ravi197699

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Thank you for your input masterswimmer.. Vio's point is the pressure on slab by side supports and legs are too close to the edge of the slab built for this stand and by adding frame to the bottom will divide the weight..Please suggest your point of view...
 

ravi197699

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stand

How thick is the concrete slab? Is this the concrete floor in your basement? Did you pour the slab?

Ok my house is built over concrete slab and I don't have basement so it is ground level and then I built another slab over the existing (original slab) and made sure that it is leveled and I have used metal mesh in the new raised slab as rebar to prevent from cracking. I hope I answered your question..
 

masterswimmer

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I don't know why you needed to pour a slab on top of the slab, however, it seems like uber overkill. Nevertheless, there should be zero reason to have to put horizontal supports on the existing T-Slot frame you built.

The portion of the stand that is going to be 'buried' in the wall will provide all the structural rigidity you'll need to prevent the stand from racking.

Even if you add the 'floor frame' you will not be distributing the weight beyond the six points of contact your stand currently has.

There is no reason to waste the money or time installing the floor frame. It will not do anything to improve what you've already done.
 

ravi197699

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You are correct front of the tank will have three legs as well to support the portion that is in between 4" x 4" posts and this will prevent front racking sideways and i will be adding horizontal support between the legs that are in the middle.. Based on your experience in this hobby do you think that side legs are too close to the edge of the new platform. if it is then will cause the edge to give up?
 

masterswimmer

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My experience in the hobby is secondary to my experience as a General Contractor. Like I said, I don't know why you raised the concrete to begin with. I would have left it on the original concrete slab. However, since you did raise it, I would let it cure for at least a couple of weeks before putting the load of your tank on it. If you mixed the pour to a minimum of 3000 psi (standard rating for a home slab) and used rebar like you said, you should be fine.

Keep in mind, the way a home is built from the ground up starts with the footings below the frost line. Then you either pour or form your foundation walls. The sill plate sits on top of the foundation wall. This sill plate is typically a 2"x6" pressure treated board that runs the perimeter of the foundation wall. The entire house structure sits on that sill plate. The sill plate is basically the same width (6") as your foundation wall (see pic). The sill plate carries the entire weight of the home and sits on the concrete foundation wall right at the edge. No different than your setup.

Bottom line, again, I see no reason your design wouldn't work.
 

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vio

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Bottom frame will not increase structural integrity at all. How many millions of metal framed aquarium stands have successfully been used for decades that have only four points of contact do you need to confirm this?

Not sure, if we are in the same page, also not sure if you take a look of this pic. Is very close to the edge. We now the concrete need list 28 days to cure, you refer to totally dif. story.
 

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masterswimmer

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Vio, I addressed your concern with this post.

My experience in the hobby is secondary to my experience as a General Contractor. Like I said, I don't know why you raised the concrete to begin with. I would have left it on the original concrete slab. However, since you did raise it, I would let it cure for at least a couple of weeks before putting the load of your tank on it. If you mixed the pour to a minimum of 3000 psi (standard rating for a home slab) and used rebar like you said, you should be fine.

Keep in mind, the way a home is built from the ground up starts with the footings below the frost line. Then you either pour or form your foundation walls. The sill plate sits on top of the foundation wall. This sill plate is typically a 2"x6" pressure treated board that runs the perimeter of the foundation wall. The entire house structure sits on that sill plate. The sill plate is basically the same width (6") as your foundation wall (see pic). The sill plate carries the entire weight of the home and sits on the concrete foundation wall right at the edge. No different than your setup.

Bottom line, again, I see no reason your design wouldn't work.
 

vio

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The only reason i suggest bottom frame is because in the middle of the concrete slab is some imperfection , looks like crack, so if is crack were is NO pressure , there is a chance to crack right were the legs are (close to edges). I hope i am wrong about pic.

Thank You.
 
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ravi197699

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Vio that is not crack, it is fiber glass resin that i was spreading and on that spot it is little extra, I want to seal the concrete from saltwater, so I used three coats of marine resin to seal there is no crack and this slab has been there from 4 weeks before i put the stand on the slab...
 

ravi197699

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Thanks edd you are 100% correct on your assumption, they are coming off and i will use metal shims to level the stand, then i will coat the shims with rubberized paint so they wont rust..
 

vio

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Vio that is not crack, it is fiber glass resin that i was spreading and on that spot it is little extra, I want to seal the concrete from saltwater, so I used three coats of marine resin to seal there is no crack and this slab has been there from 4 weeks before i put the stand on the slab...

Super, i feel better now.
 

ravi197699

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Thanks you Reef Lobster for your suggestion, But this stand is anodized aluminum which is safer in saltwater applications, I have already coated the steel hardware with rubber spray just to have piece of mind...
 

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