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pwj1286

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This is it from the back. 1 and 3/4 inch drain from the bio balls. 1 and 1/2 from the left of the drain. The rest are returns that are 3/4 inch. This will have a Oceans Motions Squirt. The bio-balls are to make the drain silent.

suc503858wl.jpg



I took the center brace out, and reinforced it with alumninum rails. They are held together by 3 pop rivets per connection.


suc503861pa.jpg




Stand and hood. They are very tall. I need to sand them and stain them. The hood is sitting upside down.

suc503876ef.jpg



Look at all the doors! Doors on all sides but the back!

suc503903xl.jpg

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trido

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You forgot the bulkheads for the returns. :P Seriously though. The extra door on the stand will be soooo nice for routine maintanance. as well as initial set up.
 
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Sweet stand, do you have pics of it being built? You should start a thread in the DIY section if you do, we would love to see the process. I love the doors on the ends, you won't regret that at all.


You might want to check out a different method of keeping the drain quiet instead of using bioballs. You could stick a durso standpipe in there, or a stockman standpipe maybe.


Looking good...

When are you planning on setting that thing up?
 

bleedingthought

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knucklehead":2v4vfm7e said:
Oh, I like the aluminum brace idea too....

Yeah, I hate my center brace, especially when my flow starts to hit it and show it through. Salt creep on it is particularly annoying sometimes. :?

Great looking setup though! :D
 

pwj1286

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knucklehead":2qfv6nw7 said:
Sweet stand, do you have pics of it being built? You should start a thread in the DIY section if you do, we would love to see the process. I love the doors on the ends, you won't regret that at all.


You might want to check out a different method of keeping the drain quiet instead of using bioballs. You could stick a durso standpipe in there, or a stockman standpipe maybe.


Looking good...

When are you planning on setting that thing up?


The stand, I actually bought from the LFS I work at. Its an original piece, none others like it (that I know of) and I got it for a good price. It is white oak and needs to be sanded and worked on (rough spots, glue stains, ect). I yet to pick out the stain color.


The drain is still being debated on. At my LFS thats how they set drains up, so I was learning it their way. Most of their tanks (store show tanks) are set up the same way. Amazing acropora tanks that use no refugium to reduce nitrates, that have the same setup as I have. As of right now, it is tentetive to stay as the way it is.

Yeah, the rails are going to help me out. I am running my returns onto them and those are going to be hooked up to Wavy Sea's or Sea Swirls. I am leaning to Wavy Sea. I am going to insulate them from heat, as they will be sitting under 2-400 watt metal halides.

Setup date will depend on money and leftover time from school. I am going year round at UNO. I doing all my plumbing and wiring first. I will then do a tank transfer, replacing my existing tank and putting the new one in existing's spot. Which will be a chore.
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pwj1286

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SCWD's what do you think about them? I am plumping this tank up with PVC. Do you think these guys jam up? I dont want to have to clean these guys often.


I thinking about putting a Super Squirt in replacement of SQWD's. For my closed loop, I am also putting a Super Squirt.

Pricey? Would it be wroth not having the hassel?
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Anonymous

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I do not like the SCWD's. I had 3 on my old 110. They really cut the flow down alot. The squirt or super squirt would be better IMO.
 
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Anonymous

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I do not like the SCWD either. They cut back on flow and dont last IME. I like the Oceans Motions as well.
 
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Anonymous

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I would take out the bio-balls and replace them with live rock.

Peace,

Chip
 

pwj1286

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I am getting some plumbing done on the closed loop. Plumping the closed loop was a beast. I had to get a proffessional plumber/reefer friend to help me. I am using a Super Squirt Compact.

http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/prod ... eeeea6e92d

We were using tapered threaded 3/4' 90 elbows and straights. It was tough getting them to thread. Very tough. It was how the Squirt was threaded. Lucky the S. Squirt is waaayyyy harder than PVC. Went through 3 or 4 90's to get it right.

I think the Super Squirt is way easier to plumb.

http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/prod ... eeeea6e92d

My stand was problematic too. Plumbing around the molding and stuff. We had to knock out the back panel that was build into the stand. I dont care about it, however it would have been cool to plumb it through the panel. Would have been ultra silent operation.

I painted the back of the tank black with Rustoleum. The tank looks sweet now.

I will post pics later today or tonight.
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pwj1286

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dsc03076us7.jpg


That vertical ball valve is dry fitted for working purposes right now.

dsc03075ic8.jpg


That's the full shot now. I am working on putting some pumps in.

Any suggestions on pumps or anything else?
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trido

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I do quite a bit of plumbing with copper,ABS and PVC and have to say, "plumbing an ocean motions CL with hard pipe is definately not a quick easy job". Looks good. :wink:
 

Minh Nguyen

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You should have used flexible PVC, the type that use for Jacuzzi. You can easily connect Flexible PVC to regular PVS. Sorry I did not see this thread until now.
 

pwj1286

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You should have used flexible PVC, the type that use for Jacuzzi. You can easily connect Flexible PVC to regular PVS. Sorry I did not see this thread until now.

The guy who is helping me (really doing the most work, because I wanted a pro to do this job, I am really just still learning how to plumb clean and efficently, I could not tackle this project by myself) and I agree on putting flex PVC pipe to connect the pumps.

Other than that I do not know what you are meaning to say. Plumb the whole thing in flex PVC? Explain your thoughts to me.
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Flex PVC will cut down on the 90 degree bends, thus increasing flow.Plus it is easier to work with than rigid PVC(cuts can be a little off).
 

Minh Nguyen

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Using rigid PVC all your cut have to be exact or else there is problem. Flex PVC if you cut a little too long, doesn't matter. If you need to go around the corner, just bend it around the corner, no elbow.
Even a segment of flex PVC give you lots of flexibility and you will not need to be an expert to put it together.
Make sure you put large screener for the intake of the close loop or your fish or anemone will get stuck and kill.

Why not use an Tunzel for water movent and not use a close loop. Much better and cheaper to run without put much heat into the tank(from the pump)
 

pwj1286

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This system has been working pretty well for the guys that have been doing it for 6 years. Seen the results and it looks good. Thats what attracted me to this particular setup.

I do like the Tunze WaveBox and Streams. I was attracted to those as well, however, those setups are expensive. I am getting a good deal on this plumbing. Free. I just trade frags for with the guy. This LFS that I am doing it at is where I work, so I get products at cost.

I am thinking about putting a Tunze Wave box in the tank, as well as the closed loop S. Squirt Compact. I am also tossing around the idea for another S. Squirt Compact for the return. They want me to do SQWD's, but I feel that they are not dependable enough to plumb them PVC rather than vinal.

I can abandon the closed loop now. Put it to me honest: what do you guys think?
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