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kimoyo

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solbby said:
Heretic! :lol: :shhh: :tongue1:
:lol2:, I know the irony, I got this big skimmer to only run it half the day, lol.

Its only an idea, because I'm going to be putting together a diy air silencer for the skimmer next week that I can put outside the window. I have the skimmer pulling 60 scfh (1700 l/h - it can easily do a lot more) of air and I want to see how high I can get my ph at a certain alk (low CO2) and how steady. With the AC during the summer or the windows closed during the winter there's a lot of CO2 buildup and suppression of my ph. So if this works well, I will probably want to run it 24/7 regardless.
 

loismustdie

chicks dig beckett men
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Brooklyn
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Paul, I'm a big Sequence fan. If you look through the threads of people looking to get external pumps, I always tell them Sequence(submersible, I like Ehiem). Spykes was here the other day and saw how the 2 of mine are doing. No noise complaints from him either. Great pumps, great choice. Good luck with it. I've got the Hammerhead pumping up 14 feet from my basement to my tank on the first floor. I still had to tee in other equipment (chiller, downdraft skimmer, frag tank) since the flow was too much for a 4 foot sump. (major micro bubble problem)
 

jhale

ReefsMagazine!
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G.V NYC
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kimoyo said:
:lol2:, I know the irony, I got this big skimmer to only run it half the day, lol.

Its only an idea, because I'm going to be putting together a diy air silencer for the skimmer next week that I can put outside the window

whoa, your going to feed city air direct to the skimmer? better have some kind of filter on the end of that ;)

I love my snapper sequence, I'd like to know what it's really pulling for power, they said it's 100watts, if it's lower that would be awesome.
 

techreef

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Montclair, NJ
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Just another voice here on the gel mats from McMaster. That stuff is AWESOME! Really lowers the vibration noise alot. I got the 1/4" and the 1/2" mats, and I don't think I'll even need the 1/2" mat because the 1/4" works so well. I can barely hear my Mag7 anymore. I need to disconnect my skimmer next and slide some mat underneath it. Can't wait to see how much more my dB levels can go! Thanks again Paul for the great pointer.
 

kimoyo

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techreef - Glad it worked for you as well!

Irisservice - I had another reefer over last week and he didn't even realize the hammerhead was running, and he had a hammerhead before. I have a few tips about getting a reef as quiet as possible, like getting rid of those durso's and making your drain bubble-free and silent. I haven't had time to do a diy thread but will this weekend.

Jhale - I gave up on feeding the air in that way because it put pressure on the becketts reducing their air intake. So I'm going to use limewater to help with CO2 now.
 

Irisservice

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Beechurst NY
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kimoyo said:
Irisservice - I had another reefer over last week and he didn't even realize the hammerhead was running, and he had a hammerhead before. I have a few tips about getting a reef as quiet as possible, like getting rid of those durso's and making your drain bubble-free and silent. I haven't had time to do a diy thread but will this weekend.
Tell me more about this bubble-free and silent drain... I'M currently seeting up a new tank....
 

techreef

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Would like to read how to eliminate bubbles from my drain. I don't get the "toilet flushing" noise, but i do have bubbles plopping out of my split drain in my sump. And they creat salt creep, besides being a little noisy.
 

kimoyo

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Its a pretty simple concept but hard to explain sometimes.

You have two drains.

Drain one runs at full siphon (no air). The air creates the bubbles and noise.

Drain two is a backup drain which doesn't always have water in it. It serves as a backup to drain one in case anything gets stucks in it, in order to avoid a flood.

No noise, no bubbles at all.

On drain one you put a gate valve. This allows you to match the return pumps input. The water in must = the water out, then no air is required in the drain.
 

PVsPlayhouse

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[FONT=Arial,sans-serif]How many GPH are you putting through that one drain? Im very intrested in this....

Just to comment on the shutting off of your pump. If salt water does not have any movement in the water for a certain amount of time you can run into problem. I would add a small powerhead to your sump if you do this just to keep the water moving.

If you are shutting off your pump for no heat gain that pump does not have any. If you look at the pump there is a space between the impeller and the motor. They make there pumps like this so no heat can get to the water. If im off base with why you want to shut down, then it is just a little info about the pump.
PV
[/FONT]
 

cali_reef

Fish and Coral Killer
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Paul, that will not work for people with stock tanks and a single drain. If anyone is thinking of using the return line (usually smaller than the drain) as the second drain, you are only asking for trouble when the main drain can't handle the flow for whatever reason.
 

kimoyo

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PVsPlayhouse said:
[FONT=Arial,sans-serif]How many GPH are you putting through that one drain? Im very intrested in this....[/FONT]
I don't have exact number but its a lot more than regular ratings because there is no air going down. I know my 1" piping can do well over 600gph, thats why you use the ball valve at the end to slow the water down. You could probably use 3/4" up there also.
cali_reef said:
Paul, that will not work for people with stock tanks and a single drain. If anyone is thinking of using the return line (usually smaller than the drain) as the second drain, you are only asking for trouble when the main drain can't handle the flow for whatever reason.
I would use the 3/4" as the drain and the 1" as the backup in that situation. 3/4" at siphon should be able to handle quite a bit of flow. But as long as you are not pumping more water than the 3/4" can handle your okay. You can do test runs, block drain 1 completely to make sure drain 2 can handle the entire load.

BTW drain 2 should always be fully open.
 

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