A
Anonymous
Guest
Because the bubbles carries the crap to the top. Bubbles are white. Crap is brown. Get it? 
Louey
Louey
Louey,
thanks... i saw the penductors... i thought you re-routed all the plumbing... but guess not... after all the beer i had this weekend. it hurts to imagine! 8O 8)
the column on the skimmer is nuts.... that distribution plate really works for that skimmer. have you noticed consistant skimmate production? or a quality difference from your becket skimmer?
thanks... i saw the penductors... i thought you re-routed all the plumbing... but guess not... after all the beer i had this weekend. it hurts to imagine! 8O 8)
the column on the skimmer is nuts.... that distribution plate really works for that skimmer. have you noticed consistant skimmate production? or a quality difference from your becket skimmer?
LA Lawman wrote:
Yes, it is very consistent. But like any skimmer, when there is nothing to skim, it doesn't skim. But the daily skimmate production at any given setting is always very consistent. The brown goo that needs to be cleaned off the neck and riser is very nasty stuff. Different from what the beckett produces. It has the consistency and look of chocolate pudding or baby poop. Nasty.
Louey
Yes, it is very consistent. But like any skimmer, when there is nothing to skim, it doesn't skim. But the daily skimmate production at any given setting is always very consistent. The brown goo that needs to be cleaned off the neck and riser is very nasty stuff. Different from what the beckett produces. It has the consistency and look of chocolate pudding or baby poop. Nasty.
Louey
People have been asking how the starboard looks. Well, here's a few pictures that show the coraline coverage. It's a lot more coraline than I expected considering the tank has only been up for 5 months.
It looks even better in person. Bottoms are tough to photograph.
Louey
It looks even better in person. Bottoms are tough to photograph.
Louey
Attachments
Hi Steve, and :welcome:
If by wiers you are reffering to the slots in the overflows, I will answer as follows:
I am pushing about 1400 GPH though the overflows and through the sump.
The slots in the overflows are about 1.5".
The water level above the bottom of the slots in about .5 - .75".
Does that answer your question, Steve?
Louey
If by wiers you are reffering to the slots in the overflows, I will answer as follows:
I am pushing about 1400 GPH though the overflows and through the sump.
The slots in the overflows are about 1.5".
The water level above the bottom of the slots in about .5 - .75".
Does that answer your question, Steve?
Louey
Louey,
the 1400gph is good, in "close ups of tank 004.jpg" page two of this thread, you show the top of the glass in one of your wier boxes, what is the length of the box ( front and two Sides )( which you have two boxes) in inches.
Sorry this is difficult to explain, I am building a tank with a weir which is 24" in length and am trying to determine how much water I can push over it ( comfortably), without raising the water height in the tank (too much).
Regards
Steve
the 1400gph is good, in "close ups of tank 004.jpg" page two of this thread, you show the top of the glass in one of your wier boxes, what is the length of the box ( front and two Sides )( which you have two boxes) in inches.
are the bottom of the slots level with the glass of the weir box?.
Sorry this is difficult to explain, I am building a tank with a weir which is 24" in length and am trying to determine how much water I can push over it ( comfortably), without raising the water height in the tank (too much).
Regards
Steve
Okay, that picture shows the overflow compartment without the overflow cover that has the slots I described above. Here is that pic again along with a pic with the overflow cover in place.
Hopefully my answer above will make more sense with this addtional pic.
Feel free to ask more questions.
Louey
Hopefully my answer above will make more sense with this addtional pic.
Feel free to ask more questions.
Louey
Attachments
To late to take pics of that now, but I can tell you that getting that door close to flush was a PITA.
First, I used a SS piano hinge that is 8' long. It will last forever, no doubt. The problems is that it is a fairly thick hinge, and being thick, it restricts the door from dropping down completely. The door wants to hang about 1/4" from being complete closed.
I wound up being some "catches" that are made to keep the cabinets in RV's closed tight. They work pretty darn good.
I tried some magnetic catches tha are availabe at HD, and they did not do the job at all.
Hope that helps. I won't have a chance to do pictures for at least a few days or more.
Louey
First, I used a SS piano hinge that is 8' long. It will last forever, no doubt. The problems is that it is a fairly thick hinge, and being thick, it restricts the door from dropping down completely. The door wants to hang about 1/4" from being complete closed.
I wound up being some "catches" that are made to keep the cabinets in RV's closed tight. They work pretty darn good.
I tried some magnetic catches tha are availabe at HD, and they did not do the job at all.
Hope that helps. I won't have a chance to do pictures for at least a few days or more.
Louey
Louey
That door over the tank opens out away from the fish room right?
It looks to me that it opens that way.
Anyway, if it does, and if in fact when the door is in its closed position the piano hinge is completely folded over on itself, then the reason it won't shut completely or gets hinge bound is because you used too large of screws. Up to 2" Piano hinge only uses a number 6 screw. That's pretty small.
Anyway, have your carpenter come set that right, it drives your loyal followers nuts that your door don't shut right....
:lol:
That door over the tank opens out away from the fish room right?
It looks to me that it opens that way.
Anyway, if it does, and if in fact when the door is in its closed position the piano hinge is completely folded over on itself, then the reason it won't shut completely or gets hinge bound is because you used too large of screws. Up to 2" Piano hinge only uses a number 6 screw. That's pretty small.
Anyway, have your carpenter come set that right, it drives your loyal followers nuts that your door don't shut right....
:lol:
Bryan,
I actually hired a carpenter that specializes in crown molding to build the wall and the flap door.
You are correct that it swings out.
The screws are not the problem. We used the right size screw and the screw holes were counter sunk.
The problem was really created by the corner bead that was used across the top and sides that is used to make a clean drywall finish. That corner bead keeps the hinge from opening perfectly.
Another problem is that the wall is not 100% plumb. There wasn't anything we could do about that in the limited amount of space on the sides of the tank.
Using the "RV" catches does the job though. You'd like it if you saw it in person.
Louey
I actually hired a carpenter that specializes in crown molding to build the wall and the flap door.
You are correct that it swings out.
The screws are not the problem. We used the right size screw and the screw holes were counter sunk.
The problem was really created by the corner bead that was used across the top and sides that is used to make a clean drywall finish. That corner bead keeps the hinge from opening perfectly.
Another problem is that the wall is not 100% plumb. There wasn't anything we could do about that in the limited amount of space on the sides of the tank.
Using the "RV" catches does the job though. You'd like it if you saw it in person.
Louey
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