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Kittikity

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We got a 45 gal at Petco (they were having a sale, $1 per gal) so we paid a little over $50 for a tank that was listed at $130.. We saved $80.. Anyway, with a tank this size I definitely want to go with MH lights.. The dimensions on the tank are 36L X 12W X 24H.. My question is bulb strength.. Should we go with 150w, 250w, etc? And should we use one fixture or two.. Maybe one fixture and then save some space for actinics? Also, what's the cheapest way to do the MH lights? Not wanting to spend $300 for one fixture..
 
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Anonymous

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Thinking you are going to do SPS, I would go with the 250's One would probably do you for a while, if you are willing to give up the last 4-6 inches on either end of the tank to less light demanding corals, LPS for example. I like actinics so I would put 2 ea 30" long. To get a quality fixture you are going to have to spend a few bucks. I don't see you needing to spend $300. My set up is about $250 for each pendant, ballast and bulb set. I think the most cost effective way to do it is to get componets and put them together as opposed to buying a complete fixture.
 

Kittikity

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We will probably have only a couple sps towards the top.. But the MH lights will mostly just be for light penetration and a possible clam or two.. We're more into softies and lps..
 
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Anonymous

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Then go with 150's you will be able to keep SPS in the top half no problem and montis a bit further down. What type of clam? Maxamias and croceas are happier on the rocks as opposed to the sand bed. So if you have those get them a few inches off the bottom and you should be good.
 

Kittikity

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Not sure what kind of clam yet.. Whatever the LFS has, I guess.. Didn't pay attention to the species.. Thanks so much for the help..
 

cindre2000

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Go with Iwaskai SE 50,000K, if you do plan on 150. You have to double check if the ballast is compatable (its actually not a metal halide lamp), however, they last for a very very long time (3yrs by some accounts). Even if you replace the lamp every 2 years you save money.

Just make sure you use the 50,000K, not the 6,500K. The 6,500k is really really yellow and the 50,000K is actually more around a 10,000K.
 

cindre2000

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Oh yeah, you save a couple of bucks by going with retrofit and buying the components, AND, if you every plan to "upgrade" down the road, components are much easier to reuse than complete fixtures.
 

Len

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I would go with 250W if you plan on SPS corals and clams. I would personally go with 250W for its flexibility, either DE or mogul based. But if you do go with 150W, the Iwasaki 50K is a fine choice (it uses a medium base, not a double ended base like most 150W).
 
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Anonymous

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Mogul is looks like a standard ligh bulb only bigger. DE is liek a halogen bulb. It has contact on both ends and slips into clips.
 

Kittikity

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Oh, ok.. I know what you mean then.. I've seen pics and noticed the difference.. Is there any other difference then the shape?
 
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Anonymous

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Kittikity":3q8f0sfo said:
Oh, ok.. I know what you mean then.. I've seen pics and noticed the difference.. Is there any other difference then the shape?

Yes. DE require additional shielding (just a glass pane), Mogul is shielded by the outer part of the bulb almost like a bulb in a bulb. They will both run on electronic ballast, but IIRC you need a different solid state ballast for DE or Mogul.

Other than that not really. Every bulb performs slightly differently on the same ballast, and almost every ballast will drive the same bulb differently. It can be confusing.
 
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Anonymous

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Len":1psy94ib said:
I would go with 250W if you plan on SPS corals and clams. I would personally go with 250W for its flexibility, either DE or mogul based. But if you do go with 150W, the Iwasaki 50K is a fine choice (it uses a medium base, not a double ended base like most 150W).

Len, do you mean this one? http://www.aquariumsupplycompany.com/ca ... 763667.htm

I have 2 150W 10k HQI right now. Would you recommend these then?
 

Kittikity

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I think I'll end up buying the components and building the unit myself.. I've built and wired an incubator for hatching chicken eggs before.. The wiring on that was very simple though..
 
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Anonymous

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Kittikity":91k0rhmz said:
I think I'll end up buying the components and building the unit myself.. I've built and wired an incubator for hatching chicken eggs before.. The wiring on that was very simple though..

I hate electricity. I worked on generators that have 120 amps. I just hate it, and try to avoid it. I never been shocked though :D But yea, that's the best way to go.
 

Kittikity

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If I do go the 250w route, does the bulb have to be 6500, 1k, 20k, or 50k? And is iwasaki still a good option?
 

mr_X

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that's mostly personal preference, except for the 6500k, which you don't want on your tank. i'd put that over your refugium.
10k is mostly white light, with maybe a subtle hint of yellow. 15k has a bluish look to it...nicer looking IMO, and 20k is very blue. the higher you go with the kelvin rating, the less PAR, or useful light your bulb will emit.
someone correct me if i'm wrong, but i think the 10k has the most useful light. this depends also on the manufacturer, as one 10k bulb from one company is not the same as another.
are you going to suppliment the halide with some flourescent actinic light?
if so, i'd choose the 10k, with actinic suppliment. if not, i'd go with a 12-15k bulb, or even 20k.
IMO, over a 3' tank, i'd go with 2x 250 :wink:
 

Kittikity

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Ok, 10k it is then.. I'm going to use one 250w in the middle and then some actinics on either end.. I don't need a lot of light.. As I said, I'm only going to have a couple sps and some clams.. The rest of the tank will be softies and lps.. The reason I was going for the 250w was because I saw a good deal on one for about $65.. Not gonna say where though because I want it to still be there when I get paid next week.. :lol:
 

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