fishfreak1242

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I am just starting out with SPS. I started with a green monti cap which was growing well so I decided to get a few more and now I have a blue tip mille, a purple nana and a bali green slimer. I do have one question though, is it bad if the corals touch each other? I just want to make sure that I don't kill my coral over something stupid like that. Thanks.
-Julien
 

Simon Garratt

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In most cases mixing species will result in one coral over powering the other, by one coral literally trying to digest the other. If it cant digest it, then it will simply try outgrowing and smothering the opposition. In some cases you can mix certain members of the same family together with little aggression, IE one coral will simply grow around the other and both will form a sort of tolerance for the other, although long term one may still start to shade out the other if it grows faster. I have a Montipora hirsuta and M.Undata growing together with minimal aggression as well as 3 differing colour morphs of M.capricornis all growing together. whilst there isn't any visible 'damage' caused to any particular colony in these cases, there is definitely some degree of inhibition that goes on at the boarders, so even members of the same species with differing colouration may show some degree of semi intolerance on occasions.

In most cases Ive seen its usually Montiporas that can be mixed, and occasionally differing colour morphs of A.millipora whist there are very few cases Ive seen where vastly differing Acroporas such as A.tenuis, and A.loripes can be left to grow near each other. What seems a common case ime is that those species with larger polyps tend to have a stronger stinging capacity and intolerance for other species, over those with smaller polyps.

Ultimate success in allot of cases ime rests on how healthy the individuals are and how well established. In the cases of a healthy coral, it will commonly take a bit of damage from its neighbour, stop growing in that spot, and start growing somewhere else as a means of expansion. whilst weak colonies tend to go down hill quickly from damage caused by aggression or suffer infections or RTN. I think allot of this depends on how much energy is available to the coral in terms of both nutrients derived from photosynthesis, and nutrients derived from active prey capture that go toward repairing and building new tissue. get enough food into them, and its surprising just how much abuse a coral can take and still come back strong.

regards

Simon.
 
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fishfreak1242

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In most cases mixing species will result in one coral over powering the other, by one coral literally trying to digest the other. If it cant digest it, then it will simply try outgrowing and smothering the opposition. In some cases you can mix certain members of the same family together with little aggression, IE one coral will simply grow around the other and both will form a sort of tolerance for the other, although long term one may still start to shade out the other if it grows faster. I have a Montipora hirsuta and M.Undata growing together with minimal aggression as well as 3 differing colour morphs of M.capricornis all growing together. whilst there isn't any visible 'damage' caused to any particular colony in these cases, there is definitely some degree of inhibition that goes on at the boarders, so even members of the same species with differing colouration may show some degree of semi intolerance on occasions.

In most cases Ive seen its usually Montiporas that can be mixed, and occasionally differing colour morphs of A.millipora whist there are very few cases Ive seen where vastly differing Acroporas such as A.tenuis, and A.loripes can be left to grow near each other. What seems a common case ime is that those species with larger polyps tend to have a stronger stinging capacity and intolerance for other species, over those with smaller polyps.

Ultimate success in allot of cases ime rests on how healthy the individuals are and how well established. In the cases of a healthy coral, it will commonly take a bit of damage from its neighbour, stop growing in that spot, and start growing somewhere else as a means of expansion. whilst weak colonies tend to go down hill quickly from damage caused by aggression or suffer infections or RTN. I think allot of this depends on how much energy is available to the coral in terms of both nutrients derived from photosynthesis, and nutrients derived from active prey capture that go toward repairing and building new tissue. get enough food into them, and its surprising just how much abuse a coral can take and still come back strong.

regards

Simon.
Thankyou that helps alot. Will any of the SPS kill each other? Right now the only ones that are somewhat close to each other are my Purple Nana and my green monti cap. They are about 1 1/2" apart. Also one quick question, how do you actually feed the coral? I've always thought that they feed on extra food when I feed my fish and on my lights.
 

Simon Garratt

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Thankyou that helps alot. Will any of the SPS kill each other? Right now the only ones that are somewhat close to each other are my Purple Nana and my green monti cap. They are about 1 1/2" apart. Also one quick question, how do you actually feed the coral? I've always thought that they feed on extra food when I feed my fish and on my lights.
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Small Polyped Scleractinians - Sometimes known as Small Polyped Stony corals. These are hard corals that have extremely small polyps. They are typically on the difficult side and require Metal Halide lighting or dense Power Compact or T5 arrays. These corals are prized for their rareness and ability to be easily fragged into multiple colonies.
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Difficult to say to be honest in regards to the nana/cap issue. chances are the nana will out sting the monti, but the monti has growth rate potential on its side. even then, its different scenarios for different tanks.

As for feeding (which is a huge subject) , then yes the corals will pick up the very fine particulates that come in your frozen and flake foods as well as feeding on the fish waste itself. which is why for a great many years people believed most corals didnt actually need feeding and got all thier nutrition from light. these days we are a little wiser and accept that light only fullfils a portion of the nutritional requirements of photosynthetic corals and accept that they are in fact quite greedy little beggars that can tuck away food far more than we at first thought..

Generally you can add anything you like as long as its small enough, and differing corals will take different sized foods dependent on the polyps capabilities and physical size.

red plankton, rotifers and a whole host of other small food types are ideal (you can even blend standard fish food into very fine slush and add that). but be carefull with the amount to start with. heavy feeding is good as long as you give the system time to adapt to it. In a healthy system, as you increase the input over time, the critter population will expand to take care of the surplus whilst your corals grow and take up more of what you put in. the corals also need to learn and recognise the food sources (ie they will after a while start to recognise the chemical signatures of foods added and expand accordingly at feeding times if you put a small squirt of food in ten mins prior to the main feed.

I mainly feed my fish several times over the day and then add a dedicated mix of fine foods after lights out when the majority of corals have expanded fully into night time feeding mode, but differing systems will have different scenarios with some tanks having full polyp extention all day long so its basically trial and error.

Ultimately though, let your test kit readings direct you. learn when to back off a bit and when its ok to increase based on what your No3 and Po4 readings are telling you. also keep a log so you can see trends. a 0.2ppm No3 climb per week may not seem alot, but it can catch you out if you ignore it for 3 months. so what you are realy aiming for is to be able to chuck in as much food as possible without upsetting your tanks stability...food is good, exess nutrients are bad....its allways a balancing act.

As a very loose comment Id say in general its easyer to heavy feed tanks with alot of corals, compared to those with just a few (many more mouths to catch passing prey) so it is a slow process, Theres no point in chucking in food that isnt being utilised to the best of the stocks capability early on so build it up over time and as your coral collection grows.

Regards

Simon.

The rewards though ime are worth the extra effort. You'll generally see better growth rates, better colouration, and more durability from the corals in relation to other perameters.
 

finksmart

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Also IME polyps that have one tentacle that's longer than the rest generally out-sting those that don't. The longer the tentacle the more aggressive it seems - it can touch its neighbor with shorter tentacles and sting it first before the neighbor can do anything about it.
 

fishfreak1242

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Thanks that helps alot. Right now what I feed my tank is about a quarter of a cube of mysis or brine every other day. I only have 2 fish and 2 shrimp and my coral, so my bioload is low. Thanks for all of the help everyone.
 

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