next year's tank

[LeslieS]

OK, this is still very early stages so be gentle but truthful with your thoughts. I want to tidy up my tank area so I am planning to redo my tank next spring.

I chose spring because it will be easier to keep the temp of the critters in storage buckets stable when the weather is mild.

I have a 6 x 9 foot wall to work with. I want the tank to look like a built in so the cabinet will be finished to look like the rest of the walls in the apartment with minimal doors and seams. I may even hang some pictures on the doors to make them look more like the other walls. Any ventilation in the cabinet needs to be done on the right side end because you will not be able to see that from most places in my apartment.

I would like to keep the display size similar to my current 120.

I am trying to use a standard size tank to keep costs down.

I am considering a drop in chiller, but also like the new silent ones that also can act as heaters.

So far, I am just working out general placement for items...

The first picture is the top view showing the direction of water flow through the tank.

The second view is the front.

For now I am keeping my current lights so I have already filled them in. As I figure everything else out, I will add plumbing, etc....

Thanks for taking the time to look and post any ideas that you have!!!:goldfish2

 

[NYreefNoob]

tank

well with giving yourself enough time you should be able to come up with a final plan you will be happy with, few questions. tank is in a apartment ? or a house ? meaning can you cut ceiling ect ? from looking you have a total of how many t5's ? if i can find the link for this one tank it was a 210 i think but it used a closed loop which would help combat heat problems. thinking of using his idea's to redo my tank myself. best of luck and ill see if i can find the link for you.

 

[masterswimmer]

Leslie, nice work so far. I like the idea of almost a year of planning. Should be great once it's finalized.

1 - how is the water flowing back from the 'pump/heater/skimmer chamber to the display? I only see water flowing in one direction with no return.

2 - why are you separating your chaeto and refugium chambers? Most 'fuges have the chaeto in them.

3 - having your chiller above the tank is an interesting concept. It will still generate a lot of heat though. I think it is better than below the tank, but not much better, unless you have an exhaust fan to dissipate the heat.

4 - will the orientation of the tank be the same as it is currently? As a peninsula. If so, how would you vent the lone fan into your wall?

Good first draft. Looking forward to seeing it to fruition.

swimmer

 

[LeslieS]

OK, added some more direction to my picture.

1 - how is the water flowing back from the 'pump/heater/skimmer chamber to the display? I only see water flowing in one direction with no return.

The pump will push water up to the chiller and be t-d off to also return water to the display.

2 - why are you separating your chaeto and refugium chambers? Most 'fuges have the chaeto in them.

I separated my cheato from my fug, because my cheato is currently making my fuge look messy. I am hoping the water going over the over flow will tumble the cheato. Then, the water will be directed through slits in the glass on the way to the fuge and again on the way to the equipment area. Hopefully this will give any bubbles time to disipate.

3 - having your chiller above the tank is an interesting concept. It will still generate a lot of heat though. I think it is better than below the tank, but not much better, unless you have an exhaust fan to dissipate the heat.

4 - will the orientation of the tank be the same as it is currently? As a peninsula. If so, how would you vent the lone fan into your wall?

I love having a two sided tank, but this one will be flush against the wall with the left end exposed so you will see a corner view. Ventilation will occur at the right hand side wall. You won't be able to see it from most of the room so maybe a louvred panel on that end.

tank is in a apartment ? or a house ? meaning can you cut ceiling ect ? from looking you have a total of how many t5's ? if i can find the link for this one tank it was a 210 i think but it used a closed loop which would help combat heat problems.

This is an apartment which is why it needs to look "buit in" rather than be built in

Total t-5 bulbs is 8 39w bulbs

I would love to see other ideas and a closed loop is definitely an option, but how does that save heat?

Thanks for looking. Can't wait to hear more ideasINKEL:

 

[ShaunW]

Are you going to vent the chiller to the outside? since I don't see how putting it on top of the tank with stop it heat export to the environment.

I always wished that I had a chiller with an exhaust tube that I could direct out my chimney during the summer.

 

[jhale]

take a look at the peltech chillers/heaters they generate no heat. a bit more expensive but worth it if you live in an apartment.

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=40_43_205

 

[bad coffee]

A year? who takes a year to build a tank. . . Oh, wait.

Leslie, Looks good so far. how much room do you have over the tank? You could put a fuge up above the main tank and have it drain directly into the display.

why aren't you going with a sump? It will give you more room for everything.

 

[LeslieS]

Are you going to vent the chiller to the outside? since I don't see how putting it on top of the tank with stop it heat export to the environment.

I always wished that I had a chiller with an exhaust tube that I could direct out my chimney during the summer.

take a look at the peltech chillers/heaters they generate no heat. a bit more expensive but worth it if you live in an apartment.

There is a window right next to where the chiller would vent which I am hoping will help a little. I may try the peltech, but I was hoping someone else would get one first

why aren't you going with a sump? It will give you more room for everything.

91 extra gallons isn't enough room for everything? Just kidding. Do you see a reason that the super sized overflow shouldn't work as well as a sump? I don't want to do this and then end up with a big mess!

What I really need is storage. This tank set up seemed simpler than the whole sump thing, and I get tons of storage both below and above the tank.

 

[LeslieS]

OK, here is a picture with the window. The chiller looks like it is floating, but it would be sitting on a small shelf. The window is 6 feet by 8 feet so it is in scale with the tank cabinet.

 

[masterswimmer]

I'm confused why you want to dedicate 30" x 24" x 30" to your fuge, chaeto, equipment space within your display tank. This can all be placed into a sump below and have all that space as display space.

 

[jhale]

the idea is to remove the sump and any chance of flooding in an apartment.

 

[masterswimmer]

the idea is to remove the sump and any chance of flooding in an apartment.

My sump doesn't flood. Done properly there should be no worries of a flooded sump. IMO it's an easy project.

 

[cali_reef]

Freon compressor chillers are heavy, how are you plan to support the weight of the canopy with a chiller in it? The vibration from the compressor may affect tank seams if you plan to rest the canopy on top of the tank as most people do.

The Peltec I have seen in person during last year's MACNA had a HUGE transformer, they are HEAVY and will get warm like the transformer on your laptop.

 

[LeslieS]

Thanks for all of your input everyone. This is really helping me work everything out.

I'm confused why you want to dedicate 30" x 24" x 30" to your fuge, chaeto, equipment space within your display tank. This can all be placed into a sump below and have all that space as display space.

The display area will stay the same as my current tank which seems just right Yes, the 30 x 24 x 30 space at the end of the display will become a huge overflow unless that would cause a problem with display?

The Peltec I have seen in person during last year's MACNA had a HUGE transformer, they are HEAVY and will get warm like the transformer on your laptop.

Yeah, I thought the heat had to go somewhere....

Freon compressor chillers are heavy, how are you plan to support the weight of the canopy with a chiller in it? The vibration from the compressor may affect tank seams if you plan to rest the canopy on top of the tank as most people do.

I asked Jer who is pretty handy around the house this one. Thanks for bringing it up as I never would have thought of it myself.

The wall is a loat bearing wall. The top area of the cabinet (the canopy)will be hung like cupboards. I can't tell exactly how much the chiller full of water weighs, but I can lift it OK so probably less than 50lbs. If everything is connected to the studs with the proper bolts, would that be OK? Would there be anyway to minimize vibration while still allowing for air circulation?

Also, I forgot to put my ATO in the plan so that would either have to go next to the chiller on the shelf adding additional weight or have its own container in the equipment overflow.

For my next project, I will try to come up with the build plan for the cabinet. For now, here it is with the doors on. I am not certain that is how I want the door seams to look, but having one big door will be too much of a pain. Also, not having it go all the way to the ceiling might look too choppy. In addition if I go all the way to the ceiling, the cabinet can be bolted there as well. As the ceiling is concrete, that should provide some decent support.

 

[LeslieS]

I forgot to put my ATO in the plan

hmmm....if my ATO is above my tank, is all the fresh water going to siphon out into the tank?

 

[Awibrandy]

WOW Leslie, you certainly do have a vivid imagination. Wish I could add to your thoughts, unfortunately that is not a possibility. Just wanted to tell you that I admire your gumption.

 

[bad coffee]

ATO: if your line is submerged into the tank, then it can syphon down into the tank. If it's 1/4" above the top level of your 'sump' then when your pump stops, the syphon will break

 

[NYreefNoob]

tank

the ato will drain even if it the tube isnt in the water. if it has more downward drain of the tube it will continue to siphon water { learnt from experiance. it basically looks like your trying to build a huge aquapod type design to a degree. as for worrying about a flood, as russ said if you design it right that wont be a problem, you can put a float valve on tank to turn return off. and the closed loop system will save heat cause you have no pump in water to warm it, and you can cut back on ph's in the tank which is also less heat

 

[masterswimmer]

Sorry Brett, I have to agree with Rick on this one. As long as the water supply is above the tank, and the tubing runs below the water level in the ATO then it will continue to siphon until the water in the ATO bucket is below the tubing. And from this scenario, it doesn't seem like this will happen, so the ATO bucket will drain completely.

Again, why can't you keep some of this equipment below the tank in the stand? The ATO for instance will work great there.

If you are going to suspend the 'canopy' from the wall studs and ceiling joists, you should be fine with regard to chiller vibration and weight. As long as the canopy is not supported on the tank.

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

Looks like some of us have been forgetful that Lesile has confessed that she may(will?) maintain her tank after couple drinks. HAHAHA:biggrin::shhh:

If you have enough room in the MEGA overflow section, consider putting the ATO reservoir in there as well.


6 x 39W all blue light seems dim for a 30 inch height and 48" length unless you mean no corals there.


LMK when you start to build it. I would like to see it built in the process.