ChrisRD":21izhlab said:
<snip re: my previous statements>
I have not found this to be necessary. I have never added anything to my tanks (or tanks I've setup for others) to induce any further cycle after curing the rock (which of course caused a cycle). Just let the tank sit for a month or so and then started adding fish - never had a problem with ammonia spikes, etc. after the initial rock curing.
Apparently the bacterial populations were either adequate, or mutliplied quick enough to keep up to prevent a spike in all cases. Now granted, I did cure in the main system on all counts, and I do stock very slowly, so maybe that's what made the difference.
I would agree, Chris, that your cultures must have been sufficient, maybe along with other variables such as tank size, filtration, fishes chosen for the system, and so on. I'm sure you would agree that stocking too quickly (and without proper quarantine) is one of THE biggest problems experienced by people new to marine systems. That being the case, it is
always my advice to feed the bacteria to A: keep cultures up, and/or B: increase population of nitrifyers. It's far easier, as well as much less stressful to the inhabitants, to let some bacteria die off than to force fish and other specimens to tough it out while waiting for cultures to come up. While you, or I, or anyone else with a few years under their belts might be comfortable doing this, I've never had.. mm.. "failsafe" luck advising others to do what I might do.
roseselene":21izhlab said:
seamaiden":21izhlab said:
Have you decided on what you would like to keep in this tank? (Note: since you already have the tank, this dictates to a certain degree what you can and cannot keep, which can make the process a bit easier.)
Hi! I wanted to ask about the fish. Since we'll be waiting a while to add fish....I had read that most people start with Damsels since they can weather cycling (sometimes). Since we're waiting a month and allowing a good bacteria population to grow, is it necessary to start with damsels? If damsels are still recommended, are there a less aggressive variety to have so that they will not be attacking any future fish I may get? How many fish are a good number to start with for a 55 gal? 4? Also, if it is not necessary to start with damsels, is there a different beginner fish? From what I've noticed, i think that the tangs seem to be too big for my tank, i didn't come accross any that stayed small. We like the clowns, but we do not have enough lighting for anenome and we did know if it was ok to get clowns if we weren't going to have anenome. Any thoughts?
Thanks!!
Many folks start with damsels in order to get the cycle going. This is not necessary, because, as I've been saying, you can start this cycle yourself by feeding the display as outlined above. In fact, it's preferable to avoid using damsels or other fish to get the cycle going. The fact that you already have live rock in situ means that you have a starter culture. If you wait a month to forty five days without feeding, and then add fish, you might expect a spike in nitrogenous compounds. Again, if you do, having something like Bio-Spira on hand can come in very handy, as well as having enough mixed, aged, temperature & pH matched saltwater on hand for a 100% water change.
This is where I'd like to address what Chris and I are talking about in terms of "stocking slowly". This means that he adds fish one at a time, and probably allows a good deal of time in between additions. I have no idea whether or not he quarantines, however, I insist on it. If you're not certain of the efficacy of q/t, please visit the www under my signature, it will lead you to the home page of WetWebMedia where we have extensive FAQs on this and
many other subjects. You might also make very good use of the links in his signature as well, and we cannot forget the RDO library (linked top right) as well as the database of Advanced Aquarist (linked top left).
In any event, getting one fish through quarantine means keeping it isolated from the display for at least 30 days
disease free. This means that if it becomes sick, that counter starts all over again once it is completely disease free. As far as I'm concerned, this is the best protocol to be used for all specimens destined for the display. Before you can do that you do need to decide on fish. A 55 gallon tank is NOT large, by any means. There are tangs that remain small, but generally they remain small and are not often found for sale. However, the other good choices are so incredibly vast that no one can hope to address all possibilities. Pseudochromids, cardinalfishes, gobies, blennies, pygmy/dwarf angel fishes, basslets, wrasses ALL can be gorgeous, active additions to any system. Care must be taken, however, to choose carefully and work from there. Aggression, feeding habits, ease of care, etc. are all factors that must be considered carefully when stocking. (As far as I'm concerned, that's the best part.)
Yes, you can have clownfishes, but I would limit the choices to
Amphiprion percula or
A. ocellaris - more for growth rates and aggression level than anything else. Many of the other clowns can become mean very quickly, driving anything else and even YOU out of the tank in short order (this is not to say it
can't happen with these two species, it's just less likely). Being as how you're so new, though, I cannot recommend any anemones for you at this point.
Good God, I've just written a novel!