My list of the soon to be reef tank, your thoughts

[150reef]

I have had both saltwater (fish only) and freshwater tanks for periods in my life and now I would like to setup a 150 gallon (48X24X30) reef. I will like to detail most of the items I intend to buy and would like feedback and or suggestions if these items will be good. I hear alot of people say that we should research and get the right tools in the beginning and not make costly mistakes along the way, so here I am after countless hours of research and planning:
For tank I will be using 150 gallon perfecto RR, pine wood stand, glass canopies, megaflow #4 wet\dry with all flex plumbing, mag. drive (1200GPH) return pump, two hydro koralia powerheads, 8X54 watt T5 lighting, 100lbs base rock and 100 lbs live rock, 40 lbs live sand and 120 lbs sand, 300 watt heater, 150 seaclone skimmer (have this already).
Is the above equipment sufficent for makings of a reef. Thanks, Jack

 

[Chiefmcfuz]

Seaclown must go it won't do anything on my nano let alone a 150.

 

[150reef]

Seaclown must go it won't do anything on my nano let alone a 150.

What would you suggest for a skimmer for the 150 gallon and how does the setup sound to you?
I figured I would eventually need to upgrade the seaclone, for now it works good on my 56 gallon.
Thanks again
Jack

 

[Deanos]

You'll need more than a Mag drive & (2) Koralia powerheads to provide ample circulation in a tank with those dimensions. Also consider 2 smaller wattage heaters (redundancy) instead of 1 large one. Absolutely, positively, scrap the Seaclone idea. I really want to suggest throwing it away, but I'm sure there's an alternative use for it :scratch:

 

[Davidl919]

No mag runs too hot and uses too much wattage look at eheim pumps.

 

[charile1]

Dump the glass canopy and wet/dry.

 

[Breezp]

try and get ur hands on a mh with those t5's.

 

[TimberTDI]

Jack,

Your lighting really depend on the livestock you want to keep. At 30", the tank is pretty deep and T5's may not be able to penetrate all the way down.

Steven

 

[masterswimmer]

Good advice given so far.
The seaclown should not even be upgraded from. Upgrade implies that you'll start the tank with it. I wouldn't even hook it up.

The tank is a very deep tank. 30" is nice to look at, but you'll need a mask and snorkel to aquascape a tank that tall. Also, as Steven said, T5's will most likely be inadequate for a 30" tall. The recommended height is about 24" for T5's.

A wet/dry sump is fine for a fish only. In a reef tank you'll encounter problems with it.

I agree with the dual, redundant heaters and the Eheims over the Mags.

Honestly, it's a pleasure talking to someone who's doing their research BEFORE making purchases. You're going to save a boatload of money and time (redoing things) doing this research upfront.

swimmer

 

[LeslieS]

OK, here is the little bit of advice that I can give seeing how I am only 1 year in the hobby myself.

My tank is 30" deep, and yes, it is a pain, and yes I love how it looks anyway. 24" tanks can look pinched if you are not a master aquascaper.

My lights are ATO T-5's, but I do not have any SPS. My trachys love the amount of light that they get on the sandbed, but I need to keep my clam about 1/2 way up or he starts to fade.

You did not list an auto top off system, phosphate remover, calcium reactor, or carbon reactor in your list of equipment. These are not essentials, (or are essential depending on what you are keeping) but you may want them in the future. Make sure you leave room for extras in your set up and your stand.

Also, as you add things to your tank, you will be adding the rocks that they arrive on, and your coral will grow and take up space. Don't get crazy crowding your tank with rock.

The best pieces of advice that I was given were, "don't freak out over everything." That one was hard to follow And, go slow. That I did. It is paying off. People with 3 month old tanks had way more stuff than I did. My 120 looked pretty empty for the first nine months. My strategy was not to add anything to my tank if there was one single thing wrong with it.

Spot a little cyano - no adding.
phosphates high - no adding
blenny acting strange - no adding
stupidly purchased a starving trachyphylia - no adding until he was catching his own food.

This forced me to go very slowly. It gave me time to get to know each new inhabitant and begin to understand the rythms of my tank.

One MR member says that you should always look at someone's FTS before taking their advice. So, here is my FTS at 11 months. It still looks empty, but like I said slow and steady.....

 

[150reef]

Thanks for...

all the advice and awsome pictures, I dont mind going slow myself and I will definately take my time.Much appreciated, all the info will be well served. Honestly speaking, I really hate to go into anything blind and have been researching reef tanks for quite some time. I'm pretty handy, so I have decided to build my own sump\refugium out of a standard 30 gallon, with two socks which will be the first partition that will house the socks for mech. filtration, carbon in micron bag and an amonia pad in addition to a protien skimmer (away with the seaclone, but you guys\gals have still not given suggestions on a skimmer (not anything massive and preferably one that can be placed in sump how are the kent marine and redsea skimmers????), center partition will contain live rock, live sand or mud and saltwater plants,between third and second partition \baffle there will be a sponge (to trap detrius and bubbles, third partition will house the ehiem 898GPH return pump, and will use light over refugium (what lighting cycle should the light for the refugium be on, can it be on 24/7 with no ill-effects??????). Gonna go with the 8 X 54watt T5's for main tank and place corals\polyps in the appropriate water column of the 30" H tank. Mainly will like to do Zoa's,anemones, etc.. the not so intense light required corals\polyps and anemones, but then again depending where the corals are placed I have heard corals can thrive with only T5 lighting? Will more then likely go with (4) # 4 or #3 hydor Koralia powerheads, instead of some base rock and some live rock, I will probably look out for some local deals on 200 lbs of all live rock or take my time and get local live rock deals as thier available. Will use app. 120lbs sand and 40lbs live sand. Should I be using red sea reef salt or instant ocean reef crystals, or? I may also use no glass canopy at all and use open top with T5 lighting on legs (for gas exchange)? Are there any benefits to not using a glass caopy as opposed to open top or is it just personal preference and for easy accesibility? Any other thoughts are still appreciated. Thanks, Jack

 

[jhale]

don't forget to add a chiller to the list at least a 1/3hp for the 150.

salt, most people use IO, it's cheap and you can just buffer it up if needed.

glass top is not that great, it will need to be cleaned all the time.

 

[drej424]

I have a 150 RR that's 30" deep and I have a lot of trouble with the depth. I'm not that tall, so if something falls to the bottom of the tank, I have to use tongs (which are really awkward). I've been using my old skimmer - a Coralife SS 125. It's definitely not enough and I ordered an ASM-G3.
One of my nephews is 6'4" and he loves playing around with my tank. The depth doesn't bother him one bit. Good luck with yours!

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

30" is definately good to look at but hard to work with.

Put a 8" super DSb and then your water is only 22" height :biglaugh:


Sigh.....recently I have to work with a 36" tall tank, literally, I rather want to swim in there.

 

[Awibrandy]

Here is what my 155 Bow Front open top with custom built canopy (I have fish that jump so a canopy is essential in my case)is equipped with:
Turboflotor Multi 1000 powered by a Oceanrunner PH2500 pump Protein Skimmer
30g sump [had chaeto in it, it wasn't looking so good so I dumped it] Gonna get some more to replace it ASAP.
10g ATO
Aquamedic dosing pump for Calcium & ALK
(2)Two Little Fish reactors 1 for phosar, 1 for carbon
(2) 150 heaters
Micro socks
2 return pumps, 1 eheim 1260 & Iwaki WMD 40RLT.{I like the idea of a back up pump just incase the unimaginable happens(like a starfish getting sucked into the iwaki last week)}
Lighting - Hamilton Hood (3)XM 175 Watt MH along with (2)60" VHO Actinics 1super actinic, 1 white actinic /2- 4" IceCap fans pulling the hot air out of the hood.
Custom canopy w/2-4" IceCap fans blowing across the top of the tank.
Ranco Temp. controller controlling 3 of the fans in hood & canopy. Set to turn fans on when ever the temp goes above 77 degrees.
Clip on Fan in the sump area blowing 24/7
150 lbs of ESV fine grain sand.
Approx. 200lbs L/R
24 fish - mostly small ones. 3 tangs
Mixed corals lps, leathers, softies, zoas, shrooms, blastos
a couple of sps(caps & patchy)
clams 4 croceas 1 baby maxima

Glass top is not recommended for one of several reasons they keep the heat in the tank which you do not want in the summer. Also, my tank is 24" I'm not that short, and any deeper I'd be in trouble. Good luck with that 30" depth, unless of course you are 6'4" or better :lol2:.
You can keep the light in the sump on 24/7 it won't hurt anything but your electric bill :lol2:. I do, I also keep the fan going 24/7 late spring through fall.

Pic 1 w/flash, Pic 2 no flash. Excuse the net in the tank I was trying to catch a fish.:redface:

 

[150reef]

Thanks Mima, all the details you provided is what Im looking for. I will scrap the glass canopy. Just want to say that your tank is beautiful!!!

Hows that turbofloater working for you? I guess the only detail that I cant come to grips with is what skimmer to go with. I will like to get one that could fit under cabinet in sump and will do a great job.

Thanks again,
Jack

 

[Awibrandy]

Thanks Mima, all the details you provided is what Im looking for. I will scrap the glass canopy. Just want to say that your tank is beautiful!!!

Hows that turbofloater working for you? I guess the only detail that I cant come to grips with is what skimmer to go with. I will like to get one that could fit under cabinet in sump and will do a great job.

Thanks again,
Jack

Turbo has been with me for the past 6 years. Love this skimmer I've used it as a hang on, out of sump, and now it's in the sump. Used one on my 75g., on my old 120, and now it's the skimmer on the 155g. Perhaps it works for me because I don't mind doing weekly w/c. I change about 30g per week with fresh water. But I have a very large bioload, and I don't believe in letting my animals go hungry.
If there is any way I can help just let me know. :flower:

Awilda

 

[150reef]

Thanks will take a look at that floater, was also looking at the ASM and MR1?

Jack

 

[LeslieS]

don't forget to add a chiller to the list at least a 1/3hp for the 150.

Definitely!!! I would put this on my essentials list. It is worth the peace of mind.

Sigh.....recently I have to work with a 36" tall tank, literally, I rather want to swim in there.

LOL, you need a snorkel. I try to do my moving around when I am doing a water change. Take out water, move, clean, etc...add water back. Last week I was a little absorbed in what I was doing and ended up with salt water soaked hair!. I can actually reach the bottom with all the water in the tank. I'm only 5' 6" so I must be part :fight2: Also, it helps that I can acess my tank from both sides so I don't have to stretch across the entire tank when I need to reach the bottom.

 

[mshur]

JAck,
Get a MR-2 with dual injectors powered with Iwaki pump and you will be pretty much set with your skimmer. I use to have 30" deep tank , looks very nice but it really hard to aquascape and work with it. Plus ,if you going to have SPS corals you will need at least 250w bulbs. I use to have 400w .
what type of livestock your are planning tokeep?

mike