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Unless your tank has X-TREEM actinic or blue LED supplementation, tubbs blues are really disappointing.

It could be a number of things, including coral or urchin spawn or something. Many of the critters in our tanks go through freakish metamorphoses after they hatch. I'm guessing that this is what they are; you had a spawning event in the tank and now there're a bunch of young ... whatevers ...

I'd say just put in two, particularly if you're interested in having a lot of LPS-type corals. More than that gets annoying 'cause the little SOBs steal food from corals.

Well, the thing is, it produces much less IR radiation focused into the tank. With MHs this 'cooks' the tank and can add significantly to the temperature of the water. T5s mostly add heat with convection by heating up the air around them; this barely adds heat to the tank at all if the hood is...

Chaeto doesn't root, so it doesn't care about the substrate. It's a clumpy ball of curly algal strands. It's a lot less attractive-looking than caulerpa, but a lot more convenient. ;) If you were lighting your fuge 24/7 with caulerpa, don't do that with chaeto; it needs a dark period.

I've used a bunch of things -- any thickened cyanoacrylate gel will work. However, I have to say that IC-Gel is the best thing in the most convenient package that I've ever used for superglue. Loctite superglue gel is basically the same thing, and available at any hardware store, but more...

My tank's in my bedroom. It's where my computer is, so I spend a lot of time there. Mostly the fish all run up to the front when they notice me moving around, hoping to get fed.

Just keep the 20 as a QT/treatment tank, 'cause you're going to need one eventually, anyway. You can always pick up another 20 here if you watch the forums; people're always getting rid of those things free/cheap. That said, there are polymer sponges that remove metal ions from the water. You...

Some people keep their sg low to prevent ich -- but they don't actually keep it anywhere close enough to low enough to do so. There's no reason to use anything but the standard NSW sg of 1.024 to 1.026.

Does anyone have a working phone number for aqua hut? The one I can find online seems to be attached to a fax.

Yeah. I was figuring that I'd get two, stick 'em in my sump or maybe a breeder box until they lay eggs, and then introduce the lot of 'em to the tank. Kind of the way you do it with Berghias for aptasia.

There are other, more exotic methods that you could investigate, too. For example, if you've got a well on your property, you could run a closed-loop heat exchanger. I've heard of people making modified swamp coolers to cool their tanks, too. One good thing is that if you do get a heat...

Some pistol shrimp definitely can be a danger to other shrimp -- heck, I've heard of them taking out mantis shrimp in a fight. If you get a small one paired with a small goby, you most likely won't have any problems. If you pick up a random pistol shrimp, or one that gets large, then you may...

NO real way to give an ID without microscopic inspection, but you're probably just seeing tiny benthic worms and the tiny larvae of worms already in your tank. I've also seen some of the more active, small flatworms swim sort of like you described -- again, nothign to worry about.

Since it's a single macroparasite, carefully yanking the parasite off with a pair of tweezers will likely do the job.

I use a full rack of T5s on my tank with no problems. If you want more light, you could always run two or more of them overpowered with an Icecap 660 or something similar. You're probably not going to be able to get away without using a chiller, but properly ventilated T5s should help reduce...

Well, the people at the LFS didn't tell me it eats Bryopsis; there're quite a few online sources, however, which state that they do. TBH, that was a relatively minor consideration; I mostly just wanted it 'cause I've always wanted one, and, since I didn't see anything online about them doing...

No, I can definitely blame the urchin. :) I watched it pass over a piece of purple Monti cap and leave a stripped, white skeleton in its passing. And the other montipora looked like someone had rasped off about a quarter inch of skeleton with a rough file. Nudis just strip the flesh.

Well, I did a decent amount of research online and I didn't see anything out there saying that they'd eat corals. The only cautions I saw were regarding their spines and their tendency to knock frags over, both things I can live with or manage. *shrugs*

All I can say is: thank god this tank was pretty much all populated with frags from the swap, and all of my monti frags were relatively cheap, so the financial loss was less than it could've been. On the other hand, I'm -really- gonna be annoyed if the Montipora samerensis I bought doesn't pull...