just a quick question ... i dont know if this is stupid but what kind of lights do you use? and does it matter how big the tank is? also what kind of salt and sand should i use, another member told me that it is imposible to keep a reef tank in ny because of the already high phosphate levels. i heard i should get metel halids or t 5 lighting what is the best? what do most of you guys use? as for salt i wanted to get it asap so i asked the people at fish town and spent 90 tropic marron but now i am reading people use instant ocean what is the difference?? also i read you have to get test kits i was told salifert were the best is this true? im sorry for all the questions im trying to be pactient just itching to get a tank set up!! even though i still havent found on yet lol
Those aren't stupid questions, but they go back to what we've all been saying - read a couple of books before you dive in. Most books will cover your options for lights in one of the introductory chapters. Personally, I have Power Compacts on my tank as most of the things that I wanted to keep when I initially set up don't need particularly high light. (Now I am considering a switch to MH because I want to keep things that have greater lighting needs, like a clam, an anemone and a couple particular corals).
I use Instant Ocean salt because it is cheap, and if you look at the ingredients on most salt, salt is basically salt. If you are going to sink money into this hobby, there are a lot of better places to do in than on your salt mix.
You definitely must get test kits - to start out, you should get Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Phosphate, Calcium and Alkalinity. The first four are imperative for figuring out when your tank is ready to hold livestock. You can probably get an Ammonia and Nitrite test kit from somone on the board because you basically don't need them once your tank is cycled.
An RO/DI is the best $100.00 investment you'll ever make for your tank. You can get them off of ebay (don't pay the insane amounts through marine depot or a local fish store). They will make keeping your tank nutrient free much easier. You don't want to start with tap water because of the high phosphate levels. My boyfriend (digitalreefer) started his tank with tap water because he didn't really know any better and eventually decided to break the whole thing down and start again because he was having such a problem keeping his phosphates down. Doing that is far more expensive in the long run than just starting with RO/DI water.
Tank size does matter as far as stability, as Leslie said. I have a 29gallon tank, but with my sump I probably have close to 35 gallons of water. I have a chiller, heater and fans to keep my temperature stable, and I do 2.5g water changes 1 to 2 times per week to keep all of my levels stable. I would not go smaller than a 29g tank - nanotanks are far more difficult to take care of.
I second Leslie's comment about a budget. My initial startup cost on a 29g tank was about $1000. That includes skimmer, two pumps, three powerheads, two tanks (29g and 10g sump), wood for stand and canopy, PVC for plumbing, test kits and hydrometer, lights, heater, chiller, activated carbon, phosban, B-ionic 2 part, 2 nets, RO/DI, salt, sand and 37lbs of liverock. I was very lucky in that I picked up a lot of my equipment used from other MR members at less than half of retail price. My electric bill has gone up about $20-$30/mo. due to the electrical uses of my tank not counting the chiller. Since my initial set up, I've probably spent about $400 more on equipment (better pump, better powerheads, phosban reactor, an aquacontroller) and countless dollars on livestock and food for said livestock (thinking about it makes my head hurt, but I would ballpark $160 on fish, $70 on food [including Kent Garlic Extreme], $100 on inverts, and waaaaaaaaay more than I should on coral). But you don't have to stock a lot of livestock right away; you can just do that as you can afford. So, what you really need to take into consideration is what you can spend on your startup costs.
You can always start with a smaller tank and upgrade later if you want. I would recommend investing your money in good equipment so that you CAN do that later. I spent the money and bought decent equipment, so I can basically upgrade to a tank of about 60 gallons without buying anything new except tank, stand, lights and more rock.