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Anonymous

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Just lock the thread before it turns into an 18 page argument on Macros :roll: I sympathize with all the members helping out with the HA problem(as there seems to be one that argues the opposite just to argue)..I too have run into this problem in the last few months...Last night i had to pull several rocks out to scrub them..and that aint gonna help all that much since there is still plenty of rock that has it on..I dont want to cloud the water too much making unstable conditions for my clam and SPS...its frustrating..
 
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Would a filter sock of some sort benefit here with removing detritus? Probalby would become too clogged fast.

I am now thinking of trying to cook some of the LR and replace half of the LR.

This wat the new LR could re-seed the old LR ahd hopefully get balanced.

What are actual good detritus eaters? I am debating on the fact of staying bare bottom or addign some sand back in. Big problem would be I will be adding a Tunze Stream to this tank shortly (I hope).
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ak47 strain
 
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Anonymous

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Serpent/brittle stars might help you out. Kinda cool to watch too.

~wings~
 

Ben1

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Yeah get one of those acrylic filter sock holders and a filtersock on your sump. Blast your rocks with a powerhead or turkey baster and let it all collect in the sock. Then rinse it very well, this would benifit the system greatly by getting rid of the crap before it breaks down adding to the nutrients in the water.

I love ceriths, they are for me one of the longest lasting snails. Do you find lots of empty shells or do the snails just drop dead? You may have something eatting the snails you add? I just got a group order set up with people from PARC and got ceriths for .20 and astreas for .30. If you can get together with some local reefers and get a decent order going http://rockyshores.saltyzoo.com/price/ can be a very cheap way to restock your crew.
 
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Roberto":2xzpsasa said:
I should couch that as a working theory that I'm looking for an easy/cheap way test.
I volunteer PLB's tank first :twisted:
 

HClH2OFish

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Rob, I really feel for you. I had some back problems and wasn't able to do proper WC's for a while...only topoffs (RO/DI)

You can see the differences here:

http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=778046#778046


My algae isn't all over like yours, mainly darker stuff in the high current of my PH. Have lighter 'grayish' hair on the rocks. I've pulled mats off the sand twice now (ran a fork through the upper surface and pulled out a ton of HA)

Since adding my BakPak, it's reduced a bit, but is still there so I'm now working on getting more carbon running with some Rowaphos in my Tetratec 150.

Good luck..it's highly frustrating, but stick with it! The eventual rewards are worthwhile IMHO.
 

LA-Lawman

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i am apoligizing now for spelling and grammar, I have been working for 5days and am running on vapor. but i am here to help. :)

this might sound like a newbie type thing.

1) how long is your photo period?
2) what lights do you use and how old are they?

this could be a factor.

hair algae is a pain because it is not only photosynthetic, it uses detritus as food. When i remove hair algae, I siphon all the rock around the spot i plucked and am surprised everytime with the amount of crap i pull out.

when i go thru new tank setups and have a gnarly hair algae bloom. I shut the light off for 2 days before I pluck and siphon the algae. I also reduce my feeding by half, I pluck the algae, and siphon while doing the water change. I do it this way in case i free up some garbage while siphoning i can pull it from the water column. then I ease the photoperiod back up over a weeks time watching to see if I start another bloom.

The PO4 idea is important. I understand that there is phosphates that u can't remove because they are tied up in living things. When bacteria, fish, rock, corals and other goodies kick the bucket it releases the bonded up phosphate into the water. there will always be phosphate around. I run phosban in a reactor all the time and it seems to keep things in check.


I dunno if i helped or not. these are the things i usually think about :)
 
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The lights are 4 months old now.

VHO actinics 10 hrs
250W MH 8 hours

Once I get the results of the water test I will decide on what to do. If the water is good or if there is a good enough RO/DI or other system that I need to get I will try and cook some of the LR and see what happens. I dont have the $$ for new LR and if I need another water filter that will be more money as well.
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Well the results are in

PH 7.0
TDS 349

Both are within regulatory specs.

Now is the decision - forget the reef idea or find out how to get better water. I think I am leaning towards dumping the tank.

New LR will result in the same thing in a year from now.
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Rob_Reef_Keeper":19u9olp3 said:
Well the results are in

PH 7.0
TDS 349

Both are within regulatory specs.

Now is the decision - forget the reef idea or find out how to get better water. I think I am leaning towards dumping the tank.

New LR will result in the same thing in a year from now.

Or you can spend $20 and start a hob or in tank refugia.

and have fish that live, with little to no nusiance algaes regradless of tds of the input water.

You already have the experience of the other methods. so the choice is yours.
 

Ben1

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Those results are close to my tap water. After RO/DI/DI your water should be very clean.

I still say stay hard on the GFO and GAC in small amounts changed frequently and add an ozonator with orp controller to the skimmer.

I don't blame you for wanting to dump it though. Lots of time, money and effort go into these things and when the rewards arnt there it can be very frustraing.
 

sediener

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I don't think a new RO/DI system would hel you any more than getting a higher rejection 75GPD membrane. You said previously that you are only getting 90% or so rejection... a 98-99% rejection membrane could make a big difference in your output water quality.

- steve
 

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