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Location
Brooklyn, NY
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I am a newbie, has been in the hobby for only four months. And I learned the hard way that I need to set up a quarantine tank (ich or something else killed most of my fish and the rest I am trying to revive by using garlic extreme). Does anyone have suggestions for a set up? My display tank is 90 gallons and I am planning to keep around 10 or more fish in it with corals. How big my quarantine tank should be? Do I need lights for it? What type of filter is recommended? Do I us water from an old tank? Thank you.
 

oh207

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Apex Freak
Location
Amityville, NY
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I would recommend at least a 20 gallon. A 10 gallon would be too small to QT some larger fish. Also with a 20g you can get away with probably 3-4 fish at the same time. And the larger water volume does add some stability and is more forgiving than a 10g.
Keep in mind that most QT plans will last from 6-8 weeks. So if you are limited to 2 fish at a time in your QT tank then it could take about a year for you to get to full livestock.
 

cmantis

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I use a 30g (was free) and medicate new fish for 10 days to get rid of any parasites. I think a 40 breeder would be ideal if space allowed. However with the medication I use it requires a 25% water change daily. I just use a power head, heater and some pvc pipe. I did though just buy a sponge filter to replace the power head.
 

QueensRob

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Location
Queens NY
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I feed them garlic every 3 days. 3 drops in there food let it soak for 5 min and feed. Too much will cause organ failure so don't over do it. Also if you have tangs that get ich all the time feed them nori from the chinese supermarket. It's the same stuf they use to make sushi and its arround 2 bucks for a month supply.
 

Sharkbait420

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Location
Nyc
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You should add filter floss, sponges or ceramic rings to your tank now. When you want to set up your quarantine tank you have a media all set to use for your biological filtration. You can also use a product like Sachem's Stability, which is bottled bacteria. HOB filters are good for QT because it gives you a place to put your media, provides circulation and raises the DO levels of the water.
 

Tangster

Experienced Reefer
Location
long island
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i have two 10g tanks, both painted black on the back and bottom to help see any changes or easily spot stuff like hitchhikers. i got some really cheap LEDS about 12 watts each(2 over each tank) they were about 6 dollars each, just took a week to arrive from china, bought them off ebay. i have a basic HOB filter for each. i usually split my fish between the tank, aggressive/peaceful. tangs i quarantine the longest, and dose kick-ich no matter what. i have had too man fish die from ich! most clownfish don't stay in quarantine too long, they are usually very healthy, but please research further. when i do water changes i just take my DP tank water and add that water, DO NOT add your quarantine water to your DP, that will contaminate your tank. Hope this helps
 

sulcata102

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Location
Kingston, NY
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Personally I QT for atleast 6 weeks to give the ick, or other diseses, enough time to present themselves. With a very minimum of one to two rounds of prazi. Its so easy and safe and gets rid of flukes, tapeworms, and flatworms. I would use this method on something sensitive to qt like a pencil wrasse. But my usual routine is to proactily treat with dr g's. Most fish will take it and then i can treat for almost all common ailments, with the three, in a two month QT. I use a HOB, usually with a bio wheel, a uv sterilizer, plastic pipe for hiding, heater, and often, if fish seem health, I add one or two pieces of seasoned rock. For the bio filtration, because it give them something to peck at, and use for additional shelter. The rock is optional and based on circumstance. In the past i used to dread the qt process. The medicated food had made it so much easier. it makes so more sense to me. treating the fish not the tank water. After seeing how much healthier my tanks and the fish are i really enjoy it now.
 

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