Refugium Q's

[CG1]

Hello, I am new to this web site (hi)

I have reef set up for a few years now and added a refugium in an attempt to do away with some hair algae that has been plaguing me form some time. I have not added anything to it except for sand, not sure what to add – that’s why I sought out this web site. My sand has turned all brown and the walls are beginning to turn brown plus the sand is starting to get all bubbly, kinda like the side of a glass filled with soda. My local fish store suggested that I run my lights 24/7, and that’s what I have been doing but now I am wondering if its too much light and the browning is caused by it. Should I kill the lights? I took a few snails from my tank and dropped them ontop the sand hoping that they may help to clean it up. Can some one guide me on what to do?

 

[atnixon]

Hello CG1..

Are you using RO or RO/DI water in the tank? Normal tap water is a great cause of algae problems..What are your latest water test results?

I would of thought that having the lights blasting 24/7 would increase the algae, might be wrong on that one and am sure someone will chime in if i am..

HTH

Niko

 

[CG1]

Hi - I use RO water. Right now the only this thats high are my phosphates - I had high(er) nitrates but after a few water changes and setting up this refugium my nitrates test at zero.

I have been scowering the internet and I have learned that the bloom in the refugium is normal and will clear relatively quickly. I have read a few differing opinions on the photo period, some saying 24/7 is the best way and other saying to run it reverse of the tank photo period. I'll wait to get some experianced opinions on the topic from this forum and see what I can agree with. Thanks for the response !

 

[Len]

:welcome:

I would run the refugium with reverse photoperiod. Flora and fauna usually do best with regular day/night cycles.

The bubbles emanating from the sandbed are normal and healthy, but if you're describing bubbles trapped on top of your sand, you may have dinoflaggelate or cyanobacteria. If this problem is confined to the refugium only, then we can deduce the problem is not water chemistry but rather physical properties (flow and temperature) as well as lighting. Increasing the flow and changing the lights may solve your localized problem.

FWIW, snails don't do very well "mopping" up the sand. Conches and sea cucumbers are much better.

 

[waymack97]

stick a powerhead in there. like len said you need some flow. i had this problem and the addition of a powerhead did wonders.
_________________
Ferrari GG50

 

[trido]

I have not added anything to it except for sand, not sure what to add – that’s why I sought out this web site.

Refugiums can serve several purposes. Some grow pods, Some use it for the DSB for dentrification and others grow macro algeas to help reduce phosphates and othe undesirable nutrients. Sounds to me like you need to grow some macro algeas to out compete the hair algea for nutrients. You should not have a problem finding either cheato or caulerpa (spelling?) to grow with a small florescent light.

 

[trido]

I have not added anything to it except for sand, not sure what to add – that’s why I sought out this web site.

Refugiums can serve several purposes. Some grow pods, Some use it for the DSB for dentrification and others grow macro algeas to help reduce phosphates and othe undesirable nutrients. Sounds to me like you need to grow some macro algeas to out compete the hair algea for nutrients. You should not have a problem finding either cheato or caulerpa (spelling?) to grow with a small florescent light.

 

[CG1]

Hi again – ok, the bubbles are on top of the sand and then they release, it doesn’t look like cyano (yet). Its just the diatoms and the sides of the glass are really brown now as well. Tonight I will put it on a reverse timer as suggested here.

I picked up two large balls of chae (oh forget it, I can’t spell it – the spaghetti algae) I choose it after doing research because I learned that it can not go asexual. I will look around for some sand cleaners. My tank parameters are adjusting to zero quickly (amazingly fast). My nitrates have always plagued me, and within a week they went to zero – that blows my mind. My phosphates have dropped from .5 (really a little higher, but my salfiert test is difficult to read) to somewhere below .25.

I purchased a fauna kit from inlandaquatics and not there are some pods swimming in the corners, little stars and a few snails. I will increase the water flow, I have a ball-valve on a danner pump so there is a lot more snot that I am chocking back. How do I know when I have the flow correct? I read online that I should run 10% of the refugiums volume per hour – that’s really slow. I have not messured the flow but I would guess that I am cruising water through much faster than that, but I really don’t know I could time the drain running into a gallon container I suppose.

BTW, thank you all for the advice ! I am very glad I found this forum !!!

 

[CG1]

Oh yes, I forgot to mention - my hair algae is nearly gone ! I had been plucking it by the handfuls every 2 weeks, now it seems to be reducing by itself. I have a feather duster who’s tube was covered – I was not able to pull it all off as it seems I needed to pull too hard on the little guy. Well, that hair is nearly all off him! Again, I am amazed at the immediate benefit this refugium as given to my tank.

 

[donfishy]

Refugiums can serve several purposes. Some grow pods, Some use it for the DSB for dentrification and others grow macro algeas to help reduce phosphates and othe undesirable nutrients. Sounds to me like you need to grow some macro algeas to out compete the hair algea for nutrients. You should not have a problem finding either cheato or caulerpa (spelling?) to grow with a small florescent light.

Can you have a DSB, AND grow macro on top of that in a reverse daylight photoperiod? Wouldn't that serve 2 purposes?

 

[CG1]

OK, looks like a bad idea to hit the back button and then refresh ! My post was reposted, so I just edited it with this post - sorry but there was no delete button.

 

[trido]

Can you have a DSB, AND grow macro on top of that in a reverse daylight photoperiod? Wouldn't that serve 2 purposes?

That is what I have. It seems to work well enough.

 

[mgranato]

Things sound like they are turning in the right direction. You didn't mention how much and what kind of sand you're using. Those variables play a huge part in what kind of fuge you will wind up with. Nuisance algeas are symptoms of a nutrient (too much nutrients) problem, not a too much light problem. Let your PH determine your refugium lighting. If your PH swings are minimal than I'd stick with the reverse lighting schedule. Chaeto really loves lots of flow, it would be tough to give it too much flow if you tried.

 

[Anonymous]

Are you sure there is a problem?

If you have a sand bed in the refugium in which nitrates are being reduced to nitrogen, it will bubble out as a gas. Also, this takes place under anerobic conditions, so it is often accompanied by sand discoloration.

 

[CG1]

Things sound like they are turning in the right direction. You didn't mention how much and what kind of sand you're using. Those variables play a huge part in what kind of fuge you will wind up with. Nuisance algeas are symptoms of a nutrient (too much nutrients) problem, not a too much light problem. Let your PH determine your refugium lighting. If your PH swings are minimal than I'd stick with the reverse lighting schedule. Chaeto really loves lots of flow, it would be tough to give it too much flow if you tried.

Hi - I put in about 5 inches of live sand that I bought from Petco (that stuff was WAY overpriced too!) I don't usually check my PH so I don't know what the swing is?? Um, do you mean what the PH is in the day and at night? I have a test kit so I can check it tonight.

 

[CG1]

Are you sure there is a problem?

If you have a sand bed in the refugium in which nitrates are being reduced to nitrogen, it will bubble out as a gas. Also, this takes place under anerobic conditions, so it is often accompanied by sand discoloration.

Well, that sure does sound like what has been happening in my tank. My nitrates were in the middle of my color chart (for a long time too) - after a few days with this live sand in the refugium that nitrates hit dead zero and the sand is covered in bubbles that it releases to the surface. The brown seem to be holding steady (not going away and not increasing) and the spaghetti algae appears to be either growing or stretching out -- I guess the right thought is growing, but can it grow an inch that fast? It almost appears to have grown an inch in circumference after a handful of days in the refugium? Maybe its just stretching its legs??

 

[CG1]

Oh - as for being sure of a problem...nope, this much I can assure you – I am not sure of anything. Actually, after finding this forum I am getting comfortable that there is not a problem and everything is working as it should. I have a lot to lean about Refugiums yet, if I remember I will take a picture of the bubbles and brown tonight.

 

[mgranato]

By "problem", I was referring to your comment of being plagued by hair algea. If its gone, the problem is probably gone. With good flow and light, the chaeto will grow - well, like a weed
Yep, thats what I was talking about with PH. Ideally you don't want a big swing (larger than .2) from day to night.

 

[CG1]

Oh ok, I'll test it when I get home and then later when the lights are off.

I suppose the hair algae problem has just about ended (you can still see it, but its nearly gone).

hmmm....sounds like it is in fact growing - I guess its a good thing. All thats left is for my phosphates to drop - I'll do another 15% water change this weekend.

 

[trido]

Oh ok, I'll test it when I get home and then later when the lights are off.

IMO the best time to check for your largest PH swing would be in the morning right before your tank lights come on for the lowest reading. Then again in the evening right before the display tank lights go off for your highest reading.