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02-03-2006, 01:11 AM
  #11  
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonyscoots84
i still got a couple of project down the road but the auto top off is def. one of em...
Free tip: Move it up on your priority list! You'll be very glad you did. Takes sooooo much of the daily maintenance routine away and frees up time for other things.

Russ, yo' masta
 
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02-03-2006, 01:21 AM
  #12  
I prefer this setup, in my tanks working good from couple years...
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02-03-2006, 02:02 AM
  #13  
Quote:
Originally Posted by alrha
i agree, but it adds to the cost.
Actually it would be cheaper than your topoff since you use kalk. You wouldn't need the kalk reactor. I had the litermeter for years, rock solid but loud. I don't know why I decided to change to the Tunze

It is easier to use a kalk reactor though and a lot less messy so i understand your choice
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02-03-2006, 02:10 AM
  #14  
Rich all day this setup working without kalk reactor, only in the night working with kalk reactor. For mine setup I use two solenoid valves, timer for kalk reactor, and one more water level sensor .
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02-03-2006, 02:11 AM
  #15  
Mark could the soleniod fail and pump fresh water from the tap into your tank non-stop?
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02-03-2006, 03:04 AM
  #16  
I using very strong solenoid valve from pneumatic tools (this valve working with pressure max 450 psi) and is of course naturally close if something happens, but anyway yes Rich you right if solenoid fail, then water gonna fill it the system non-stop ...
I just thinking about extra kent manual shut-off valve.
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02-03-2006, 11:11 AM
  #17  
Mark, don’t use Kalk water with the Kent Float valve, it will clog up the valve over time.

Rich, I use a similar set up as Mark except I use a 35 gallon drum in place of the RO/DI and it gravity feeds the sump. This will limit the max of 35 gallons (it is rarely that full) fresh water dumping in my sump if the solenoid should stay open, the scenario is almost impossible since I have two float switches for low level on and high level off and use another relay to control the solenoid, redundancy in this area is good since the float switch can fail or get stuck in the sump. The solenoid is built to fail in a “closed” position, the only way it can stuck in open would mean you have some type of foreign object contamination in your RO\DI water.

The 35 gallon reservoir can top off my system for about 7 days without refill in the winter, I would think you only need a 10 gallon container to auto top-off your system for a week. I'll find you the link for the solenoid valve later today.

Last edited by cali_reef; 02-03-2006 at 11:14 AM.
 
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02-03-2006, 11:36 AM
  #18  
Here is the link to the auto top off with float switch and solenoid.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1

I am stilling looking for the thread to built the dual float switch relay circuit for the added redundancy.
 
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02-03-2006, 11:45 AM
  #19  
Found the diagram for the dual float switch circuit

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showp...t=1&thecat=500

Still can't find the thread
 
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02-03-2006, 11:48 AM
  #20  
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackson6745
Actually it would be cheaper than your topoff since you use kalk. You wouldn't need the kalk reactor. I had the litermeter for years, rock solid but loud. I don't know why I decided to change to the Tunze

It is easier to use a kalk reactor though and a lot less messy so i understand your choice

wouldnt you still need the kalk reactor to dose it as saturated Calcium Hydroxide?
i thought the dosing pump just regulates how fast it doses, but you would still need the reactor, no?
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