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Boomer

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There is no GAC carbon in this hobby better than ROX, which I introduced years ago and now being sold by BRS. I have nothing to do with BRS. They go their ROX info from reading my many posts on the RC Chem. Forum.

BRS:


1. ROX>A acid washed peat extruded GAC. It's numbers for our application are the best.


2. Lignite>A acid washed GAC, second in adsorption characteristics to ROX and the same as TLF Hydrocarbon.


3. Bitum>Pretty much the same as ESV GAC.


Note: Bitums have lower adsorption rates that Lignite or ROX.




If one is looking for the premium Bitum, which some like better than Lignite, due to its better hardness factor, there is none better than that Bitum sold by thefilterguys, a acid washed, pH neutral, water rinsed GAC. SeaChems Matrix is also a very high quality GAC. However, it is very expensive / lb or / liter compared to all the others. Even ROX is cheaper and superior to Matrix.





Chem Pure Elite:


A partial ripoff, due to the use of ion-exchangers, which do not work in seawater. Meaning, those ie's are like the DI resin in you DI unit. The ions in seawater will kill them in seconds.




If one is looking for a multiblend then I would suggest Blue-Life Fx. A higher grade Bitum, the same more or less GFO, as CPE and a OSR (organic savernger resin, similar to SeaChem Purigen).




All or any of these will work fine. It is more of the issue of gibberish hype and cost






One last note on adsorption and cost. One can always use more of the cheaper grades. Second, adsorption rates can be misleading at times. For example: GAC A may appear to be better as it will clear a colored dye out of the water quicker in a short time. However, GAC B will remove the same amount but it just takes longer. So, at the end of a longer test both A and B remove the same amount.
 

B1N4RY

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Reply to Boomer.

There is no GAC carbon in this hobby better than ROX, which I introduced years ago and now being sold by BRS. I have nothing to do with BRS. They go their ROX info from reading my many posts on the RC Chem. Forum.

BRS:


1. ROX>A acid washed peat extruded GAC. It's numbers for our application are the best.


2. Lignite>A acid washed GAC, second in adsorption characteristics to ROX and the same as TLF Hydrocarbon.


3. Bitum>Pretty much the same as ESV GAC.


Note: Bitums have lower adsorption rates that Lignite or ROX.




If one is looking for the premium Bitum, which some like better than Lignite, due to its better hardness factor, there is none better than that Bitum sold by thefilterguys, a acid washed, pH neutral, water rinsed GAC. SeaChems Matrix is also a very high quality GAC. However, it is very expensive / lb or / liter compared to all the others. Even ROX is cheaper and superior to Matrix.





Chem Pure Elite:


A partial ripoff, due to the use of ion-exchangers, which do not work in seawater. Meaning, those ie's are like the DI resin in you DI unit. The ions in seawater will kill them in seconds.




If one is looking for a multiblend then I would suggest Blue-Life Fx. A higher grade Bitum, the same more or less GFO, as CPE and a OSR (organic savernger resin, similar to SeaChem Purigen).




All or any of these will work fine. It is more of the issue of gibberish hype and cost






One last note on adsorption and cost. One can always use more of the cheaper grades. Second, adsorption rates can be misleading at times. For example: GAC A may appear to be better as it will clear a colored dye out of the water quicker in a short time. However, GAC B will remove the same amount but it just takes longer. So, at the end of a longer test both A and B remove the same amount.

Thank you very much that was a lot of useful information! I definitely appreciate it.
 

Boomer

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The std rate dosage is 1/3 cup ROX / 50 gals., if you are currently using GAC. If you have never used GAC, then use ROX at 1/4 of that 1/3 cup and increase it over a month to 1/3 cup. However, even if you are using GAC I would start ROX at 1/2 that 1/3 cup and increase it to that 1/3 cup in a month, as ROX is a very fast absorber. Corals really need to be acclimated to the lower nutient load. Dropping the nutrient load to fast can crash corals at times. Same goes for corals added to high nutient load waters, i.e., should be acclimated.
 

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