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qy7400

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Yeah, I'm not too sure either but I plan on setting the thermostat on 74 so it shouldn't be too hard on the compressor. If it was air conditioned down to 65 then there might be an issue. I think I should be ok. I hope.

Play it safe and add a few humistats around the room, they're like $20 at Radio Shack; 12K should keep 74 easily but humidity may be another story with all the open tops.
 

albano

Saltwater since 1973
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I plan on setting the thermostat on 74
FOR WHAT? are you gonna keep cold water fish, at 74 you may need the tank heaters on! Do you plan to raise it to 80+ in the winter? Humidity is the key! 'Air Conditioned' air is VERY comfortable at 78-79, and saves $ (business tip: the less $ you spend, the more $ you keep)
 

AlohaTropics

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Long Island
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If I keep the air at 74, you have to add about 2 degrees worth of equipment pumps, and room lighting. The system should stay at a constant 76 degrees. IMO, 80 is way to warm to keep corals at. 76 has always been my optimum temp.
 

albano

Saltwater since 1973
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If I keep the air at 74, you have to add about 2 degrees worth of equipment pumps, and room lighting. The system should stay at a constant 76 degrees. IMO, 80 is way to warm
Sorry, I wasn't clear, I was referring only to room temp., where 78 'air conditioned degrees' is very nice, and kidding that 80 in winter is a more comfortable ambient temp.........anyway, LOVE the build, hope to see it in person, keep me informed on sunbrites.
 

flipit13

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Location
ny
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hey aloha
i know you have sent tons and are you much more into reef than me but i see 80 degrees as a low point or at most the medium point for most reefers that i know..... my tank runs at the top 83 and i know people wont admit to it but so do theirs. i have also did research and alot of the corals that are desired for are out of water for more that 3 hours and in the blazing heat of triangle. i know what sites say about temp but arent we tryin to recreate the same in our tanks? not tryin to sound like a dumbass but just tryin to point out a fact. also know a few divers in austraila that they have recorded temps above 80 degrees below 3' so a degree or 2 would not be to huge of a concern
 

juiceguy

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brooklyn
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looking good. i agree on the temps running around 80 degrees is more the norm today. do you plan on using any 3/4" foam boards under the tanks? it looks like you have the tanks sitting over the plywood bare.
 

AlohaTropics

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Long Island
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Hi Flipit, you are right, it really doesn't hurt the corals if the temp is 80 or 82. What really causes stress and coral bleaching is inconsistency. A swelling of temperatures that fluctuates even modestly but constantly can be bad. I may try to keep my system at around 78. I know zooxanthellae get stressed at temps above 84-85 so IMO keeping your tank at 82 is pushing things to the limit. 76-80 I find a good range but my alarm goes off when my tank hits 81.
 

AlohaTropics

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Long Island
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looking good. i agree on the temps running around 80 degrees is more the norm today. do you plan on using any 3/4" foam boards under the tanks? it looks like you have the tanks sitting over the plywood bare.

I thought about it, but the area that the whole system is built around is so unlevel it was a nightmare just to get things even. I figured plywood would keep the tanks more "straight". Whats the advantage of using foamboard?
 

juiceguy

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brooklyn
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i have a custom tank on order and it has no plastic frame around the perimeter, so the weight is distributed evenly on the bottom glass pane. when you have a tank made this way, you need 1/2"-3/4" foam insulation board between the bottom glass panel and the plywood so it evens out any discrepancies in the ply and also the tanks weight is distributed more evenly across the stand. only a "rimmed" tank can rest on the bare wood.
 

ClosetFishGeek

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i have a custom tank on order and it has no plastic frame around the perimeter, so the weight is distributed evenly on the bottom glass pane. when you have a tank made this way, you need 1/2"-3/4" foam insulation board between the bottom glass panel and the plywood so it evens out any discrepancies in the ply and also the tanks weight is distributed more evenly across the stand. only a "rimmed" tank can rest on the bare wood.


Correct...I do the same on tanks that are less than 300 gallons. On tanks larger I would use 1/2 ply & 1/2 homasote. I have seen some styro completely compress under very heavy loads...This combo is used by AGE, Coast to Coast and many others for there large setups...
 

AlohaTropics

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Long Island
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Here's my situation. My main tank is 270 gallon rimless but i didn't use plywood. I have the tank sitting on a 2x4 box with 2 extra beams that run across the each 1/3 of the tank bottom. There is no plywood under this tank. The other tanks that sit on plywood are only 12" in height so I figured there is much less weight and it would be okay. Do you think I'll have problems with the main tank or the small ones without foam boards?
 

NYreefNoob

Skimmer Freak
Location
poughquag, ny
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the foam as stated it to keep un-even pressure on the bottom of the tank and possible causing a stress or break in the tank, ive always had a piece of plywood with foam under my tanks, wood eventually warps and the foam helps absorb the warpage or bends to the wood once under pressure
 

juiceguy

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Location
brooklyn
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that also goes for the 270g, your support on the perimeter and the braces running laterally will not support the tank, throw on a 3/4" ply to support the weight evenly and also use the 3/4" foam board.
 

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