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marrone

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thank you. this was exactly what i said, i may not have a lot of posts here but ive been doing this for a while too. not as long as paul but a while non the less.

ich doesnt have the power ppl are giving it. if i had a dollar for every time i saw a powder blue tang with an ich spot (that is still alive) id have enough for a frag or 3.

If you have been doing it for a long time, than the statement you just made shows that you really don't know what you're talking about. Sorry, but ich can and does kill fish and in some cases, will wipe out a tank.

i agree with u paul some of my fish never get ich in spite of it being present in my system. at the moment out of my 13 fish the only fish that has the white spots are one of my angels, and its because of stress. its being harassed by some of my larger fish, eventually when everyone settles down it will come around, or die if the bullying continues.
Some fish seem to develop a resistant to ich, though it doesn't have any really doing with them being in "breeding condition", which you can see in the ocean, as fish have all kinds of parasites, even ones that are breeding.

Also stress doesn't have anything to do with a fish getting ich, as ich is a parasite. Stress doesn't make it any less likely that a fish can get ich or not, though a health fish maybe better able to fight the ich off, of last longer while you treat it.


ich isnt that serious...really stop...this whole hysteria is probably causing more deaths through the process of catching and treating the sick fish by inexperienced owners and because usually the one that has ich is the more sensitive fish, and their will to live goes out the window pretty quick when they're stressed.
Actually ich is serious, and most of the time left untreated will result in deaths. Whether a fish is more sensitive than others doesn't mean it's going to get ich. Some very tough fish, like Queen Angels, are ich magnets but can fight off the ich, or do well in treatments.
 

marrone

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But everyone I speak to says ich is always in the system so the only way to control it is using a uv sterilizer. But I use ozone which Is supposed to work even better.

Oxone and UV will not control ich. Most of the paracites are hanging out near the substrait and will never go into the UV sterilizer or device where you are running ozone.

The above post by Paul is a very important point.

What you'll find though is once your tank is free of ich, running a UV or Ozone does seem to help quite a bite. Tanks seem to be healthier and free of parasites.
 

Anthony.Luciano710

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well guess im just going to have to risk everything and do hypo salinity on my display tank because i just cant catch the fish. maybe ill try a fish trap but i dont know ive been trying with a net for like a week now and the second it touches the water they all go behind the rocks. but the tangs i might be able to catch its just the firefish that are impossible.
 

Anthony.Luciano710

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ok everyone im taking your advice. i got out 2 fish so far and im having trouble with the rest. im gonna make a fish trap and then whatever left im going to turn up the temp and turn off all pumps to deoxygenate the water so it will just be half dead and i can catch it easily. im gonna need to set up another tank because i have a 10 gallon but its not big enough for everything. so im gonna put some in the 10 gallon and some in a 20 gallon storage bin. any tips?
 

Tommy Boy

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well you're obviouly an "expert" Mr Morrone ill be sure to ask you questions if i ever want to "know it all"

like i said i have ich in my tank it comes and goes with out calming lives and i do nothing but continue to feed my fish well and keep the water quality high.
 

Paul B

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First of all I have to say I have seen Marrone's tanks and they are beautiful and healthy, he also has some of the largest tanks I have even seen in an apartment.
Now I have to reiterate on a few things. It is very true that fish in the sea have paracites, probably all fish in the sea have paracites, but they do not die from paracites. Yes it is true that the fish is not confined and the paracites just mature and fall off the fish but that is why I said it is "my opinion" about the breeding condition. I have no other way of acertaining why my fish do not get ich except that since they have been in breeding condition and are actively spawning they do not, ever get ich. Even if I put an ich infested fish in my tank (don't do this unless you have my tank) no other fish will exhibit a paracite. I have done this countless times over decades and I can not think of any other thing it could be. As I said, if one of my fish is terminally ill from either jumping out or being bullied, he will get ich.
A few years ago I asked if anyone on RC wanted to put a fish in my reef with ich to test this, no one responded but that is how sure I am of my research.
Before we invented captive reefs no fish were healthy and ich was rampant. If it were not for copper, there would be no salt water fish hobby because we had to keep copper in the water continousely. Now the tanks are much healthier and we can get fish into excellent condition if we want.
I have found, through my research and my 40 years of diving (not only in resorts but off my boat with my equipment) that fish are extreamly lacking in one thing in their diet and that is oil. It is not added to commercially prepared food because it goes bad in the presence of oxygen. In the sea fish eat mostly fish. A fish could be 15% oil all concentrated in the liver. If a shark eats a 100lb fish, it is getting 15 lbs of fish oil. For some reason this oil seems to be a key ingredient in fish health. For a fish to spawn or at least produce eggs it needs to take in much more food of the proper type than it normally needs to stay alive. If you have ever cut open a fish with eggs you will notice that the eggs take up much of the fishes weight. 1/4 of the weight of a fish could be eggs. This is an enormous burdon on the fish and those eggs are mostly oil. Fish can make this oil from other foods but it is much easier for them if they are fed oil.
This all came together for me in 1972 when I was breeding blue devils. They were living fine (except for having ich all the time) but after I started feeding them live blackworms (which are full of oil) they started to spawn and for reasons unknown to me at the time I didn't have to keep copper in the water any longer. Those fish lived and spawned for me for 7 years. Not a great feat today but then it was unheard of.
The best food for fish is whole fish, that is something that as far as I know is not sold commercially in the sizes we need. I spoke to "Ocean Nutrition" about this. If you dive and watch closely especially near the sand, you willl see multitudes of fry. This represents a large part of the diet of fish we commonly keep, even tangs. Those fry have a large portion of oil in them.
I know very well the life cycle of ich and I know what the researchers say about ich, I even know some of the researchers and some of the "facts" are wrong. That is the reason some of us never have to quarantine and some of us better quarantine. Ich is not cut and dry. I believe breeding fish become immune or at least there is something in their slime that wards off ich. I am not a scientist or marine biologist but I think I have studied this paracite longer than, or at least as long as them.
If someone can come up with a theory as to why some tanks seem to be immune I am interested in knowing.
Why after 40 years I do not have to quarantine after adding multitudes of things from the sea and purchasing animals from a large variety of LFSs all over NY. Some of my fish are 16 years old and others have lived longer. There is no evidence of ich on anything in my tank. I can't figure out why but I wish I could. If we knew that, it would save a lot of fish for many people.
By the way, I am in no way trying to disrespect anyone, as I said I saw Marrone's tanks and I assume KathyCs tanks are also awesome.
I probably don't have the greatest tank on here but it ain't too bad either. :tongue1:
Have a great New Year.
Paul
 

Paul B

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well you're obviouly an "expert" Mr Morrone ill be sure to ask you questions if i ever want to "know it all"

Actually I have met Marrone and he is a very knowledable and nice guy.
I even gave him a couple of fish.
He is not wrong in his ich beliefs nor am I. This hobby is all opinions based on our own personal experiences with our tanks.
 

KathyC

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ok everyone im taking your advice. i got out 2 fish so far and im having trouble with the rest. im gonna make a fish trap and then whatever left im going to turn up the temp and turn off all pumps to deoxygenate the water so it will just be half dead and i can catch it easily. im gonna need to set up another tank because i have a 10 gallon but its not big enough for everything. so im gonna put some in the 10 gallon and some in a 20 gallon storage bin. any tips?

Here's a tip.
It's a hell of a lot easier to take half of the water out and try and catch the fish.
You could also 'chase' the fish to one end of the tank and build a small 'wall' out of some rock - or a piece of plexiglass to herd all of the fish into one area and then catch them.
Deoxygenating the water is an awful idea IMO
 

dj ze

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all i can say is that anyone that says ich is not a big deal obviously doesn't know what there talking about or never really dealt with ich because like marrone said it can whipe out a whole system
 

Jzhou

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all i can say is that anyone that says ich is not a big deal obviously doesn't know what there talking about or never really dealt with ich because like marrone said it can whipe out a whole system
+1, It happened to me when I was 10. The answer to that issue my parents not wanting to have to spend to restock my tanks was get me a UV. And the way he described it seems like he might be talking about treating freshwater ich, which of course can be cured with heat as temp. over 90 prevents them from multipling.
 

Anthony.Luciano710

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so what should i do for the quarantine hyposalinity or copper medication. which is easier and faster. (i would think copper). i just want to get the fish healthy again in the quarantine without having to do daily water changes with hypo salinity. what would you guys recommend. i know copper can be harmful to the fish but im willing to risk it. there pretty hardy.
 

KathyC

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so what should i do for the quarantine hyposalinity or copper medication. which is easier and faster. (i would think copper). i just want to get the fish healthy again in the quarantine without having to do daily water changes with hypo salinity. what would you guys recommend. i know copper can be harmful to the fish but im willing to risk it. there pretty hardy.

Chosing which course to take (hypo or copper) depends on how bad the fish are infected. It they are bad, then copper, if not then hypo.

Either way if you have just set up the QT tanks (weren't you setting up 2 tanks IIRC?), you will be doing frequent water changes due to the cycle that will happen in the tank/s.
You will have to check ammonia levels in the tanks each day.

You will also have to check copper levels daily - with a Copper test kit - if you do copper. If you do not keep the copper level right where it needs to be then the treatment is useless.

The same goes for hypo - you need a refractometer to check the SG daily and to keep it at 1.009 or it will not kill the free swinnimg Ich.

What equipment do you have in the QT tank/s? Did you put PVC pipe in for the fish to hide in? Heaters? a hang on filter? Air stone & pump?
 

Anthony.Luciano710

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yea i said i would set up 2 tanks but i think it would be to much work with 3 tanks to take care of and doing frequent water changes. but in the 10 gallon quarantine. i have a hand on back filter, air pump with air stone, 200w heater. i have to keep that at 68 degrees for it to actually be 77 because yea it was for a 55 gallon i had previously. and i had just some freshwater fake hiding spots like a castle and a fake log and stuff but they seem pretty happy. i don't want to buy a copper test kit. cant i just follow the instructions. oh and i bought a refractometer so it should come in the mail in 2 weeks or so. im going to a lfs today specializing in reefs so i can probably get some more info from them too.
Chosing which course to take (hypo or copper) depends on how bad the fish are infected. It they are bad, then copper, if not then hypo.

Either way if you have just set up the QT tanks (weren't you setting up 2 tanks IIRC?), you will be doing frequent water changes due to the cycle that will happen in the tank/s.
You will have to check ammonia levels in the tanks each day.

You will also have to check copper levels daily - with a Copper test kit - if you do copper. If you do not keep the copper level right where it needs to be then the treatment is useless.

The same goes for hypo - you need a refractometer to check the SG daily and to keep it at 1.009 or it will not kill the free swinnimg Ich.

What equipment do you have in the QT tank/s? Did you put PVC pipe in for the fish to hide in? Heaters? a hang on filter? Air stone & pump?
 

KathyC

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If you don't want to buy a copper test kit, then don't try and use copper to cure your fish as you MUST have the correct copper level - which you won't have a clue about without a test kit. You'd be wasting your time as at the incorrect level, it will not kill the Ich.

As far as a refractometer - wasn't it you I sent the info on where you could get a refractometer delivered to your home by the next day with no extra shipping charge?? Not sure where you are getting it but 2 weeks delivery time seems kinda long.
Again, without one you will have no idea what the SG is of the water and will be unable to keep it at 1.009 .
 

Anthony.Luciano710

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yea i think so but i just completely forgot about it i was just so worried about getting the ich out of the tank i just went on ebay and bought one for $30 really quick but i didn't know it would take two weeks so i guess i screwed up but thanks anyway for the link
If you don't want to buy a copper test kit, then don't try and use copper to cure your fish as you MUST have the correct copper level - which you won't have a clue about without a test kit. You'd be wasting your time as at the incorrect level, it will not kill the Ich.

As far as a refractometer - wasn't it you I sent the info on where you could get a refractometer delivered to your home by the next day with no extra shipping charge?? Not sure where you are getting it but 2 weeks delivery time seems kinda long.
Again, without one you will have no idea what the SG is of the water and will be unable to keep it at 1.009 .
 

KathyC

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Kathy, what is your view on methyl blue. I tend to use that in combination with hypo salinity when I QT.

What are you using it for - it's antibiotic properties?
IMO that's all it would be useful for, but then again in a QT (being a quarintine tank where you are simply observing the fish - as opposed to a hospital tank where you are treating fish ) I don't think any chemicals/meds should be used UNLESS there is clearly something you have positively ID'd and requires treatment.

In case this comes up next (;)) I do not believe in Malachite Green AT ALL. While it can be used to treat ich - again IMO - it is way too dangerous a chemical to use on our fish due in part to it being a carcinogen and the fact that there is no way to monitor the dosage level, while it will kill Marine Ich, you'd also most likely kill the fish too.
 

Paul B

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Malachite green doesn't have much use for salt water although I used it for years in fresh water for certain paracites. It is not the best medication.
I do use methelyne blue all the time but not for ich. It is mainly used as an antifungal medication for fish eggs. I use it sometimes in my live worm keeper. It helps transport oxygen in the blood and is even used in humans for that purpose. For fish it is also used to treat cyanide or nitrite poisoning. Those toxins cause a component in the blood (hemoglobin) to be converted to methemoglobin. Methyline blue converts it back to hemoglobin so it can again carry oxygen.
So for my worm spawns it helps in two way, it helps transport oxygen and it prevents slight fungal infections. It used to be used for saltwater ich but it does not work for that purpose.
The best medication for ich by far is copper and quinicrine hydrocloride together. (if you can get it) It is for malaria in humans and not easy to get in the states but that combination will clear ich in about a day. But the fish must stay in the medication for 10 days. If you can't get the quinicrine, the copper is the next best thing.
None of these things can be used with corals or inverts.
 

Jzhou

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I tend to use Methyl blue and Hypo salinity for qt in an attempt to knock off whatever parasite there might be in the fish for the first few weeks. I especially like using it for tangs since some are more sensitive to copper.
 

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