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polcat

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Yep, I'll fully test and document the tap water and mixed SW. I live in Peoria AZ and the water here is not the best. We have high KH and ph around 8. Phosphates of .5 are why I run ro/di on my other tank. So step one will be "the initial water".

If I understand correctly the plant life will take care of the PO4. I'm also curious how the oyster shells will effect calc. With no WC's and only top off with tap water, step 2 will be ongoing "water quality"

Can't think too far past that right now, trying to get the equipment set up per Bob's suggestion. I bought some more lights so I have the 8wpg he recommends. Getting 5x flow is no problem but I want the fuge and tank balanced and since it needs to filter through oyster shells I'm planning the plumbing today.
 
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Anonymous

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polcat":3lfc4rvf said:
This is going to be interesting, haven't even added water yet and we have a good debate going. I bought a 10g last night so the nano will be a 7g fuge and 10g display. I have some play sand (not southdown) about 10 lbs of LR and 20 lbs of base. Per Bob I will fill with tap water after running for one minute from the cold water faucet. Wait one day and add the rock.

Bob, on a side, just so you know I'm not doing this to prove anything. I just want to learn and document for others what works or doesn't. If tap water works I already learned something :)

good learning is what this is all about. 7g fuge with 10g display should be fine. I presume you will mix the salt right away and add the macros to the fuge also.

I would feel better if you would get the macros expanding before adding the live rock. Just to make sure the refugium plant life is thriving. And the fuge should basically appear to be packed with plants.

Before adding live rock to the display you could also not light up the display area. Kinda to encourage the refugium to grow plant life and not the display.

Keep us posted.

I am here to learn also.
 
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Anonymous

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LordNikon":ywxs3j31 said:
, so adding freshly collected tap water will add new chlorine nonetheless..

Yep. And if the tap has Chloramine it can really do some damage.
 
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Anonymous

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polcat":4wblbsmf said:
Yep, I'll fully test and document the tap water and mixed SW. I live in Peoria AZ and the water here is not the best. We have high KH and ph around 8. Phosphates of .5 are why I run ro/di on my other tank. So step one will be "the initial water".

If I understand correctly the plant life will take care of the PO4.
As long as they are growing yes. When the plant life becomes nitrogen limited the phosphates can rise resulting in a cyano bloom. Just a good time to harvest some plant life and get them growing faster.
I'm also curious how the oyster shells will effect calc.
Hopefully they will just buffer it. If the calcium load is low you may not notice much. I also suspect the nightly ph drop is also key. But your test should be interesting.
With no WC's and only top off with tap water, step 2 will be ongoing "water quality"

Can't think too far past that right now, trying to get the equipment set up per Bob's suggestion. I bought some more lights so I have the 8wpg he recommends. Getting 5x flow is no problem but I want the fuge and tank balanced and since it needs to filter through oyster shells I'm planning the plumbing today.

You are correct that balancing the fuge and display is key. But it should be easy to obtain. I have had feedback where display lighting was upgraded and display hair took off. But with increased fuge lighting the balance was restored. Daaaaa i guess the plant life grows where the lighting is :lol:
 

polcat

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Got it Bob. I'll just add sand and water, get the fuge going good then start on the display. Thanks for the help. One quick one, do I need to feed the plants anything or just keep them under the lights?
 
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Anonymous

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polcat":3ab6kxtl said:
Got it Bob. I'll just add sand and water, get the fuge going good then start on the display. Thanks for the help. One quick one, do I need to feed the plants anything or just keep them under the lights?

At first let them "eat" the tap water. should be enough.
 
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Anonymous

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Polcat":21xmd5li said:
I live in Peoria AZ a
Holy crap...I lived there until 97..my parents still live there off Between Bell Rd and Union Hills...Did you go to HS there?
 
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Anonymous

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LordNikon":2foz78vl said:
Polcat":2foz78vl said:
I live in Peoria AZ a
Holy crap...I lived there until 97..my parents still live there off Between Bell Rd and Union Hills...Did you go to HS there?


Wow you're older then 97!!!!!!!!

Gee and i though I was old





















8O :lol: :lol :lol: :lol:
 
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Anonymous

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AD 1997..not hardly old unless you consider 26 to be old :?
:wink:
 

polcat

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LordNikon":veakzsom said:
AD 1997..not hardly old unless you consider 26 to be old :?
:wink:

I have lived here since AD 1963, and yes I consider myself old. I have children older than you LordNikon :lol: I did go to HS here, Moon Valley high class of AD 1972.

I'm still young to reefin' though :?

Mike
 
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Anonymous

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bradl.":3ufptgaz said:
Im curious as to the lighting schedule of the refugium.24/7 or reverse cycle?

I think it is amazing those are the only options even considered :lol:

My small external sump/refug is 24/7. Nitrates did not go to 0 with that.

Obviously my in tank refug is the same as display period. Nitrates went to 0 with it.

Ph just before lights out is 8.4+ and has been for about 2 years. The one time I measured ph just before lights on it was 7.8 or so. Meanwhile calcium is at 400ppm alk at 2 meg/l.
 
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Anonymous

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I think a few more people should be willing to put Bob's method to the test and then compare and see how things work.
 
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Anonymous

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Maybe Bob should put Bob's method to the test. Whadayasay Bob? Ready to crank up that new 20 gallon tank of yours?
 
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Anonymous

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I will be fireing up my 10g on the floor of my garadge. But that would hardly be competive.

Am testing out a new surge/filter device.
 

RobertoVespucci

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>.>

Fwiw, if I can get everything drilled, sealed, and full of water I'm going to jump in the nano build off. It's been my plan for a couple weeks 'to get plant life thriving' before I add any animals. I will however skim and use DI water.

<.<
 
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Anonymous

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RobertoVespucci":16kx50g3 said:
>.>

Fwiw, if I can get everything drilled, sealed, and full of water I'm going to jump in the nano build off. It's been my plan for a couple weeks 'to get plant life thriving' before I add any animals. I will however skim and use DI water.

<.<

the you should have a very sucessful system as well. As long as the plants are in charge, skimming and processed water are secondary. The main effect should be the plant life just grows slower is all. And after the bioload has built up then the processed water is almost totally irrelevant. IMO of course. :lol:
 

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