next year's tank

[jhale]

My sump doesn't flood. Done properly there should be no worries of a flooded sump. IMO it's an easy project.

I disagree Russ. Mine has flooded. If you live above people it's a whole other worry than living in a house :happysad:
I'll do anything to prevent a leak/flood, an all in one sump/tank is a good idea imo.

 

[jhale]

Cali, when you saw the peltec chiller would you say is was much less heat than a normal chiller. that was my understanding. It might get warm, but it's not blasting out hot air like a freon chiller.

 

[masterswimmer]

I disagree Russ. Mine has flooded. If you live above people it's a whole other worry than living in a house :happysad:
I'll do anything to prevent a leak/flood, an all in one sump/tank is a good idea imo.

'Splain to me Loooocy. Why would a flood be different in my home than one in an apartment? No leak is no leak. Maybe yours flooded because of design issues?

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

'Splain to me Loooocy. Why would a flood be different in my home than one in an apartment? No leak is no leak. Maybe yours flooded because of design issues?

When there is a flood in your own house, you eat up the cost to the damage of your own house. If you have a flood above someone, you eat up the damage to your apt plus the damage to the people below plus the agony of people screaming.:argue:

Flood does not just come from design issue. A lot of the times, they are accidents that I think the more pipes, the more EQ, the more "things" coming from one way to another will likely to attract more accidents. You know, Lesile may land her hand on a soft PVC pipe and break it when she try to regain her posture from kneeling down. J/K J/K

 

[masterswimmer]

When there is a flood in your own house, you eat up the cost to the damgae of your own house. If you have aflood above someone, you eat up the damge to your apt plus the damge to the people below plus the agony of people screaming.:argue:

Explain that to my wife who would want as much of a flood as your downstairs neighbor.

 

[jhale]

if you flood your own house you generally would not evict yourself.
apartment living is a worry on a different level :theyareon
mine was not by design, but by mistake. still taking as much plumbing out of the equation is the safest precaution.

 

[kimoyo]

Hey LeslieS,
Nice diagrams! What are you using? I was actually thinking about doing something similar for my next tank. Have you thought about in-tank flow? I'm probably not going to use any but if your going with powerheads you could hide them with a small compartment behind the tank. Your overflow could be the top 5" and then the bottom could be the powerhead section. You could even build waveboxes in there.

The wall is a loat bearing wall. The top area of the cabinet (the canopy)will be hung like cupboards. I can't tell exactly how much the chiller full of water weighs, but I can lift it OK so probably less than 50lbs. If everything is connected to the studs with the proper bolts, would that be OK? Would there be anyway to minimize vibration while still allowing for air circulation?
Also, I forgot to put my ATO in the plan so that would either have to go next to the chiller on the shelf adding additional weight or have its own container in the equipment overflow.

Why don't you add the ato to the entire 6' tank.
.
For the chiller I'm sure mcmaster has something strong enough to hold the chiller but isolate it. Here's a post I made last year.

I've used silicone for pump vibration isolation in experiments. I got the stuff for my pump at mcmaster-carr. I can't link directly to it but you got to www.mcmaster.com and search for '1782T34' which is the Ultra-Elastic Clear Gel Rubber, 1/4" Thick, 12" X 12". I also got the 1/2" thick piece and stacked them on top of the plywood. Total they cost me $40 but I haven't found anything else that comes close to stopping the vibrations from going to the plywood. You could feel the plywood next to the gel and not feel any vibrations. I'm going to post pictures eventually.

I actually put this stuff under my 1/3 hp chiller to test it, the chiller did smash it down too much but it did help with vibrations.

take a look at the peltech chillers/heaters they generate no heat. a bit more expensive but worth it if you live in an apartment.
http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=40_43_205

J, that would defeat energy conservation, I know they say they're high tech but they aint that hi-tech.

Russ, like J said, you have no idea, nooo idea how much apartment renters in the city with tanks worry about flooding. Especially if you don't have concrete floors and your in a rent controlled apartment. Flood takes on a different level. That and the tank falling thru the floor, lol.

 

[LeslieS]

Looks like some of us have been forgetful that Lesile has confessed that she may(will?) maintain her tank after couple drinks. HAHAHA:biggrin::shhh:

LOL! unfortunately my tank judgement is not so good after a few beers!

If you have enough room in the MEGA overflow section, consider putting the ATO reservoir in there as well.

This is a good option. I have to measure everything that needs to go in that compartment to make sure it will fit. I may have to resize the other areas if it does not.

6 x 39W all blue light seems dim for a 30 inch height and 48" length unless you mean no corals there.

Right now I have 2 blue plus and 6 aquablue specials (I think they are 10k). This is what I plan to keep as it has been working so far, but the plan is flexibly enough that I can switch to MH if I decide to do more sps.

Cali, when you saw the peltec chiller would you say is was much less heat than a normal chiller. that was my understanding. It might get warm, but it's not blasting out hot air like a freon chiller.

Can someone else get one of these so that I can come over and see if I like it?

For the chiller I'm sure mcmaster has something strong enough to hold the chiller but isolate it. Here's a post I made last year.

Paul, that is a great idea. I think it will also help cut the noise. I need some of those right now!!!!

What should I make the "skin" of the cabinet out of? I want it to look like my walls which are matte white painted dry wall, but I think that would be too heavy for the door, and I would have no way of making nice sharp corners at the edges. Any suggestions?

Also, could I have water run from my pump, t- off to the chiller, reconnect from the chiller back to the main line, and then go to closed loop? Would that put too much back pressure on the chiller? Would that make the overall flow too weak?

 

[LeslieS]

I plan to follow this thread to build the stand support. I am bummed about the number of supports sticking up across the bottom. I wanted this space for storag and that is going to make it a pain. Is there any way that I can eliminate the middle cross supprts?

Thanks Rich for such a good DIY

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

I want it to look like my walls which are matte white painted dry wall, but I think that would be too heavy for the door, and I would have no way of making nice sharp corners at the edges. Any suggestions?

To make straight corner out of dry wall, you can use metal corner strips.

Also, could I have water run from my pump, t- off to the chiller, reconnect from the chiller back to the main line, and then go to closed loop? Would that put too much back pressure on the chiller? Would that make the overall flow too weak?

T off from output of the return pump and connect it to the chiller in take with a ball valve to control amount of flow to the chiller and let the output of the chiller go back to the display then you don't waste any flow.

 

[cali_reef]

Cali, when you saw the peltec chiller would you say is was much less heat than a normal chiller. that was my understanding. It might get warm, but it's not blasting out hot air like a freon chiller.

No hot air blasting, but the whole unit is warm to touch. Standard Chiller cycles on to transfer heat away fairly quickly, the peltec stays on much longer because the heat removal is much slower.

 

[PalmTree]

Hey Leslie.. Nice design you have. I like the flow of water you got going on there. I wouldn't put the chiller above the tank though. Even the small chillers are pretty heavy and I would not trust having something like that over a glass box full of 120 gallons of salt water. I have a JBJ commercial series chiller and it does put out a bit of heat. If you are going to have it close to the window anyways I would place it under the tank and move the air up and out the window.

 

[TimberTDI]

Leslie,

What are the names of the three fish in your picture? I would like to get them for my tank:tongue1:.

Would you be able to post a pic of the actual wall you want to use for the tank? We may be able to get a better understanding.

Steven

 

[LeslieS]

Timber - those are crayola fish...they are very rare, but I may be able to get you one

Here is a picture of the wall - mess and everything. You can see that is has spread around the room and onto both window sills. There is a lot more junk under the day bed. Once the cabinet is complete, anything that doesn't fit inside gets tossed. The canopy is not on the tank. It is the round bump sticking up in the bottom right of the picture. I really hate this canopy because I have to take it off to do any serious work in the tank, and I cannot remove it by myself.

I am still considering all my chiller options. I will weigh it to get the exact weight. I am also going to find out how much a drop in chiller weighs. Then I could use my return pump strictly for flow.

 

[masterswimmer]

Those construction workers sure do have a nice 'view' :biggrin: I want to join their local!

swimmer

 

[fritz]

Leslie, I wouldn't put a skimmer/reactor downstream of the fuge. IME you end up with a collection cup full of pods and a reactor with pods in it. Of all the good things growing in your fuge only a very few will make it to the display. The rest will end up in your skimmer cup.

I'd maybe place the skimmer / reactor where you planned on having the cheato. This will remove particulate matter that can clog up a cheato ball. After that compartment have your cheato compartment followed by your fuge. This way fuge pods are right next to the return pump (express elevator to the display). This setup will also keep your cheato from getting clogged with detritus and thus becoming a nitrate factory.

 

[LeslieS]

Fritz, that is a good idea.

Russ, you're right. The minute the construction guys lay eyes on the tank they stop work and stare

 

[Wingo LEDs]

I think they saw you and thus stop working. :tongue1::Blurp::tongue1:

I am sure when the cabinet is up and that you can hide all the junk, your tank area will look awesome

BTW, r u you thinking of leaning the tank towards the window on the right of the picture or the left of it?

If to the left then I think you may have to make something like a chimney or duct

 

[LeslieS]

I am working out my cabinet construction and I want to order all the boards precut.

Are 2 x 4's really 2 inches by 4 inches?

 

[Wingo LEDs]

I am working out my cabinet construction and I want to order all the boards precut.

Are 2 x 4's really 2 inches by 4 inches?

You have to tell the cutter which side of the line to cut or tell them that you need the exact numbers not 2' minus the saw thickness ....