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tunicata

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That one is surely easier than finding all sorts of metal rods, being worried about sucessfully plugging LEDs from getting wet, etc. but I'm not sure if that last one is worth the sime since that one most resembles a regular fuge, just that one is stand alone.

I have a friend that uses a 12 bulb Par38 LED bulb, similar to the one they sell on Rapid Led but cheaper (I just ordered one off of amazon that is red and blue so I'll let you know how that color works for me) and his fuge ...well, you can't even see anything but chaeto in just a couple of weeks.

Also, I did some research after seeing a guy selling something that looks and works like 95% or more like the one the original OP made.

I think the main difference between the one the OP made and most other macro reactors is that it has the light tube in the middle. Everything else is the same because it needs water to flow through an input and output section.

Here is one I saw on RC. I would have bought it if the reactor, plus light, plus shipping and paypal fees did not add to $160+ (when I can just buy the $20-30 par38 bulb and get chaeto to grow like crazy if Light is the limiting factor for my system)

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2441489

When I saw this, I looked around online to find the name and brand and found:
Proficiensea Plankton Reactor aka Cleartides
http://www.cleartides.com/page25.htm

The guy pencil3 says his looks like that but isn't that brand. His lights and the ones I posted use a regular T5 bulb that is pushed into a sealed transparent inner tube. Pencil3 somehow had a waterproof cap on his as well (said it was not necessary).

So that suggests there are a couple/few cost effective ways to achieve the chaeto/macro reactor that has the LED or other Light tube in the middle of the water flow.
 
So after some minor adjustments I'm getting a full reactor every 1-2 weeks

anevynen.jpg
 

tunicata

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I'm wondering how this differs from folks that have successful chaeto growth with the typical set up.

How can we compare something like this? Is it worth comparing in general or only for people where using a reactor to grow chaeto is more practical/efficient than the regular fuge space in the sump.

I now have 2 friends that can fill out a basketball full of chaeto in up to 2wks using either a high wattage LED bulb or a combo of high t5 bulbs. All of that is within sump though, so of course, the needs for physical set up differs amongst our tanks.

I just bought my par38 and it's much higher wattage than the regular CFL I was using....
 
I'm wondering how this differs from folks that have successful chaeto growth with the typical set up.

How can we compare something like this? Is it worth comparing in general or only for people where using a reactor to grow chaeto is more practical/efficient than the regular fuge space in the sump.

I now have 2 friends that can fill out a basketball full of chaeto in up to 2wks using either a high wattage LED bulb or a combo of high t5 bulbs. All of that is within sump though, so of course, the needs for physical set up differs amongst our tanks.

I just bought my par38 and it's much higher wattage than the regular CFL I was using....

From my understanding, the advantage of having chaeto in a reactor is that since it's in a closed chamber, the algae gets the nutrients it needs to grow strictly from the water that passes through it. By growing it in a sump, it allows for gas exchange to occur at the surface of the water as well as through the aquarium water. The reactor basically absorbs all excess CO2 in the water because it is its only source of CO2. Additionally, by allowing it to grow in a reactor, the algae gets an even and continuous flow which erase the possibility for dead spots. I would think it also illuminates it evenly, whereas, when it grows in your sump, probably the top is growing at a faster rate than the bottom if you're not trimming properly.

I used to grow chaeto in a 30G X-high tank and it was light by 3 CFLs that I retrofitted into a single tube fluorescent fixture housing. That used to fill about every 2-3 weeks but it was a ton of chaeto since the whole tank used to fill.

Honestly, I don't test so I can't make draw a conclusion on what the real advantages are in my particular system but maybe others can chime in.
 

tunicata

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Yes, I mainly want evidence from more owners of the original product and folks with an offshoot to showcase if chaeto alone, even with high growth removes the need for a protein skimmer (and use no other additives or methods to control phosphate and nitrate including starving fish and corals)

I have tons of algae growth on my sump and my phosphates are super low but my nitrates are only low because I use bacterial additives, dose vinegar and have a good skimmer.
 
Yes, I mainly want evidence from more owners of the original product and folks with an offshoot to showcase if chaeto alone, even with high growth removes the need for a protein skimmer (and use no other additives or methods to control phosphate and nitrate including starving fish and corals)

I have tons of algae growth on my sump and my phosphates are super low but my nitrates are only low because I use bacterial additives, dose vinegar and have a good skimmer.
Sorry for the late reply.

According to Pax Bellum, my DIY should have never lasted this long or at the very least it should have flooded my basement but let's not jinx that. In any case I'm trying to say that my reactor is apparently not comparable to theirs so idk if my experience is worth the comparison. But anyways.......

Unfortunately I have no time to test at the time being but I will get to it once some time frees up. What I can say is this which can be used as partial evidence for my phosphates. I do run GFO and ever since I got rid of red slime the reactor has been growing algae at a tremendous rate due to the lack of competition between the red slime and chaeto. However, given the GFO and reactor I still have that green film algae growth on my glass every other day so phosphates can't be all that a low.

It's also worth noting the following though. I have about 20 or so fish, 3 of them being tangs. I have an automatic feeder that feeds the fish pellets and flakes 2 times a day along with sporadic supplemental feedings of 4 different frozen cubes and possibly fresh lettuce. My remote fuge has at least an 8" DSB 12?24 with 2 large mangroves. Also there is a 12?12 section with 4 different macros that also grow fairly well. And lastly my DT also has another 3" or so DSB.

I still use a skimmer and I would never consider getting rid of it because, even if it's not producing much, I think anything a skimmer produces is very concentrated, so I'm sure a little can go a long way plus it helps to aerate the water.

In the end I guess I'll have to wait to see what the tank will look like now that I'm having this accelerated growth and test to see where I am.
 

tunicata

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Oh wow, you have a lot going on with that tank/system.

I would love to see your huge mangroves. I haven't had them for awhile and I've been wondering about getting some seeds again. I just like the way they look.
 

vio

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Yes, I mainly want evidence from more owners of the original product and folks with an offshoot to showcase if chaeto alone, even with high growth removes the need for a protein skimmer (and use no other additives or methods to control phosphate and nitrate including starving fish and corals)

I have tons of algae growth on my sump and my phosphates are super low but my nitrates are only low because I use bacterial additives, dose vinegar and have a good skimmer.

+1, I use to grow 4 Basket balls of Macro (90 Gal. sump) reduce "0" phosphate, try to remove faster you can the Detritus, i give up on GFO, Active Carbon, i run 3 Vortech MP40 , 2 Maxspect XF150 Gyre , i got pumps even in sump , i use to dose 40 ml. of Vodka i reduce to 20 ml. i use also Biopeletts (good for only 100 Gal. i got 220 Gal. tank and 90 gal. sump) i don't see any benefit of Macro Algae, i clean the sump every two months (Diatom Filter) try to remove any small amount of Detritus. I got undetectable PO4 or Nitrate, i will try to remove some BioPeletts.
 

cmantis

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I should have really tested my water before I just did a big water change and got the arid nano going. All I can say is that I am sure my nitrate were through the roof. Even with no light on the tank it was disgusting. I have two golden angels going in today and wanted to get the water a bit cleaner so did a big water change. I will test anyways though when I get a chance to give you some idea. I dont dare turn it off.
 

tunicata

Tunicate Tamer
Location
Brooklyn, NY
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163   0   0
Whoooaa Vio. Is this the 7ft tank? That's a lot of pumps. Can I see how you have the pumos in the sump?

I was thinking about removing my filter socks but want anither way to keep detritus out of the sump.

My nitrates stay in the 10 to 20 range despite chaeto, dosing no pox (which is vinegar and vodka), and only feed 5x a week max (usually 3). I only have 5 fish.

I just want to see nitrates get to 0 (phosphates are fine). I want to maintain 5 to 10 or so. Max 15. But until I figure out how to control it properly i.e how much bacterial additives and food I want to get that 0 baseline.
 

vio

Advanced Reefer
Location
Manhattan
Rating - 98.9%
271   3   0
Whoooaa Vio. Is this the 7ft tank? That's a lot of pumps. Can I see how you have the pumos in the sump?

I was thinking about removing my filter socks but want anither way to keep detritus out of the sump.

My nitrates stay in the 10 to 20 range despite chaeto, dosing no pox (which is vinegar and vodka), and only feed 5x a week max (usually 3). I only have 5 fish.

I just want to see nitrates get to 0 (phosphates are fine). I want to maintain 5 to 10 or so. Max 15. But until I figure out how to control it properly i.e how much bacterial additives and food I want to get that 0 baseline.
I stop testing Nitrate long time ago, i never have anything detect (by the time i decide to run B.B, sand i consider "Luxury" require high mant. and only problems , regarding Nitrate and PO4) Berlin sucks ( sucks to be clean) i try to give up list 15-20 times, is true the most clean water they do the job, but like almost everything else may increase the PO4 by the time you clean it, also NOT sure how many ppl. rinse the sucks with RO/DI , by rinsing w/top water, we may introduce more Copper or bad minerals, so i decide to stop for now, also NO more LR in my sump, holds more Detritus then i need, i run one 900 gal. pump (cheep ) next to return , to help me to remove how much i can Detritus, push the water back to Protein Skimmer, give some time delay to the water before go back to the tank, make my Protein Skimmer more efficient also NO precipitation on the bottom of the sump.All i got in my sump is Protein Skimmer and BP reactor, also i redo the PS stand dif. to avoid dead spots, i don't run the pumps on 100% i run just to make sure , NO Detritus settle down, tank or sump. Now i need some time to balance the amount of the BP, to much Bacteria is NO good also (Thanks to HUB Bacteria tests) lower the PH, i think (finally) i am close to the most easy way for Low Nutrition. List this this is what i believe.
 
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