Please help!!!! Tank down!!!!!

[JimmyR1rider]

Like I said before I HIGHLY DOUBT that you have any copper in the tank.

Copper is used to treat marine fish as well, but it seems your tank was brand new, the copper test was more of a suggestion to help you relax more by ruling out 1 more thing is all.

Just let the tank finish cycling and start from ground zero as stated. CUC then livestock slowly. Itll all work out fine.

If you really still want to test for copper some LFS have the kits. Just call around or order on line from a vendor on here.

 

[nittinid]

Ok I see what your saying...I appreciate it...and your right because the guy was trying to sell me all sorts of bacterial boosters ...but i always research before I buy. I just bought the special blend and the nite out prior to the transfer because i knew i needed as much bacteria as possible...and as far as the 105...and the u.v sterolizer..I dont recall exactly how long the power was off....id be lying if i said it was less then an half an hour...i think maybe an hour at most...do you think my bacteria in my 105 has been killed off ? that just means that my tank really went back to square one....right?...:/

 

[KathyC]

No, not back to square one, but you are going to have to wait it out until your ammonia & nitrites are back to zero for at least a few days before adding a clean up crew. No sense in rushing it now.

The upside is bacteria doubles in numbers daily (on it's own ) so it won't be long.

The downside to closed filtration - like the Fluvals - is they should always have the entire contents dumped if the power is off to them for an hour or longer.
You have a bunch of different things affecting what you did.
Even simply switching tanks will usually lead to a mini-cycle to some degree.

Do get yourself an Alk kit along with a Calciuk & magnesium kit while you are awaiting on the cycle to finish (again!)

 

[nittinid]

jimmy...im curious to know...what if you treat a marine fish with copper...when you re- introduce him to the tank...wouldnt he expose himself(copper meds)in his scales to the live rock...that would in turn ruin the rock? and if i do(in the future need to medicate a fish...do i need to get a seperate heater for medicating... so that the copper doesnt seep into the plastic casing of the heater...or can i use the heater for the tank...the reason asking is because my house is pretty comfy temp wise...its always 77 degrees and i wouldnt want to buy a heater if i could use the one from the tank...

 

[nittinid]

Will do kathy...I just placed an order...and you've been so helpful...thanks...

kathy...jay....jimmy...you guys rock....thanks!!!!!!! ill post in about a week... tell you guys how things are going... thanks again guys...and gal...

 

[jay1335]

Def let us know how it goes!!!! Thats whats great about this place everyone jumps to help eachother!! Ive never been on any other kind of forum where people are this helpful!!

 

[JimmyR1rider]

jimmy...im curious to know...what if you treat a marine fish with copper...when you re- introduce him to the tank...wouldnt he expose himself(copper meds)in his scales to the live rock...that would in turn ruin the rock? and if i do(in the future need to medicate a fish...do i need to get a seperate heater for medicating... so that the copper doesnt seep into the plastic casing of the heater...or can i use the heater for the tank...the reason asking is because my house is pretty comfy temp wise...its always 77 degrees and i wouldnt want to buy a heater if i could use the one from the tank...

You can treat marine ich with copper, but it has to be the right dosage or its toxic to the fish.

Nah its more the tank that gets contaminated- the reason why its always a bare bottom tank, less stuff to absorb the copper. You could always do a freshwater dip after the medicating is done I believe.

Anything you have in the tank when using copper should definately not make it into your display tank. Im sure you can decontaminate the tank and heater and such. And yes your QT tank is always separate with its own heater and light and filtration, so not to have cross contamination to your healthy system. You want to have aheater in the Qt(medicating) tank to insure that your temp is steady, especially during treatment- theyre already gonna be stressed, you dont want to add anymore stress than is already present.

You can also use hyposalinity to treat ich also- this would be the treatment Id prefer, safer in my eyes.

And your very welcome, anything I can do to help-thats what this boards about helping each other out. Best wishes with the tank:splitspin

 

[Lenny718]

I think Kathy hit the nail right on the head. The spike that accrued was more than likely cause by the dead or dieing bacteria in the canister filter. You have to move quick with canister filters, if you let them sit for more than 30 min or so and then turn it back on in your tank your sending poisonous water into the tank. Sorry for your losses and good luck in the future.

 

[nittinid]

Thanks again jimmy...good to know...i never had an ick problem but ive heard that sooner or later im gonna run into ick..that(its common when buying fish online) dont know how true that is but never hurts to ask... just a matter of clarification hypo = raising the salt levels...right? and to what degree should i put it and for how long...

 

[JimmyR1rider]

Thanks again jimmy...good to know...i never had an ick problem but ive heard that sooner or later im gonna run into ick..that(its common when buying fish online) dont know how true that is but never hurts to ask... just a matter of clarification hypo = raising the salt levels...right? and to what degree should i put it and for how long...

We should all QT our fish-ALL of our fish before we introduce them into our systems, especially if buying off line with the added stress of sometimes cross country shipping, but almost all of us deviate from this because we trust our sources- such with me I got pretty much all of my livestock from saltwatercritters on here and have never had an issue with anything Ive gotten from Russ and Jim. Doesnt mean I was right but I pressed my luck and didnt get any whammys<--old tv show reference lol. The only exception was my mated pair of clowns that I got off line which I admittedly didnt QT them either. Ive been lucky- but dont let yourself get lazy this time around, do it right and itll pay off 10 fold.

Good luck and Im looking forward to hearing how the tank makes out, Im sure youll be fine this time.

 

[nittinid]

Hey buddies!!! Its been almost a week...and i just wanted to update...tell you how my tank is going...i been watching it very carefully my levels are

salt gravity 1.025
ammonia .25 (major drop)
nitrite 0
nitrate 5-10 ppm (kinda in between)
ph 8.5
temp 78.5

although ive been itching to get my reef cleaners in the tank...ive been really patient,trying to hold off as much as i can...more bacteria the better...right but my diatoms are becoming a little bit of a problem...but i guess that's just more food for them when i get them...hope their hungry(reef cleaners). Thanks to all my buddies...you guys rock!!!! Talk to you soon!!!!

 

[Lenny718]

Even though you have a a major drop in ammonia do not add a clean up crew or anything else till it gets to 0.

 

[jay1335]

Awesome to hear you are on your way!! Stay strong you can do it!!! Hahaha. After your ammonia drops to zero you should see your nitrites rise just like the ammonia did. Youre getting there!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

 

[JimmyR1rider]

Glad to hear its goin better for you and is on its way but as stated be patient and let the paramters hit exactly where they should be before doing any of the next steps.


Also

Hypo = less

Hyper = more.

So hyposalinity is water with lower salinity levels

 

[frank arriaga]

Glad to hear its getting better.Patience and good luck

 

[prattreef]

Agree with alL of the above regarding the mini cycle and what went on with your tank. But, I nevr have, do not and will not believe in the notion that a tank that was treated with copper is permanently unusable for inverts. It just makes no sense at all. Assuming the silicone does absorb and retains some copper, how much can it possibly leach out into the water? If it is capable of releasing enough to harm the animals, then it should be a simple matter of filling the tank a few times and letting the copper leach out--it is not an inexhaustible supple that is sequestered. I don't know where this idea started, but it has been around forever with zero evidence that I know of to support it.