water (assuming you are using RO) - you may need to replace your membranes. also what are you feeding and are you feeding to much? overfeeding is a key source of phosphates in a tank. also feeding meaty foods like brine shrimp (which are worthless anyway) can cause phospates to rise. water changes are good only as long as the water you are changing with is phospate free! good luck!

 

[johnfluevogs]

I do use RO water and I have used a TDS meter and I get 0ppm which is good.

I also feed brine shrimp and other stuff. I try to feed once a day between brine shrimp, cylopeez, phyto. Should I scale way back on my feedings.

I have One clown, a goby, emerald crab.

torch, frogspawn, merulina, turbinaria, cap, open brain, zoos, green leather, 2 clams.

 

[melas]

well that would definitely help. i have a heavily stocked 120gal reef. i run phosban in a DIY reactor 24/7. the only way i can keep the peace in my tank is to keep everyone well fed (2 feedings /day). with only three small fish and a crab i don't think you need to feed very much. daily feedings are good just decrease the quantity of each feeding. phosban works really well in my opinon. it does take a few days to see a measurable difference but it DOES work.

 

[johnfluevogs]

well i will start cutting back my feedings.

I just changed my phos ban media sat so I will keep you informed how its doing.

Thanks again.

 

[Anonymous]

I also feed brine shrimp

Bingo. Are you rinsing them first? All foods add phosphate but a few brands of frozen Brine Shrimp add extra phosphate. Maybe it's a preservative or something I don't know but they have a big load of PO4 as compared to their measly nutritional value.

 

[johnfluevogs]

So do I rinse the food with RO water and then Strain it somehow??

 

[Anonymous]

So do I rinse the food with RO water and then Strain it somehow??

That's what a lot of people do. You could also just simply stop feeding Brine Shrimp, they're not the best food to begin with.

Personally, I grind up the food myself so I know I'm not adding extra phosphate.

 

[Anonymous]

So do I rinse the food with RO water and then Strain it somehow??

When I feed foods like that I thaw it out in a cup of tank water, then dump the whole thing into a small net held over the toilet or sink. That strains the juice out, and you can swish the net in the tank.

You could pour a cup of water over it in the net to rinse more thoroughly.

 

[johnfluevogs]

I will try rinsing my foor from now on. Thanks.


??? How come these feeding teqniques are effecting my tank more so than some others, (i.e. Friends 65)? Is it because my tank is so small?

 

[jusreefin]

Those frozen foods are your culprit. Do like Laura D said and you will notice a big diff.

 

[drbdc]

I replied on the other thread and I'm too lazy to type it again here.

http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... highlight=

 

[johnfluevogs]

so its been a week or so and my phosphate did go down and then right back up. The only thing that is added eveyday is my auto top off RO. I tested my RO water again tonight and it tested positive for phosphates.

My ro system is only 5 months old... is it time to change some membranes. I herd the DI part is what causes the Phosphate spike, is this true? I still need help finding an answer to my phosphate problem.

Thanks all.

 

[pwj1286]

Guy...you dose kalkwasser a lot...Do you get phosphate readings ever? I drip kalk all the time now, but I do not have a phosphate test kit. Do you ever get readings?
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[johnfluevogs]

so its been a week or so and my phosphate did go down and then right back up. The only thing that is added eveyday is my auto top off RO. I tested my RO water again tonight and it tested positive for phosphates.

My ro system is only 5 months old... is it time to change some membranes. I herd the DI part is what causes the Phosphate spike, is this true? I still need help finding an answer to my phosphate problem.

Thanks all.

 

[LA-Lawman]

you need to keep on your DI changing... get a color change resin... mine changes brown.. when the media is 3/4 brown you swap the cartridge. I also ake the time to swap the sediment and carbon filters.... I get about 200-300 gallons out of my DI cart.. I could prolly wait to change the carbon blocks but it is easyier to do it all at once....

if you take the time keep up on the sediment and carbn block changes your TFC membrane will last a bit. I have my DI plumbed last in the chain after everything else (like it is supposed to be) I test my water every 50g at my local water store... he has a very accurate TDS meter... my last phosphate test was undetectable...