Anthony.Luciano710

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ok so i want to start using ozone on a 125 gallon reef. i plan on injecting it in a super reef octopus 2000. will this be like a replacement for chemi pure because i know i have to put activated carbon on the top of the skimmer so none of it escapes into the air but is it truly necessary to put it on the output of the skimmer too or will the distance from the sump to the tank be enough for it to break down. and i also want to use an ozone generator connected to my reefkeeper elite with an orp probe. or the red sea ozone generator. im still deciding but i dont know if its worth it or not.
 

pauliwalnuts

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ok so i want to start using ozone on a 125 gallon reef. i plan on injecting it in a super reef octopus 2000. will this be like a replacement for chemi pure because i know i have to put activated carbon on the top of the skimmer so none of it escapes into the air but is it truly necessary to put it on the output of the skimmer too or will the distance from the sump to the tank be enough for it to break down.
Having carbon somewhere before the water goes back into the tank is highly recommended.
and i also want to use an ozone generator connected to my reefkeeper elite with an orp probe. or the red sea ozone generator. im still deciding but i dont know if its worth it or not.
Also try going with a ozonator that doesn't use air dryers. That will give you one less headache at the end.
 
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Jbanks

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It also helps to put a carbon pad or a small bas of carbon on top of your skimmer that will cover the holes in the top of the collection cup.. Depending on how much air your skimmer draws, Ozone makes skimmate smell about 10 time worse and can really funk up your house.. The carbon eliminates this oder.
 
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Anthony.Luciano710

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well i plan on using fluval carbon because i know its really good quality and it only cost $9 for 3 packets. and for the air hole on the top, the fluval carbon is like a long packet so instead of replacing it all the time can i just slide it over a little until i use up the whole thing. and i would really hate to replace it every 2/3 weeks. once a month is already bad enough because then its basically the same price as the chemi pure elite im using that i replace every 5 months. and if its just ozone going through the carbon wont it lat longer. and if it last only a fraction of a second in the tank whats the harm if it goes through the whole sump and up into the display tank, wont it already have broken down?
 

Jbanks

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I'm not saying to follow me, but I don't use any carbon on the exit. I read somewhere on "RC" on the Advanced Reefing forum that ozone only lasts a few seconds in the water and the mg/hr that we use it at is not strong enough to do any harm. So, I tried it out and have yet to see any I'll effect on fish or coral. This works for me, but is not my advice to you.

I do have carbon in my sump after the skimmer, but the skimmer drain is not channeled directly through it.


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Anthony.Luciano710

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oh yeeees well this is everything ive been wanting to hear. how many mg/h are you using because i plan to use 200 on a 125 gallon tank but with a total water volume of about 150 and it wil be hooked up to my reefkeeper elite with an orp probe to control it
I'm not saying to follow me, but I don't use any carbon on the exit. I read somewhere on "RC" on the Advanced Reefing forum that ozone only lasts a few seconds in the water and the mg/hr that we use it at is not strong enough to do any harm. So, I tried it out and have yet to see any I'll effect on fish or coral. This works for me, but is not my advice to you.

I do have carbon in my sump after the skimmer, but the skimmer drain is not channeled directly through it.


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Jbanks

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+2 on the last two posters comments. You should learn as much as you can before deploying O3 and as I stated, that is what I do, but not what I suggest.

On your size tank, there's no real need to crank it past 40mg/hr. You won't even need to run it full time if you don't want. It can be used periodically to polish your water. Make sure your controller is set to disable the ozone unit should your ORP rise to 390. Natural seawater can reach up to 410 and above, but that is unnecessary for our systems and you are playing with fire in that range.




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Anthony.Luciano710

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ive been researching for about 5 months and i know about the activated carbon and i can replace it frequently on the top of the skimmer but just the output i dont see why i would need to put it there if the distance from the sump to the DT is about 4 1/2 feet. wont the O3 have broken down by then?
 

Anthony.Luciano710

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oh well i cant find any that low for a good price. i can only find ones that are like 200 mg/h. but i just want to hook it up to a reefkeeper to keep it at like a 390 steady level so it turns on when it goes below and shuts off when it goes above... is that not how im supposed to use ozone?
+2 on the last two posters comments. You should learn as much as you can before deploying O3 and as I stated, that is what I do, but not what I suggest.

On your size tank, there's no real need to crank it past 40mg/hr. You won't even need to run it full time if you don't want. It can be used periodically to polish your water. Make sure your controller is set to disable the ozone unit should your ORP rise to 390. Natural seawater can reach up to 410 and above, but that is unnecessary for our systems and you are playing with fire in that range.




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pauliwalnuts

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Wetwebmedia (even tough it's some oldschool reading, still really good info), Reefkeeping, somewhere in on of these sites have a very interesting and more natural way of going about the level of ORP setting (its what I did). For a week, at night only, run it without the controller. In the morning, turn it off. Remmember to take notes twice a day of the ORP reading, once in the morning when you turn it off and then the other one at night right before you turn it on. After week, avarage all the numbers up and that will be your setting. Did this proccedure and I'm gald how it worked out. I found my tanks sweet spot and the ozonizer seems to only come on for several hours after I feed.
 
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Anthony.Luciano710

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sorry but i dont get how that works? what setting do you means. cant i just put the reefkeeper set to 390 and have the ozonizer only turn on if it goes below that? like just manage it as if it were the temperature?
Wetwebmedia (even tough it's some oldschool reading, still really good info), Reefkeeping, somewhere in on of these sites have a very interesting and more natural way of going about the level of ORP setting (its what I did). For a week, at night only, run it without the controller. In the morning, turn it off. Remmember to take notes of the ORP, morning when you turn it off and night right before you turn it on. After week, avarage all the numbers up and that will be your setting. Did this proccedure and I'm gald how it worked out. I found my tanks sweet spot and the ozonizer seems to only come on for several hours after I feed.
 

Anthony.Luciano710

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well the only thing i really don't get is the control of it. am i supposed to put it on a timer or something or do i just plug it into my reefkeeper and let it be controlled by the orp probe by keeping the orp at 390? im going to use a 200 mg/h generator because it costs like $50 and anything less is either an air purifier or a red sea ozonator which cost like $300.
Sorry Anthony, I cleared myself up a little. See if you can make it out now. If not, lmk and I will Pm you my phone #.
 

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