- Location
- Flushing NY 11355
I have been preeching this mounting orientation long time, remember? What a bad attendee who won't listen in a conference. LOL.
Now, I need some of your frags when Tom go pick up. LOL
LEDs - Good, Bad or just another addiction?
- Thread starter pecan2phat
- Start date
I have been preeching this mounting orientation long time, remember? What a bad attendee who won't listen in a conference. LOL.
Now, I need some of your frags when Tom go pick up. LOL
- Location
- Wallingford, CT
I picked up a 3rd module and all 3 are sitting in a closet. They are either for when my 72" H4 Solaris craps out or just backups if I have any problems with any of the LED fixtures that I'm using.
I'm currently running:
2 Pacific Sun Black Python 120W BTEX modules (gen1)
72" PFO Solaris H4 (2nd gen)
36" PFO Solaris I5 (4th gen)
24" PFO Solaris I5 (4th gen)
damn dude sooo many led so PIMP :shhh:
ctxmonitor
Senior Member
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
I guess we know where to look for when we need some spare LEDs, lol.. hahha. Now dont lock your closet, 
AlohaTropics
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- Long Island
Warren,
I think you need to add the Pacsun Special Edition 5W Cree Modules to your collection
- Location
- mays landing , NJ
Hey guys will the new black python 160 wattscree be good enough for a 110 gal?
Sent from my iPhone using Reefs
Sent from my iPhone using Reefs
- Location
- Wallingford, CT
Felix,
SE 5w Crees sounds great in "bigger is better" but would kind of defeat my purpose of decreasing energy consumption
Mori,
How tall is a 110g tank? If more then 24", then yes to the 160w x-plore units.
SE 5w Crees sounds great in "bigger is better" but would kind of defeat my purpose of decreasing energy consumption
Mori,
How tall is a 110g tank? If more then 24", then yes to the 160w x-plore units.
- Location
- Wallingford, CT
Hi Gang,
Yes, I'm driving them at 100% for most of the photo period. I had basically 5 points of 10 minute cloud covers during the day when it was running at 100% and 60 minutes of sunrise/sunset. So in a nutshell, 9 hours of full intensity and 2 hours of ramping intensity for the sunrise/sunset and 50 minutes of 40% intensity during cloud cover.
Today I was playing around with the PAR tables and have changed them out to see how they are.
I'm using 38 points to ramp up and down just blues and then whites with 100% blues on, reverse for sunset. The remaining 2 points, I threw in two cloud covers. Will see how I like it, here's 3 screen shots showing the 40 points and one showing the sunrise/set table. Basically avoiding the programmed sunset/sunrise and using the PAR table to achieve what I want to see visually. Don't know if the 5 minutes for the sunrise/set will work but if not, I'll play around with the PAR table.
- Location
- mays landing , NJ
The height it's 30inch. Will one module doit? Or would I need a master slave 160w?
Sent from my iPad using Reefs
Sent from my iPad using Reefs
- Location
- Wallingford, CT
Gang,
Scrap the first PAR table on post #429.
Mainly because my retinas are still burning with too much blue for too long a time period during the ramping stage, there were also some miscalculation with the times. This is what I amended to:
Still a 120 minute ramp up and down but with gradual whites. Had to lose the cloud cover points so that the begin & end time would work correctly and also had to change the sunset/sunrise to minimal of 1 minute.
8 hours of 100% intensity for whites & blues and 4 hours of steady ramping for total phases of sunrise & sunset.
Mori,
For 30" height, I would recommend the 160W x-plore series and if your tank is 48" in length, then you would need master & slave unit.
One word of advice is that you look into the optional focal optics since your tank is probably only 18" wide. You will not appreciate the 120 degree light spread without the optics.
Scrap the first PAR table on post #429.
Mainly because my retinas are still burning with too much blue for too long a time period during the ramping stage, there were also some miscalculation with the times. This is what I amended to:
Still a 120 minute ramp up and down but with gradual whites. Had to lose the cloud cover points so that the begin & end time would work correctly and also had to change the sunset/sunrise to minimal of 1 minute.
8 hours of 100% intensity for whites & blues and 4 hours of steady ramping for total phases of sunrise & sunset.
Mori,
For 30" height, I would recommend the 160W x-plore series and if your tank is 48" in length, then you would need master & slave unit.
One word of advice is that you look into the optional focal optics since your tank is probably only 18" wide. You will not appreciate the 120 degree light spread without the optics.
looking for some advice.
I have 1 LED fixture from the CMC group buy from bsled.com on my solana 20x20x20 tank.
They are hung 8 inches above water line. 1 head on my frog spawn has melted and i notice that my torch is retracted once the whites come on. All my clove polyps palys and zoas look happy all day no matter what. Acans look great, toadstool hasn't puffed out in over 5 days.
i run 2 powerbrites around 2 hours before the actinic leds come on and everything is extending beautifully during that time[frogspawn and torch] then seem to retract as the day goes on
Im running the blues 8 hours and whites for 5 hours.
i run a skimmer, use ro for topoffs, and do weekly water changes.
should i lower the duration of the lights? I had 20" nep and have had these on the tank for 17 days.
i started with
week 1
6 hour blue and 2 hour white
week 2
8 hour blue and 4 hour white
week 3
8 hour blue and 5 hour white
did i rush it ? help me out.
im not seeing a disaster or anything but i definitely want to prevent it or some advise
I have 1 LED fixture from the CMC group buy from bsled.com on my solana 20x20x20 tank.
They are hung 8 inches above water line. 1 head on my frog spawn has melted and i notice that my torch is retracted once the whites come on. All my clove polyps palys and zoas look happy all day no matter what. Acans look great, toadstool hasn't puffed out in over 5 days.
i run 2 powerbrites around 2 hours before the actinic leds come on and everything is extending beautifully during that time[frogspawn and torch] then seem to retract as the day goes on
Im running the blues 8 hours and whites for 5 hours.
i run a skimmer, use ro for topoffs, and do weekly water changes.
should i lower the duration of the lights? I had 20" nep and have had these on the tank for 17 days.
i started with
week 1
6 hour blue and 2 hour white
week 2
8 hour blue and 4 hour white
week 3
8 hour blue and 5 hour white
did i rush it ? help me out.
im not seeing a disaster or anything but i definitely want to prevent it or some advise
Waren, thanks for the update! Once I finish my install and complette my light ramp up, I will try your settings. Too bad about the cloud cover loss, though if it's variable during the day it's not that big a deal.
The current moonphase setting is pretty cool.
Ideally I would love to see software where you could enter lattitude and longitude and have it auto calc sunrise/sunset with the ability to have occasional cloud cover of differeing intensity (passing cloud to full on thunderstorm).
The current moonphase setting is pretty cool.
Ideally I would love to see software where you could enter lattitude and longitude and have it auto calc sunrise/sunset with the ability to have occasional cloud cover of differeing intensity (passing cloud to full on thunderstorm).
- Location
- Wallingford, CT
cmor,
I do like the schedule for the ramping, it creates a nice effect. You can always lose 4 set points by jumping up 2 set points by 12 minute increments at sunrise and also at sunset. Probably somewhere in the middle so it would be less noticable. You can then use them for mid-day cloud cover.
I've gone back and forth with the moon settings from lunar to manual. Can't decide what I like better. The lunar is nice but I don't like the dark phase, it encompasses to many days and if you set the percent higher to lessen the dark phase then the moon light is too bright. Would have been nice if they were able to only get the blue LEDs to simulate the moon lights.
Jonny,
Usually Frogspawns and Hammers can take a lot of light. But it might be an acclimation thing with yours.
I would bring your whites back down to 3 hours and only increase by 30 minutes a week.
I do like the schedule for the ramping, it creates a nice effect. You can always lose 4 set points by jumping up 2 set points by 12 minute increments at sunrise and also at sunset. Probably somewhere in the middle so it would be less noticable. You can then use them for mid-day cloud cover.
I've gone back and forth with the moon settings from lunar to manual. Can't decide what I like better. The lunar is nice but I don't like the dark phase, it encompasses to many days and if you set the percent higher to lessen the dark phase then the moon light is too bright. Would have been nice if they were able to only get the blue LEDs to simulate the moon lights.
Jonny,
Usually Frogspawns and Hammers can take a lot of light. But it might be an acclimation thing with yours.
I would bring your whites back down to 3 hours and only increase by 30 minutes a week.
The toal darkness freaked me out at first, but that is fact the New Moon phase. It lonly lasts a few days. I have my moonphase set 7%. I think that simulates the tropic intensity about right.
And yes, I can play with the timings and use fewer set points. Shorten the ramp up/down periods. I haven't started playing with those yet.
And yes, I can play with the timings and use fewer set points. Shorten the ramp up/down periods. I haven't started playing with those yet.
rafal07013
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- new jersey
take a look at the dates of the first post over 6 months on Przemek's second generation 120W leds and than last update after 9 months.
http://www.nano-reef.pl/forums.php?m=posts&q=26654&n=last#bottom
it kind of defeats the "myth" of SPS not growing under 1W as well as SPS not growing under LEDs.
but it brings the point that 40 degree focal lenses and overpowering PAR is not always the best way to do. although nobody wants to believe.
http://www.nano-reef.pl/forums.php?m=posts&q=26654&n=last#bottom
it kind of defeats the "myth" of SPS not growing under 1W as well as SPS not growing under LEDs.
but it brings the point that 40 degree focal lenses and overpowering PAR is not always the best way to do. although nobody wants to believe.
- Location
- Wallingford, CT
So a few people have asked me if I had more info on the Ecoxotic Panorama retro in the 12g nano. I recently added a 3rd all blue module so here are some pics of the canopy.
This is a 12g AP nano and basically you need to strip almost everything out of the OEM canopy. I left the fan, the 3 switches and acrylic splash guard intact. I used 1 of the 3 switches to hot wire the fan so that I can use the existing outlet connector that was for the OEM moonlights. This way I can plug the transformer into my Reefkeeper and control the on/off of the fan with the light cycle.
Stripped canopy with just the fan and switches left intact. Since the canopy has oddly placed screw holes for all the OEM reflector, brackets & ballast, you need to create a stable mounting surface. I bought an 4' aluminum strip from Lowes for $5.79 and cut 3 sections for the 3 Panorama strips. Here you see 2 screwed down for fitment purpose:
To get the holes drilled, just use some kind of marking system. I used acrylic paint that I had just to smudge on the screw holes and then carefully laid the cut aluminum strip down to obtain a marking for drilling purposes:
After they are all marked, I drilled the holes on the aluminum strips:
Here's where I hot wired the OEM fan onto the switch that had controlled the OEM moonlights. Purpose of picking that switch is because it is also wired for an external power transformer that was used with the moonlights. Can't use the transformer for the moonlight to power the fan but finding one in my box of crap was easy enough and it also fit the female plug outlet.
Back to the light mounting
Here is how it looks with the drilled aluminum bracket strips screwed down temporarily so I can dry fit the Panorama strips evenly:
Now I use a sharpie to mark where I need to drill the holes to secure the Panorama strips to the aluminum brackets:
So after I took the aluminum strips off to do the final drilling, here they are back on the canopy ready for the Panorama strips to be mounted:
Strips mounted securely to the canopy via the aluminum brackets:
Add optional moonlights for desired taste:
Canopy reassembled:
Photos showing one light on, then two and finally all three:
Three Ecoxotic 1W Panorama LED strips are probably a bit overkill for a 12g nano but I wanted a blue (453nm) module for a few reasons and didn't want to eliminate an existing 8k module.
So what does it cost? Well 3 Panorama modules at $95 each and the DIY bracket another $6 plus if you don't have an old transformer to power the fan, maybe another $15 from radio Shack. If you add moonlights, then it's whatever they cost. The ones I have are lunar controlled so they ran about $75 when I bought them years ago.
This is a 12g AP nano and basically you need to strip almost everything out of the OEM canopy. I left the fan, the 3 switches and acrylic splash guard intact. I used 1 of the 3 switches to hot wire the fan so that I can use the existing outlet connector that was for the OEM moonlights. This way I can plug the transformer into my Reefkeeper and control the on/off of the fan with the light cycle.
Stripped canopy with just the fan and switches left intact. Since the canopy has oddly placed screw holes for all the OEM reflector, brackets & ballast, you need to create a stable mounting surface. I bought an 4' aluminum strip from Lowes for $5.79 and cut 3 sections for the 3 Panorama strips. Here you see 2 screwed down for fitment purpose:
To get the holes drilled, just use some kind of marking system. I used acrylic paint that I had just to smudge on the screw holes and then carefully laid the cut aluminum strip down to obtain a marking for drilling purposes:
After they are all marked, I drilled the holes on the aluminum strips:
Here's where I hot wired the OEM fan onto the switch that had controlled the OEM moonlights. Purpose of picking that switch is because it is also wired for an external power transformer that was used with the moonlights. Can't use the transformer for the moonlight to power the fan but finding one in my box of crap was easy enough and it also fit the female plug outlet.
Back to the light mounting
Here is how it looks with the drilled aluminum bracket strips screwed down temporarily so I can dry fit the Panorama strips evenly:
Now I use a sharpie to mark where I need to drill the holes to secure the Panorama strips to the aluminum brackets:
So after I took the aluminum strips off to do the final drilling, here they are back on the canopy ready for the Panorama strips to be mounted:
Strips mounted securely to the canopy via the aluminum brackets:
Add optional moonlights for desired taste:
Canopy reassembled:
Photos showing one light on, then two and finally all three:
Three Ecoxotic 1W Panorama LED strips are probably a bit overkill for a 12g nano but I wanted a blue (453nm) module for a few reasons and didn't want to eliminate an existing 8k module.
So what does it cost? Well 3 Panorama modules at $95 each and the DIY bracket another $6 plus if you don't have an old transformer to power the fan, maybe another $15 from radio Shack. If you add moonlights, then it's whatever they cost. The ones I have are lunar controlled so they ran about $75 when I bought them years ago.
- Location
- NY
Nice job W. As a matter of fact, those aluminum strips are a nice cheap quasi-heat-sink. How many watts were the transformer you used for the fans, et al?
Russ
Russ
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