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Anonymous
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"Pull a Len"
Phrase of the day!
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Phrase of the day!
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Anonymous
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I got two coats of stain on the stand and hood over the weekend. If any of you can give me some hints to get cherry stain dark I would appreceate it. I have a piece of furniture I am trying to match and it is a bit darker that I am now.
UNfortunately, "cherry" stain itself is a pretty light colored coating. You can try another coat after the first two dry or make a custom blend with another stain. I find that nine times out of ten it isnt worth trying a third coat as the very slightly darker color isnt worth all the work. Im guessing you need more red to the color. Maybe six parts cherry and one part red something. Youd' be suprized how well you can get colors to match. Of course I have ten colors in my truck just for these occasions. But I'd bet you will get it first try.
Do you mean the stain to even up. If so, use the cherry, get your rag real wet and more or less buff the wood. It should help to blend any dark spots. I didnt see written anywhere what kind of wood it is. From the pics it looks like birch to me with a pine of fir trim. Am I guessing right? Birch is one of the softer hardwoods and is very difficult to get to take a stain or varnish real evenly. If you havent done so already, I dont recomend sanding the plywood either as it will effect how the stain and varnish are absorbed. If you want it nice and smooth, sand it after the second coat of varnish and expect the third to be a nice smooth final coat. Well, maybe the fourth.
Disclaimer:
Of course, I dont know every trick to staining and varnishing, Only what I have done wrong and how to fix it. I hope my little bit of experience can help make your job go that much more smoothly for you.
Disclaimer:
Of course, I dont know every trick to staining and varnishing, Only what I have done wrong and how to fix it. I hope my little bit of experience can help make your job go that much more smoothly for you.
I was looking more to get some of the brush strokes out of it. In the lighting I was working in I could not see them. I do not think that is all that uneven as far as the stain. The wood is blondewood. So is the trim except for the corner pieces.
I did lightly sand the wood before I started. I am not going to sand again until after the first coat of varnish. I have some 00000 steal wool that I will use.
I did lightly sand the wood before I started. I am not going to sand again until after the first coat of varnish. I have some 00000 steal wool that I will use.
Wazzel":3ezi6nuv said:
Im not surprized you couldnt see it all. Its tough to build beautiful cabinetry in the garage or driveway. I find that most darker spots and brush strokes are stain that simply didnt get absorbed into the wood and the wet rag buff trick should work like a charm for you. If I havent said it already,"The stand is coming along very nicely. I really like the color".
You should be able to see yourself in it with that "wet sand"approach.Wazzel":3ezi6nuv said:
Waz if you are using acrylic poly don't use the steel wool use only sand paper - the wool will rust under the acrylic poly as it is almost impossible to get it all off. Brush the stain on and wipe it down with a lint free rag after several minutes. It should be streak free.
Sand and putty it after the first coat of varnish/poly use 400 grit paper - be very careful around the edges because the least little pressure and you will be back to raw wood. The brush strokes could be from several things - if you are using acrylic it dries so fast sometimes you don't have a chance to level out the strokes. If this is the case add a little beer to the poly and it will act as an extender. If you are using oil or alkyd poly you may need to thin it with paint thinner and use a good quality china bristle brush not a brush with man made bristles.
Sand and putty it after the first coat of varnish/poly use 400 grit paper - be very careful around the edges because the least little pressure and you will be back to raw wood. The brush strokes could be from several things - if you are using acrylic it dries so fast sometimes you don't have a chance to level out the strokes. If this is the case add a little beer to the poly and it will act as an extender. If you are using oil or alkyd poly you may need to thin it with paint thinner and use a good quality china bristle brush not a brush with man made bristles.
Mark, quick questions, if you don't mind, as I'm getting ready to put a stand together for a 180G. The way you have the bottom of your stand together, do you think it would be a problem long term for the sump sitting on it? I figured your way would be getting the most out of the height inside the stand. I might be using some of your design, if you don't have a problem with that. And in case, would you do anything different? Maybe something you thought about afterwards? Thanks!
The way you have the bottom of your stand together, do you think it would be a problem long term for the sump sitting on it? I figured your way would be getting the most out of the height inside the stand. I might be using some of your design, if you don't have a problem with that. And in case, would you do anything different? Maybe something you thought about afterwards? Thanks!I do not see a problem with the way I have my sump. It sits on the flat parts of the stand. The weight of the sump is not on the plywood at all. If you have a narrow sump and the weight is just on the plywood that would be a different issue and cause problems in the long run.
As far as doing things differently, I think I would have done the back of the stand a little differently. I have a hard time getting to the wall plugs, but that is not something I need to access often. Other than this I am really happy with the stand.
As far as doing things differently, I think I would have done the back of the stand a little differently. I have a hard time getting to the wall plugs, but that is not something I need to access often. Other than this I am really happy with the stand.
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