Need Lighting Experts Recommendations for Setup.

[TheReefDaVinci]

Well as the title states I'm looking for some opinions on lighting recommendations for a new aquarium I am setting up in my bedroom. This is going to be a Nano Aquarium (20 gallons in total water volume) housed in an All Glass Aquarium (measuremtns are 12.5 Inches in Height x 12.5 Inches in Depth x 23 inches in Length) (Length is actually 30 Inches but the additional 7 inches are being utilized for house the internal protein skimmer, automatic water topoff, chiller and circulation pump. This is going to be an SPS Dominated Aquarium. I would like to maximize my lighting potential since heat will not be an issue (I will have a 1/4 HP Chiller connected). My main concern is too much lighting which would lead to the death of my corals. What amount of Metal Halide lighting would you recommend? 70 Watt Metal Halide? 150 Watt Matel Halide? 250 Watt Metal Halide? Thank you in advanced for any recommendations.

 

[AlohaTropics]

One problem you will run into with a tank that size and Metal Halide is maintaining stable temperatures. The low water volume will drastically heat up in the 8 hour photo period. I ran into the same issue with my 20" Solana Cube. I had a 250W HQI Current Fixture and my temp went from 74-79 everyday even with a cooling fan running under it.

Have you looked into Sunbrite LEDs? The cost is a slightly higher but the savings in electricity and bulb replacement, not to mention 0 heat transfer will pay for the difference in about 2 years. Sunbrite also gives you option to pick and choose up to 8 bulbs that fit into their fixtures just like T5 tubes so if you want to run less power, just use less bulbs. You have the option of 440 actinic, 470 actinic, 12000K 16000K 22000K Daylight bulbs so you can also control the color temperature. Send me a PM if you have further questions!

 

[mr_X]

a 70 watt halide would be fine for a 12" deep tank. the OP's chiller will keep the temp stable. as far as saving power, you are only going to save a few watts using the led fixture, since we're talking 70 watts total.

i wouldn't even bother with a protein skimmer on a 20 gallon tank. i think it's a waste of good real estate.

 

[AlohaTropics]

a 70 watt halide would be fine for a 12" deep tank. the OP's chiller will keep the temp stable. as far as saving power, you are only going to save a few watts using the led fixture, since we're talking 70 watts total.

i wouldn't even bother with a protein skimmer on a 20 gallon tank. i think it's a waste of good real estate.

Just to clarify, a 12" sunbrite fixture running 2 daylights and 2 actinic (I don't think you need more than that) will run approx. 20W which will save you 50W. You won't need to run the chiller which can use a lot of wattage. If you keep your room a stable 72, you won't need a heater either. The bulbs will last you about 9 years so thats saving you 9 bulb replacements too.

I agree with the skimmer, 2 gallon water changes every few days is easy to do and can keep new water flowing constantly.

 

[TheReefDaVinci]

Reply to AlohaTropics.

One problem you will run into with a tank that size and Metal Halide is maintaining stable temperatures. The low water volume will drastically heat up in the 8 hour photo period. I ran into the same issue with my 20" Solana Cube. I had a 250W HQI Current Fixture and my temp went from 74-79 everyday even with a cooling fan running under it.

Have you looked into Sunbrite LEDs? The cost is a slightly higher but the savings in electricity and bulb replacement, not to mention 0 heat transfer will pay for the difference in about 2 years. Sunbrite also gives you option to pick and choose up to 8 bulbs that fit into their fixtures just like T5 tubes so if you want to run less power, just use less bulbs. You have the option of 440 actinic, 470 actinic, 12000K 16000K 22000K Daylight bulbs so you can also control the color temperature. Send me a PM if you have further questions!

AlohaTropics, thank you for the information. I have wanted to stay away from LED's just because I don't want to loose that shimmer effect that Metal Halides have. But I'm willing to give it a try. Will the LED's be able to support the lighting requirement of High Lighting Demand SPS Corals? My concern is mostly for the health of the animals I'm keeping and not really too much on my electric bill. Also how do the Subbrite Bulbs Compare to that of the Current USA Powerbrites?

 

[TheReefDaVinci]

Reply to Mr_X.

a 70 watt halide would be fine for a 12" deep tank. the OP's chiller will keep the temp stable. as far as saving power, you are only going to save a few watts using the led fixture, since we're talking 70 watts total.

i wouldn't even bother with a protein skimmer on a 20 gallon tank. i think it's a waste of good real estate.

Mr_X, I actually have already purchased an in tank Protein Skimmer. It's a Tunze DOC 9010 which is rated for 264 gallons of water. Doesn't eat up much in the way of realty but I figure that I would be more suited to have it then to not.

 

[AlohaTropics]

The Sunbrite LED has shown to out perform metal halides in PAR readings so you definitely wont have a problem with high lighting demand. The Current Powerbrites, as far as I know, are not suppose to be a "main lighting source" as they are add-ons to PC and T5 to help give the shimmer effect. With Sunbrite, you will have a shimmer effect though not to the degree as metal halide. here are a few links with good info and comparisons:

About the Sunbrite LED. Here is the official Data Chart that show performance comparisons to non LED units.

http://www.exotic-aquarium.com/sub/datachart.jpg

Here are a few videos:

PAR Output Test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD5yy0RDwxQ

Easy Install into Sunbrite fixture
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oggv8gYU6dE

Easy hookups without a fixture
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkLb1LU9ezA


Although the bulbs can be run without the fixture, the fixture does have an integrated digital timer that controls all 8 bulbs individually. This is how you can simulate sunrise and sunset. You also purchase the bulbs individually so you can configure your light exactly the way you want it in terms of nm and K's.

Each fixture can hold and control up to 8 bulbs. The fixtures and bulbs come in 12", 24", 36", 48", 60" and 72".

If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.

Check Out this ReefBuilders Video!

http://www.reefbuilders.com/2009/04/14/sunbrite-lighting-system-rethinking-implement-aquarium-leds/

 

[TheReefDaVinci]

Does anyone have a link to where I can look at purchasing the Sunbrite LED for my system?

 

[mcnuggget]

try here http://www.exotic-aquarium.com/led.html

 

[reefman]

try wingo, a member here at mr, he can probabaly custom built u something or provide u with info on leds.

Email [email protected]
347 739 2411

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

consider a 72W (or even 108W) LED version with both Blue and White indepently dimmable.
As it is dimmable, you can adjust the brightness to acclimate your corals.
Please call for details. 347 739 2411

 

[QUESTIONMARC]

if you are handy.. and dont mind doing it yourself.. you can build a fixture that would cost less than 200-250$ in parts, for that size tank, that you could adjust from 10kto 20k by the turn of a knob.. zero heat.. low electric... and no bulb changes for 10years.

also if you decide to go bigger you can reuse the parts. it is all LED. check out emmanuels thread on here about his LED fixture he built for his 125. might give you an idea about what i am talking about..

i see you are in the bronx as well... I built 6 of these panels as well as a nano light.. if you want to see them in action. let me know. you are more than welcome to swing by. 347.614.1814.

 

[sambo]

My 150w sunpod has served me well on my 20 gallon but i think you would have to hang it. The temp does fluctuate quite a bit in the summer months. To combat this I have fans blowing on the surface of both the sump and the main tank. While this is going on the tank is sucking up water like mad (sometimes up to 2 gallons of evap a DAY) so I have to make sure the kalkwasser in my top off bucket is really weak or I'll end up with a spike. I have to keep testing the water and adjust with 2-part as needed. HTH