A
Anonymous
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Since you keep bringing it up, bob here's the thread at RC from Dr. Holmes-Farley's forum from April 2004:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showt ... 0carbonate
I know you can't click on it so here is your question:
Here is his response:
The bolded emphasis in his quote is mine. Bob, since you have access now to Dr. Holmes-Farleys entire quote in full context including where he states that the amount of cc dissolved in your patent fashion is inadequate for a reef tank in the long run, are you still going to continue to make your usual assertions?
Also, since this thread is from a year ago almost exactly I wonder how you can claim that your method assures long term sucess since on subsequent posts on several boards you mention problems such as loosing livestock and coral?
As an aside, I also found elsewhere on RC where you posted with regard to why you don't use R/O D/I water is that, in your opinion, although the water quality would be better that it wasn't the cost involved with the unit, but that it takes far too long to get enough water to do water changes :lol:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showt ... 0carbonate
I know you can't click on it so here is your question:
Originally posted by beaslbob
Randy:
My system is "old school". by that I mean, playsand with crushed coral on top, non limestone base rock, in tank refug with caulpera and brillow pad, macros in display, and an external sump/refug. Tank is standard 55g with 2- 2 tube 4' shop lights on the back glass for the in tank refug and 2-2 tube shop lights on top. top lights have 2 actinic and 2 5600k 3500 lumen tubes. Livestock is a yellow tang, royal gramma, coral beauty, 2 percs, host anemone, yellow gobie, 10 or so turbos, ~5-10 hermits, green brittle starfish, open brain, green star and various buttons.
I also have another tank for macro algae culture. it is a 20g and used for macro algae culture.
Both tank evaporate about the percentage per day and both are topped off with tap water. No water changes are done.
After some time both tanks' calcium was down to the 250-300 ppm level. (using a red sea test kit with 50ppm sensitivity, later i got a more sensitive test kit)
I got a more accurate (sensitive) kit for cal and added crushed oyster shells to my diy filter box. that filter box passes all the water through the shells. the filter box is in the external sump/refug. It is powered by a mag5 with a pump height of about 4-5 feet.
I understand low ph is needed for the calcium reactors to work. My ph just before lights on is now about 7.8 and just before lights out is 8.4 or higher. (aquarium pharmi.... test kit)
My question simply is: is possible the crushed oyster shells provided calcium to the system? (Sure seems so) Over many weeks, calcium has slowly risen and stayed at ~400ppm in the 55g but remained at 250-300 in the 20g.
Obvously there is a very low calcium load in the 55g. And both tanks have virtually no calcium sources. both tanks use play sand for instance.
thanks in advance.
Here is his response:
Originally posted by Randy Holmes-Farley
Calcium carbonate will dissolve as the pH is lowered to the mid 7's and lower, and low pH often exists in sand beds where the oxidiation of buried organics can reduce the pH. That is not usually enough to sustain a reef aquarium, but if the demand is low, of the amount of organics entering the sand is high, or both, perhaps it can for a while.
Also, low alkalinity will encourage CaCO3 to dissolve. Have you measured the alkalinity in both aquaria?
Finally, there may be an initial stage where magnesium (from the salt mix) is replacing calcium in the surface regions of the substrate, and that may temporarily raise claicum.
The bolded emphasis in his quote is mine. Bob, since you have access now to Dr. Holmes-Farleys entire quote in full context including where he states that the amount of cc dissolved in your patent fashion is inadequate for a reef tank in the long run, are you still going to continue to make your usual assertions?
Also, since this thread is from a year ago almost exactly I wonder how you can claim that your method assures long term sucess since on subsequent posts on several boards you mention problems such as loosing livestock and coral?
As an aside, I also found elsewhere on RC where you posted with regard to why you don't use R/O D/I water is that, in your opinion, although the water quality would be better that it wasn't the cost involved with the unit, but that it takes far too long to get enough water to do water changes :lol: