Actinic Atoll

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..
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That's a tough one and I guess it depends on your criteria for better. It would seem the round balls would have have more surface area for exchange as compared to a brick.

If all else is fairly equal, I would go with whatever is most economical as it is essentially a disposable media. (Assuming both products may break down eventually, or become saturated with undesirables?)

Brightwell also makes a "cube" version as well that is similar to a ball.

Reviews are similar but in less quantity then Marine Pure. Most seem to be happy, complaints consist of the product breaking down and the subsequent debris getting into undesirable places.

Myself, unless I needed a brick because it fit well, I might be more inclined to bust up some marco rock etc and make my own rubble. It may not have the raw open surface area of a the fresh ceramic media, but it is durable and perhaps a more appropriate long term solution. Admittedly I could be missing some of the advantages of the synthetic media besides fitting into tight spaces and seeding quarantine tanks.
 

pecan2phat

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Wallingford, CT
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My 1st experience was with the Brightwell Bio Brick and it dissolved into sand within 14 months in my sump. I was pretty PO'd and emailed my frustration with Brightwell not because of purchasing a dud but because it was a PIA to get it out of my sump. They eventually told me it was a batch that was not fired to a proper heat level and sent me a replacement but I have not used it. I went with the Marine Pure spheres as it suited my placement better and it's been 2.5 years and has not turned into mush.
 

ducati335i

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fyi

I use marine blocks, dry rock and these pumice balls in bags I bought off amazon..
Even if they leach aluminum w water changes if doesn’t create any damage
 

Rebels23

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Location
Long Island
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Thanks BYU, Ducati.

I was looking at Seachem and Maxspect Nano-Tech Bio-Block as alternatives because of the leaching. This time around I wanted to keep the rock to a minimum and supplement in the sump with these options for filtering
 
have you done icp test ever ?
my corals were not coloring up and rtn then i did icp
aluminum was really high
did research and found the article about the blocks
my source was actually the eco tech m1 rusted inside the impeller
they replaced it and i did water changes and metasorb
aluminum went back to normal and colors are better than ever
not saying blocks caused the issue but i found this article interesting and it definitely saved my tank
i know we are off topic, sorry to op
 

Rebels23

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Long Island
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Never done icp......dont even have tank up yet :) Hopefully will be up in the next two weeks, so prepping. Interesting find you had there on the source of the leaching. I believe people have leached elements into their tanks just from metal clamps on hoses.
 

ducati335i

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178   0   1
have you done icp test ever ?
my corals were not coloring up and rtn then i did icp
aluminum was really high
did research and found the article about the blocks
my source was actually the eco tech m1 rusted inside the impeller
they replaced it and i did water changes and metasorb
aluminum went back to normal and colors are better than ever
not saying blocks caused the issue but i found this article interesting and it definitely saved my tank
i know we are off topic, sorry to op
I should.. I have never tested and have only two bricks w about 550 gallons of true water.
im working on balancing my calcium/alk perfectly and im
Almost there. Surprisingly I’m embarrassed to say that my frag tank corals w just a hob and small
Water changes look better than my DT tank.. but I’m referring more to the monti’s which get way too much light in my DT..
I’m off
Topic here but I should absolutely test regardless
 

Rebels23

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Location
Long Island
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I have been using Seachem Matrix in a hang on back filter in QT. No bag though......just floating around in filter. Fish in QT (yellow tang and emperor) developed severe HLLE. Wonder if it is fine particles or dust from the Seachem matrix causing it.
 

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