Recent content by CAT

thanks for the replies. actually, the tube is solid so maybe the worm is inside. i'm thinking the 'sand' on the tube is actually the coral skeleton being 'chewed up' and deposited behind. the 2 heads were definitely damaged --the flesh pretty much gone on the first head and the 'tube'...

i'm hoping someone can id this. i've had this frogspawn for a couple of years. in fact i've fragged it several times. a couple of weeks ago i noticed a weird growth on one of the heads though the head kept expanding. now, as you can see from the pic below, the 'growth' jumped from one head to...

Thanks for the help :) I'm ordering a 20K bulb. Should make my lps happier.

The hood is about 10 inches above the tank right now. I'd guess the bulb is about 12 inches above the tank. This canopy has a lens over the mh bulb and on each pc actinic. There's also a glass cover on the tank. This is what the hood looks like...

Hi Wazzell, No other issues that I know of. This tank's been running for almost 4 years in different forms - several moves etc. I've moved the lights up, the corals down, shaded them, put screens on the glass top etc, etc. My problem is that I like my lps/ softies tank, so I'd rather not...

I have an LPS/ softies tank. It's an Oceanic 40 gal stretch hex (30" wide). I changed my lighting around Christmas. I went from a Coralife 2X 65w pc hood (1 daylight/ 1 actinic) to the Coralife Pro (2X65w actinic and 1 10k, 150w DE MH bulb). I did this for two reasons - the bubble coral and...

Water changes also help to clear out other organics/chemicals we can't test for. I think l.r. and the sand absorb all kinds of things over time. Phosphate and nitrate test kits can only test what's in the water column, not what's bound up in the rock and sand. When I hear of a reefer with an...

I wouldn't do the firefish with a pseudo - could get ugly for the firefish?

Green chromis are my favs for being' out there' all the time. Colorful, eat like pigs, don't often get sick. Cool fish. ;)

I've just set up one of these guys as well. I used just 2 of the sponges - I don't really want to try to get my hands down too far to pull them out to clean them - not much space back there. I left the ceramic rings in but I'm not using the carbon, I like 'Purigen' by Seachem much better...

Triggers never stop swimming. I think they need a long tank, plus they get real big, real fast. That tank might be just the right size for sea horses though. :wink:

Fish don't usually die from ich unless they've been exposed for a while. If you were treating them, then it's possible that ammonia was the culprit. I use Seachem's 'Ammonia Alert' in my q-tank. It's a yellow disc that will change color if it senses free ammonia, and will turn back to yellow...

I'd use the shrimp to get the cycle going then just throw a pinch of food in there every couple of days. If you have a bio-wheel type filter on it, it shouldn't need much maintenance except for top-off if you leave the lights off. That way, you can test the water and maybe do a water change...

Not sure about the tetra kits. Many people like Salifert. I use Seachem kits and like them because they have a reference sample to verify the kit with. I also like Seachem's 'Ammonia Alert', it's a yellow disc that stays in the tank - it will change color if you have an ammonia spike. HTH

Don't know about the lawnmover blenny as I've never had one. But I accidently killed all the caulerpa I had in my old tank by using a phosphate remover on it. If you're desperate, you might try disconnecting the main tank from the fuge and give it a shot.